I did a search and didnt find anything. Been having issues while in semi tech climbs having only one line and needing to get over say, a 1/2 foot to a foot object, or cliff. Been hiking over it. Usually Stop by popping my front tire on the object, then hopping off. I dont know know what to do after I plant my tire. I could "hop" the bike from that position to rear on the log and off...But I cant do that as far as I know. Any advice/videos/tips? Be much appreciated, been a real sticking point in my progression.
What technique do you use to get over an large object while climbing?
bonez3113
21 - 30 of 30 Posts
Joined
·
6,127 Posts
Pedal like f**k, so you have momentum on your side...
Momentum is a powerful Allie... mmm...
Get your front wheel up/over & then throw you arms+hips forward & you should be up ^^
If there's a roller down the other side, compose yourself & gain your balance & ratchet a couple of times & blaze down the other side :kaching:
'Born to ride!'
Momentum is a powerful Allie... mmm...
Get your front wheel up/over & then throw you arms+hips forward & you should be up ^^
If there's a roller down the other side, compose yourself & gain your balance & ratchet a couple of times & blaze down the other side :kaching:
'Born to ride!'
Watch the second video of the "punch" move as he calls it. Pay attention to what he's calling the explosion, which happens as soon as the front wheel arrives on top of the obstacle. This creates the movement of the rear wheel up and over. Basically, the hop or energy burst happens from the front wheel up position just like a regular American bunny hop, but you have both wheels supported when you do it. Timing is important and the faster you go the quicker the things all have to happen.
Joined
·
2,477 Posts
If you're riding flat pedals, try tightening your grip on your bars a bit. This increases the "pressure" against your foot/pedal contact. Sounds strange, but it works.
The ability to lift your back wheel with your feet is a trick unto itself. Practice by rolling at a medium pace, lean over your stem and lightly unweight your back wheel while at the same time sort of curling your feet on your pedals and lifting up. There's a dynamic to this action that translates directly in to bunnyhops, and is key to getting your back wheel predictably off the ground.
Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk
The ability to lift your back wheel with your feet is a trick unto itself. Practice by rolling at a medium pace, lean over your stem and lightly unweight your back wheel while at the same time sort of curling your feet on your pedals and lifting up. There's a dynamic to this action that translates directly in to bunnyhops, and is key to getting your back wheel predictably off the ground.
Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk
Joined
·
10,106 Posts
The whole thing is really just a bunny hop, but timed different. Sort of.
I built some very small wooden "features" in my backyard. Just gotta practice. I got all the motions down, and I can bunny hop like no ones business... still struggle like crazy pulling my bike up onto ledges/rocks/tables. Its hard!
That jeff lenosky video is pretty crazy. He makes it look so easy!
I built some very small wooden "features" in my backyard. Just gotta practice. I got all the motions down, and I can bunny hop like no ones business... still struggle like crazy pulling my bike up onto ledges/rocks/tables. Its hard!
That jeff lenosky video is pretty crazy. He makes it look so easy!
Joined
·
326 Posts
Once you get onto larger obstacles you will make it very hard if you put your front wheel on top of the obstacle.
As I explained above, you want your front wheel to hit the top corner on the vertical, not on the flat horizontal.
The movement is similar. But most related to a hop while on your back wheel. The difference looks subtle. But is quite different because of the dynamics.
One has your front wheel in a static position, and the other uses the momentum of your front wheel still rising.
Joined
·
1,510 Posts
Try this and apply / adjust as needed.
Find an isolated strip of road w/ sidewalk. Parking lot, bike shop etc. Coast off of the curbing onto the road, then - work up to coasting and shifting body weight until you have both wheels landing on the roadway equally.
Small shift forward to propel the bike, then - full arm extension and moving hips behind the saddle to maintain momentum and also keep the bike level.
Next - while seated coast up to the same curbing and instead find a gear combination which makes the bike want to snap forward and become lighter on the front. Use this leading-foot application of crank input to keep the bike level upon landing.
Once the ability of the crankset used in partial rotation as a correction-device as opposed to an acceleration enabler is adjusted-to you will appreciate it and keeping your body mass over the bike center as an enabler of propulsion.
Find an isolated strip of road w/ sidewalk. Parking lot, bike shop etc. Coast off of the curbing onto the road, then - work up to coasting and shifting body weight until you have both wheels landing on the roadway equally.
Small shift forward to propel the bike, then - full arm extension and moving hips behind the saddle to maintain momentum and also keep the bike level.
Next - while seated coast up to the same curbing and instead find a gear combination which makes the bike want to snap forward and become lighter on the front. Use this leading-foot application of crank input to keep the bike level upon landing.
Once the ability of the crankset used in partial rotation as a correction-device as opposed to an acceleration enabler is adjusted-to you will appreciate it and keeping your body mass over the bike center as an enabler of propulsion.
Joined
·
355 Posts
Yep. That's all I do. Its all about shifting your weight as needed, while maintaining balance and momentum.
Joined
·
777 Posts
Do these drills put any added strain on tires/tubes?
21 - 30 of 30 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
