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Go order 2 derailleur hangers. One to swap out this one. And one for the next time he lays it down. I think they're about $12. Which is cheaper than the alternative. Have a bike shop re-align the existing one for $20-30. Hangers can be straightened 1-2x before they break. Depending upon how badly they are bent. Yours may be twisted slighlty and that will lead to chain deflection.

The Zee (Free Ride) derailleur is a good option and it's mid cage. It will work. I think it's probably the cheapest with a clutch. Unless you want to temp fate by mixing brands with a SRAM GX.
Actually I did buy an extra hanger with the bike. I just eye balled it and it seems like the cage arms themselves might be bent, and not the hanger. I will switch the hanger out and see if that works before I buy anything else.
 
I’ve seen zero chain drops so far. The bike needed some adjustments out of the box though. Shifting was already pretty good, but all the bearings ran too tight.
The rims do work fine tubeless, even with the much lighter Mow Joe tires I used. Great improvement for the little guy as it seems :)
What I didn’t like was how the shifter indicator blocks the adjustment of the brake levers. I would’ve loved to move them further inside.
So far, the bike sits at 8.9kg, including pedals, with some minor changes (tires, tubeless, bottom bracket & shorter stem).
It’s climbing really well and my son wants to ride it all the time. He didn’t look back to his older bike once.


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What's the point? Honestly. 72 degrees used to be a regular HTA for hardtails as far as I'm aware.

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I guess some of it depends on how buff the downhill runs your kid is riding. My 5yr was DEFINITELY saved from going over the bars more than few times when sessioning drops and hitting some gap jumps. Kids have poor form and even if they don't, they get tired and screw it up sometimes. Having a more forgiving HTA saves a crash which spare their confidence too so they can keep pushing it.

Also consider their small wheel size man. 20in wheel gets hung up real easy on some of the blues and blacks we run. Wheel size makes it even worse. To think that a 72d would be an ideal mountain bike for a kid riding real adult trails is what keeps kids bikes from evolving beyond just simple sit and pedal trail bikes. ER trips are expensive, plus there is hardly any downside to a modern Geo with 68d HTA so why not?
 
^^Maybe he needs a dropper Svinyard? LOL! Just kidding.


Anyway, if accuracy means anything, I highly doubt that the head tube is actually 72 degrees.

My sons MX24 had the spec sheet saying that the HA was 66 degrees, which was pure unicorn flatulence. I could tell from the pic of it on the screen that it wasn't 66 degrees. Once in hand, I measured it and it was more like 70.

The geo sheets on Orbea's site are dubious at best.
 
Well, I guess I wouldn’t want my kids to ride larger drops or gaps anyhow.
My eldest son even got along with a Specialized Hotrock back in the days (he rides everything now with his RM Altitude).



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I got the spawn cranks with the 110mm bb. It is much better now, but I am not happy with how sloppy the shifting is and how close the derailleur gets to the wheel, etc. in the low gear. Yes, it was somewhat bent from crashing and laying it down, but even before that and after fixing it, it is not the best.
I don't know if this helps, but the original poster who went with the Spawn cranks with the 110mm bb had also replaced the Spawn 32t chainring with the Snail 30t narrow-wide ring that is bit more inset when installed (there are stand-offs on the chainring). That's what I did also and so far have no troubles with shifting.

BTW, for anyone keeping the original bottom bracket, you may want to remove it and make sure both sides are well greased. I couldn't remove mine so had my bike shop do it and they had to hammer it to get it to finally free it up and unscrew. The found that only one side had been greased so it had already seized up. Destroyed the BB but no matter as the $20 Shimano UN55 I was putting in is so much better anyway. Shoddy installation by Orbea there!
 
BTW, for anyone keeping the original bottom bracket, you may want to remove it and make sure both sides are well greased. I couldn't remove mine so had my bike shop do it and they had to hammer it to get it to finally free it up and unscrew. The found that only one side had been greased so it had already seized up. Destroyed the BB but no matter as the $20 Shimano UN55 I was putting in is so much better anyway. Shoddy installation by Orbea there!
That's probably good advice for any new bike! Indeed not just the BB but I'd strip down anything came pre-assembled on a new bike... there are lots of parts and it's easy for any of them to be mis fitted or dry assembled...

eg. you might find the headset is not properly fitted and you'd not notice until later then find it harder to get a warranty replacement etc. ... and forks/shock can need oil replacement if they were sitting in stock etc.

Obviously the same applies to a used bike except the warranty bit!
This isn't specific to kids bikes or even complete bikes... I've had brand new wheel sets I had to rebuild... etc. I got a set of pedals last year... and 1st ride one developed a squeak and click... stripped it down and regreased...and its been working perfectly ever since. In this case I think it was simply not correctly tightened... but basically I stopped being surprised by shoddy assembly...

