I've just posted a review of the new SR Suntour XCR Air fork redesigned for 2016 at Product Review: 2016 SR Suntour XCR Air 24" Fork ? DIRT MERCHANT BIKES
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Review of the new 2016 SR Suntour XCR Air 24" Fork
Spectre
81 - 100 of 102 Posts
Hi all - thanks for the feedback. I wish I posted this before cutting the v-brake posts I could get a chance of a warranty replacement:madmax:
However the hub spacing is now correct, and the stiction is not getting worse after tightening the QR. (the lowers were getting squeezed by a couple of mm before the hub adjustment).
The stiction is also evident when the wheel is not installed, to point that the fork has the tendency to stay partially compressed after the load is released.
The setup pressure currently is very low (my 7yo kid weighs below 25kg) and therefore the stiction is relatively more apparent, but during normal use the fork has zero small bumps compliance.... very disappointing
However the hub spacing is now correct, and the stiction is not getting worse after tightening the QR. (the lowers were getting squeezed by a couple of mm before the hub adjustment).
The stiction is also evident when the wheel is not installed, to point that the fork has the tendency to stay partially compressed after the load is released.
The setup pressure currently is very low (my 7yo kid weighs below 25kg) and therefore the stiction is relatively more apparent, but during normal use the fork has zero small bumps compliance.... very disappointing
I didn't weigh my kid lately but he's still somewhere under 25kg and that's 2 years into the fork. His buddy is really small, I doubt he weighs 20kg... but the fork works fine for both of them - I couldn't tell you the pressures... its gotten a bit higher in 2yrs but its still so low as to not be reliably measured on a shock pump... Yes sticktion is more apparent than on my Pikes at XXX psi and my 70kg but it's way better than on the unmodified SID though technically I think that more the damping/rebound not sticktion being designed to work against adult pressures.
I'm wondering if you perhaps introduced the problem here ??? (I just took out the bolts... the extra Alloy can't weigh much but heat/something during the process - not helpful now it's done but???)
anyway ... out of all the crap that's available for kids bikes the reason I'd defend the F1rst is because its the one thing really exceeded my low expectations....
Agree with Steve. Did you test out the fork, or do you remember how it felt before you cut the posts? The bushings are going to be close to the post area. I think that it's definitely possible that you could have altered the lowers a tiny bit by doing that.
It's a bummer, sorry man.
You could reach out to RST and see if you could get a set of lowers to replace and also see if that corrects the problem. If it does, it's most likely that it was the cutting that caused it the stiction. If it doesn't, you are due for a warranty replacement and a credit on your lowers purchase.
Just a thought, not sure if they'd be game for it.
It's a bummer, sorry man.
You could reach out to RST and see if you could get a set of lowers to replace and also see if that corrects the problem. If it does, it's most likely that it was the cutting that caused it the stiction. If it doesn't, you are due for a warranty replacement and a credit on your lowers purchase.
Just a thought, not sure if they'd be game for it.
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1,212 Posts
Try some Maxima SC1 on the stanchions, might help. That said after checking the pics, those bosses are stupid long. However there's so much material there I doubt the minimal heat is the culprit. But regardless its time to strip the fork down and get medieval on it.
I dunno Smoking. He's saying that the stanchions are staying stuck down in some instances.
I guess you have a point that stripping it and throwing the idea book at it isn't going to hurt anything anymore than has been...save for scratching things up and just generally buggering things up. (Ausable, don't screw things up more
)
I'd still see if getting a new set of lowers from RST is a possibility. If it's possible and not too expensive, relative to a new fork, why not give it a go to see if that's the problem.
As an aside, and no insult meant to Ausable...I wouldn't be hacking the brake posts off of any fork in order to gain an aesthetic look. I can't imagine that looking clean.
