I just upgraded from a cross country hardtail to an aggressive all-mountain hardtail w/ a longer wheelbase and slacker head-angle. I found my new bike to be less stable than my old bike on technical trails, it's easily thrown off-line and super twitchy. Does anyone know whats causing this?:madman:
Why is my new bike so unstable?!
xxx_shredder_xxx
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Or people running plus tires and complaining about how long travel bikes mute the trails.Yes longer wheelbase and slacker HTA mean tight switchbacks require more effort/input/skill, that's the trade off. It often amuses me that those who are always quick to point this out, as though it is an insurmountable problem, are also often those who bag the same bikes for making trails "too easy".
I just went to a bike 3.5" longer than my old one and don't have any issues with tight switchbacks. Sure it feels different but it's not actually a problem.
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Get in an attack position, elbows out.
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Modern mega reach frames also need the steep seat tube so you can actually reach the bar...and help keep weight on the bar to keep front end flop manageable when not going downhill.:cornut:"Modern" bikes definitely need the appropriate cockpit set up to make the most of the handling; shorter stem and wider bars, and subsequently the bike needs to be the right fit to allow that to happen. [obviously] they also require a different riding style, and while your new 5010 may not have Pole/Nicolai type numbers it will feel different and will take some getting used to.
Despite what some people still seem to proclaim, modern geo with longer front end an steeper STA actually puts the rider in a better position for climbing, especially on steeper grades, as the weight is further forward and centred between the axles rather than hanging out over the back end as with the classic ≤73* STA + setback post type set up. Yes longer wheelbase and slacker HTA mean tight switchbacks require more effort/input/skill, that's the trade off. It often amuses me that those who are always quick to point this out, as though it is an insurmountable problem, are also often those who bag the same bikes for making trails "too easy".
I have your exact bike and can tell you that the bar stem combo on this bike is crucial. If you don’t have enough of your weight on the front end and the bike is has terrible handling. Long story short I tried a short stem with short 711mm bars and the handling was absoluetly horrible. I went to 750mm bars and an 80mm stem and it begs to carve turns. I am certain I could go with wider bars and shorten the stem up more but I like it the way it is. I use the bike for everything from dirt jumping to all day rides and it can handle it. Compared to today’s geo the v1 geo is almost more xc then am. If you get it set up for you it will do what you need.
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80mm? Isn't that longer than the original?
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Was this for me or the OP? I'm the 5010. OP what are you on?
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Modern geo and 80mm stem dont exactly fit in the good advice category. Your bike to small!
Pig, I have a 27.5" and a 26" just like you do. The 27.5" with modern geo does great up hills, front tire hardly ever rises up. This appears to be like what another poster on this thread said: longer bike = rider and weight more centered and not all in the back. The 26" with older geo and tighter frame climbs WORSE, front tire often will wheelie and I usually have to stop and walk the bike up from that point. I'm almost tempted to do a crazy thing and put a front hub motor on the front wheel to help with stabilization and traction up hills (and yes I know it would kill handling). But I don't want to risk the dropouts snapping under torque.
What tips are there to help a bike stop the wheelies uphill, besides leaning forward?
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Ehh, leaning forwards works for me?
I don't need to lean forward at all on the 27.5" unless it's a very slow crawl in the granny gear. I'm not sure why everyone says smaller tighter 26" bikes climb better, they sure don't seem like it.
1st try moving the saddle forward where it bolts to the seat post, this helps seated climbing. It helps as long as your knees don't start hitting the bars. A longer stem will get you forward as well, but that limits how far you can move behind the saddle when the going gets going.
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Tip to taint.
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Wow, that's a lot of bullsh!t. Being centered and more inside the bike is great for just pedaling moderate inclines or steeper climbs with a fair amount of traction, and they monster truck up anything that allows you to sit and spin. That does not always translate to situations that require weight shifts to maintain traction and tight lines. Switchbacks are more challenging, but obviously not insurmountable. It's holding a tight line on a climb or through tight and twisty singletrack that the modern geometry struggles with. Not impossible, just not as nimble and intuitive as shorter, steeper geo. They do make easy work of straights and high speed sections, though. Different challenges for different riders in different situations. Of course, you obviously know what is best for everybody in all situations, which just so happens to be your preference, so I'll just throw in my two cents and take my 27 years of mountain biking experience with me back to my cave."Modern" bikes definitely need the appropriate cockpit set up to make the most of the handling; shorter stem and wider bars, and subsequently the bike needs to be the right fit to allow that to happen. [obviously] they also require a different riding style, and while your new 5010 may not have Pole/Nicolai type numbers it will feel different and will take some getting used to.
Despite what some people still seem to proclaim, modern geo with longer front end an steeper STA actually puts the rider in a better position for climbing, especially on steeper grades, as the weight is further forward and centred between the axles rather than hanging out over the back end as with the classic ≤73* STA + setback post type set up. Yes longer wheelbase and slacker HTA mean tight switchbacks require more effort/input/skill, that's the trade off. It often amuses me that those who are always quick to point this out, as though it is an insurmountable problem, are also often those who bag the same bikes for making trails "too easy".
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Funny that. It works for me, too!
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Thanks for the advice, I'll try moving my saddle forward and getting a shorter stem.
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Amen."Modern" bikes definitely need the appropriate cockpit set up to make the most of the handling; shorter stem and wider bars, and subsequently the bike needs to be the right fit to allow that to happen. [obviously] they also require a different riding style, and while your new 5010 may not have Pole/Nicolai type numbers it will feel different and will take some getting used to.
Despite what some people still seem to proclaim, modern geo with longer front end an steeper STA actually puts the rider in a better position for climbing, especially on steeper grades, as the weight is further forward and centred between the axles rather than hanging out over the back end as with the classic ≤73* STA + setback post type set up. Yes longer wheelbase and slacker HTA mean tight switchbacks require more effort/input/skill, that's the trade off. It often amuses me that those who are always quick to point this out, as though it is an insurmountable problem, are also often those who bag the same bikes for making trails "too easy".
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