However, regarding the actual BB.... a friend and I rebuilt a old and abused MX24.
I had a spare UN55 sat around... so we pulled the BB even though it was working perfectly. (and it was about the only thing on the bike that was but the whole used bike cost about the same as a scent tire so ..... )

We weighed the 2 BB's are I was pretty amazed it weighed significantly less than a UN55... (and I almost always recommend switching whatever BB on kids square taper for an UN55) ....
 
I had the same issue with the BB removal, and it definitely stripped some of the splines on the old bb and may have deformed the threaded area also. Basically it involved me putting my foot on the wrench and jumping up and down to get it off. I went with the UN55 as well. Everything has been pretty good since I put the cranks on, but the chainline does look like it would be a bit better further to the center, so I will look into the snail ring. Thanks!.
 
I had the same issue with the BB removal, and it definitely stripped some of the splines on the old bb and may have deformed the threaded area also.
Was this new straight from the shop ?

If it was I'd have had it straight back in...

I'd still check on any new bike anyway because once you used it your going to struggle proving it wasn't you.

Two sounds less like co-incidence and from memory the UK one I removed didn't have any issues. Sadly this sort of thing seems increasing almost regardless of manufacturer.

Much as I'd want to go straight out I'd strip down any new bike as I just don't trust the modern assembly processes. I did see a video that Canyon are using a digital torque wrench now and record every bolt on a bike BEFORE shipping and who assembled and checked that specific bolt. Although they are direct sales it might be they have discovered what the others should be doing ... as I can't see them doing this unless they were getting a lot of returns.

For Orbea they probably have some post import - pre-shipping to shops assembly where stuff like this gets short-cut???
 
He had been on it a couple months and I didn't check the BB when I first got it. I would've brought it into the shop, but they immediately went out of business after I got the bike.
Annoying .... though at least you saved it!
I really don't trust any of these modern (super low budget) assembly processes.
I've had wheels, pedals etc. all come half-properly assembled despite the manufacturing being excellent.

Over here (in the EU) there is a different import duty for bikes (20%) vs bike parts (7%) so a huge incentive to assemble in the EU to save a few percentages.
(Not sure how your import duty is structured)

This (IMHO) leads to manufacturers getting some factory assembly of frame and parts (and saves 13% import duty) but obviously it's then done on a super-cheap budget.

It's really a shame when otherwise excellent bikes and good components are then let down on the pre-assembly. Missing grease and not being tightened to the correct torque are (I believe) consequences of shaving a few percent off the cost.

That said ... at least you can disassemble and reassemble vs the other habit of just speccing cheap and nasty components!

My Sons Cannondale I got end of line heavily discounted but came with nothing properly usable except the frame and forks... the wheels were actually OK but didn't have disk hubs... The frame is truly excellent (though very XC geo).. such a waste.

I did get 6 mo out of the headset ... then just put a "proper one" in when it seized.
Everything else was just trash...

On the other hand the Orbea comes with pretty good spec... (and a nice frame) but presumably let down by in country "cheap as possible" assembly ??? (I'm guessing as the EU ones don't seem to have this problem)... Obviously if the people doing the assembly are not paid much they are not that motivated to do a good job when no-one is checking.
 
It's really a shame when otherwise excellent bikes and good components are then let down on the pre-assembly. Missing grease and not being tightened to the correct torque are (I believe) consequences of shaving a few percent off the cost.

That said ... at least you can disassemble and reassemble vs the other habit of just speccing cheap and nasty components!
Agreed on the assembly. Regarding some part selections though, on the off chance anyone from Orbea ever reads forums like this, please charge a bit more such as $600 list instead of $539 list for the Team Disc model and get the final touches right. On a 20" kid bike, the front ring should be 30t (or 32t at most). Swapping out the Orbea parts for new Spawn cranks, a CNC'd 30t chainring, and a quality bottom bracket set me back $90 but I'd rather have paid that to Orbea to save the hassle.

I splurged $80 more on the really nice Brood Maxtion tubeless tires and that's another place Orbea could bump up the MX kids line to the next level and compete with more expensive offerings, by shipping with better and tubeless ready tires like Spawn is doing.
 
Well, I went ahead and put this ugly thing on, lol. I realigned the hanger and it is shifting great now (it was way off). My son just likes to crash his bike a lot. You might be able to see the scrapes on the derailleur in the photo. Seriously, he watches videos on YouTube and then wants to recreate the crashes. Or else he will be racing his 3 yo brother around and around the loop with a little jump ramp in our yard trying to take the turns as fast as possible. Once he gets on the trail he is fine, but I am going to see if this will keep the derailleur safe in the yard. I will update this thread if it F's up the dropouts or something!

 
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