I guess you have a point that stripping it and throwing the idea book at it isn't going to hurt anything anymore than has been...save for scratching things up and just generally buggering things up. (Ausable, don't screw things up more
)I'd still see if getting a new set of lowers from RST is a possibility. If it's possible and not too expensive, relative to a new fork, why not give it a go to see if that's the problem.
As an aside, and no insult meant to Ausable...I wouldn't be hacking the brake posts off of any fork in order to gain an aesthetic look. I can't imagine that looking clean.
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1,212 Posts
I'd imagine that getting replacement lowers on a very boutique fork will not be cheap. I'd just deal with it and refocus in a year or two when he comes back to make the what fits my kid now thread, ie. 26er or higher.
Hi all, thanks again for all the suggestions.
I can confirm that the stiction was there since day one, I was hoping it would get better after some rides, but this didn't happen.
Just to resume the different checkpoints:
0) stiction evient from day one with or without wheel installed. Originally, getting worse when the wheel was installed.
1) Fine tuned the hub spacing - slight improvement when the QR is tightened.
2)Added 15w40 oil in the lowers little or no effect (I added a very small quantity - 5cc just to be on the safe side. I will try to add more and keep the fork upside down for some time to check for improvements.
3)While I wasa adding oil in the lowers I verified that the (unpressured) air spring and the damper cartrige were moving smoothly-
4) Lubricated the stanchions, no evident improvement.
I think that the last detail to be checked is that the stanchions are paralled and that the stanchion spacing is the same as the lowers spacing.
If that is the case, I will try to check if the bushing are correctly seated in the lowers.
And yes the magnesium brake posts weighed like 7 grams each .... really not worth the effort..... but the fork definitely looks better now
I can confirm that the stiction was there since day one, I was hoping it would get better after some rides, but this didn't happen.
Just to resume the different checkpoints:
0) stiction evient from day one with or without wheel installed. Originally, getting worse when the wheel was installed.
1) Fine tuned the hub spacing - slight improvement when the QR is tightened.
2)Added 15w40 oil in the lowers little or no effect (I added a very small quantity - 5cc just to be on the safe side. I will try to add more and keep the fork upside down for some time to check for improvements.
3)While I wasa adding oil in the lowers I verified that the (unpressured) air spring and the damper cartrige were moving smoothly-
4) Lubricated the stanchions, no evident improvement.
I think that the last detail to be checked is that the stanchions are paralled and that the stanchion spacing is the same as the lowers spacing.
If that is the case, I will try to check if the bushing are correctly seated in the lowers.
And yes the magnesium brake posts weighed like 7 grams each .... really not worth the effort..... but the fork definitely looks better now
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1,212 Posts
What kind of oil did you use? 15w40 is usually an engine oil right? Also, I would use a lighter weight fork oil like 10w or slightly lower like srams 7wt.
Bit of a shame you'd cut them as a warranty return would have been better but I'd probably have done the same... you'll obviously find it difficult to insist it was there from the beginning now if RST want to play that way... but it's still worth a punt..
I understand why.. after all we all cut steerer tubes with the expectation the fork is going to free up... but it is going rely a bit more on their good nature after cutting off the mounts.
It does sound like you got a bad fork... but hoped it would free up.. hopefully its something you can fix though.
bike discount are selling at an all time slow in Euro's at the moment if you felt so inclined...
I understand why.. after all we all cut steerer tubes with the expectation the fork is going to free up... but it is going rely a bit more on their good nature after cutting off the mounts.
It does sound like you got a bad fork... but hoped it would free up.. hopefully its something you can fix though.
bike discount are selling at an all time slow in Euro's at the moment if you felt so inclined...
Hi All, I am based in Italy and the fork came fitted on Islabike creig24 I purchesed from the UK therefore any warranty work would have been complex anyway....
However: I am confident that the air cartridge and damper work OK so it should be something fixable.
Hopefully the friction comes from very tight bushing that I could ream for proper tolerance. I will take the fork apart in the next few days and post an update.
Thanks again
Fab
However: I am confident that the air cartridge and damper work OK so it should be something fixable.
Hopefully the friction comes from very tight bushing that I could ream for proper tolerance. I will take the fork apart in the next few days and post an update.
Thanks again
Fab
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1,212 Posts
What oil did you use?
Partial update - yesterday I found some time to take the fork apart; it seems that the bushings are *extremely* tight; this is something I can fix - i believe - using some emery paper wrapped around a tube or something like that.
I will figure out something tonight - will keep you posted
Fab
I will figure out something tonight - will keep you posted
Fab
Just logging back in here, but it seems no one else has chimed in to recommend against this.
I would advise against this Ausable. Why don't you try reaching out to RST for new lowers or bushings? I think you are going to fubar the things up with that approach.
I kinda get it .... its not like its a $800 RS.... and the history is all a bit complex.
I know I had a Reverb that came on a used bike I bought... It went the way of Reverbs (specifically they really don't seem to like our weather) and after messing with the thing, investing in the bleed kit separately... etc. I looked at getting the post serviced, changing the barb and hose (which was maybe part of the problem) The bushings and keys needed replacing... all in all such and figured I could buy a brand new one for not much more or probably less. It all seemed like either fix what I'd got myself or just replace it.
Then I figured why get another and being XMAS and my mom wanting to know what to buy me I just went for a maintenance free cable operated one.
^I think it might be too early and I am in need of more coffee...'cannot compute'
No, you're right in that it's not an $800 fork...but it's going to be a $200 piece of scrap metal in a jiffy at this rate.
Emory paper in bushings doesn't sound like an approach that I would ever exercise.
One, it's not repeatable to a tolerance that's necessary.
Two, that tolerance that's necessary is more than likely not going to be met on the first bushing, let alone the second one. (ie., one is going to be even sloppier than the other.)
Three, the finish left on the bushings is going to be a relatively rough one.
Four, have fun getting the sharpened grit that will be left in the lowers out. Don't miss a single bit of it when you clean them.
Either keep the thing for parts and get another one or reach out to RST to see if another solution could be made. The wrong path was started down when the posts got hacked off in the name of enduro aesthetics. Now we're just adding insult to injury. Give up. Get another one, or buy a Snyper.
Next posts are going to be that despite the bushings having a sloppy knock to them, the stroke is going to feel 'un-smooth'.
No, you're right in that it's not an $800 fork...but it's going to be a $200 piece of scrap metal in a jiffy at this rate.
Emory paper in bushings doesn't sound like an approach that I would ever exercise.
One, it's not repeatable to a tolerance that's necessary.
Two, that tolerance that's necessary is more than likely not going to be met on the first bushing, let alone the second one. (ie., one is going to be even sloppier than the other.)
Three, the finish left on the bushings is going to be a relatively rough one.
Four, have fun getting the sharpened grit that will be left in the lowers out. Don't miss a single bit of it when you clean them.
Either keep the thing for parts and get another one or reach out to RST to see if another solution could be made. The wrong path was started down when the posts got hacked off in the name of enduro aesthetics. Now we're just adding insult to injury. Give up. Get another one, or buy a Snyper.
Next posts are going to be that despite the bushings having a sloppy knock to them, the stroke is going to feel 'un-smooth'.
I'm with ya and you're right about the probably next post....
If I was the OP I'd be getting a replacement from Bike Discount before they sell out...
https://www.bike-discount.de/it/com...comprare/f1rst-air-24-mtb-suspension-fork-51499?currency=1&delivery_country=190
as I don't have any import restrictions and $200 vs lost riding time I'd be cutting losses.
Delivery from Germany is
spese di spedizione 7.95 € small items and
Merce voluminosa 27.95 € large items ... not sure
I'd not be holding out on RST Europe though ... but anyway they do give a phone number.
RST SUSPENSION EUROPE:
Hofenerstr. 114, D-70372
Stuttgart, Germany
+49 (0) 711.2588.221
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