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And of course some of the bikes are terribly abused, but some of the bikes are breaking and snapping with small riders taking small or moderate jumps that should in no way present a challenge for a well made modern bicycle. I'm seeing particularly a lot of forks breaking out of head tubes and downtubes breaking away from bottom brackets.

I've always been very sensitive to the build and strength of a bike because I'm very big myself. The only frame that I've ever cracked was a Gemco store bicycle "Le Gran" back in the day. I've never caused frame damage to my Redline bmx, my Specialized or Trek mtbs.

I feel like I'm looking at a bunch of garbage mail order bikes. Stories and opinions anyone?
 
I'm a big guy and I've broken a lot of frames, some name brand, some not. One particular frame I broke without ever jumping it or doing anything particularly stupid on it. But youtube videos? Here's the thing.

No matter how a good a bike is, how well it's designed, how strong it's made, any material has its limits. So you see a video of a guy (not so big) who has is fork break out of his head tube off a small drop? They didn't show you the dozens of jumps he'd cased before that though, for example. You also need to take into account intended use. If an average size guy has an XC bike, and he's jumping it a lot, hitting drops, etc. you think - that XC bike was designed for racing, so they shaved every gram they could off it to make it a faster climber. So if the company has a warranty, you look at it, and it generally specifies some "intended use" and where XC is involved, that usually doesn't include jumping and hitting drops. You might see the occasional jump or drop on a race course, but not lines of dirt jumps and big doubles and stuff, not bike parks. But people do that stuff on XC bikes, then they wonder why they break. It's not what the manufacturer intended. XC bikes, 20 years ago were something different than they are now in terms of what you could get away with. I think in general they were stronger, because there were less options. You either had an XC bike, which was something you pedaled up hills, or you had a downhill bike, which was not something you pedaled up hills.

I've got quite a list of destroyed frames behind me. Some of them from manufacturers defects (yes, that happens too) and some of them because the cheap AL frame was never meant to catch my clyde hide coming off a 3 foot drop to flat. Or worse. Either way, to me how a frame will hold it is an important part of my purchase considerations, as is the warranty, and the manufacturer's reputation for standing behind it. But I don't jump my XC bikes, because that wasn't what I bought them to do. And I don't do slope style on my trail bikes. Lots of that stuff you see breaking? It's been doing stuff it was never intended to do.
 
If you're worried, ride hard and are a big guy I'd buy a bike that's designed for the kind of riding you plan on doing and made by a manufacturer who has a track record for building those types of bike.

For example, my full-suspension bike is a Commencal Meta SL. This was designated as a cross-country/Trail bike but the frame design is the same as the Commencal free-ride and down-hill bikes, but with altered geometry. Commencal have many years in competitive down-hill so hopefully they know how to build a strong frame. For added durability, I also use down-hill rims.

It's common sense really. Buy a bike from a good manufacturer and don't use it for things it was never designed for. If you're a big guy and you jump a lightweight cross-country bike then yeah, it might break.
 
No one is going to be able to compile an sort of list for you. Just check for reviews on bikes that interest you. If the brand is popular and has a good track record, ridiers will talk about it. There might be some lesser-known brands and new brands that won't have that sort of history.

If the price seems too good to be true, it's probably a low quality bike not work your time.
 
The forces on a mountain bike are incredible and yet people want light weight bikes, though focus on that isn't as great as it used to be. Now I am only about 140 lbs but they don't offer different bikes based on rider's weight (sometimes wish they would) so that same frame has to hold up to all these clydes riding as well. I'm not an engineer but the forces a 250 lb rider subjects the frame to compared to what a 140 lb rider subjects it to have got to be much, much greater. And then as mentioned, people riding frames beyond what they were designed for. If the company made them lighter based on proper riding, they'd have to dole out a lot of free warrantee frames as they can't easily prove someone rode it beyond what it was designed for.
 
Easily chalked up to abuse in the vast majority of cases on those youtube fail videos.

Not all abuse is intended use, either. Rider skill is a major factor, and that's what you see a TON of in those youtube fail videos. You see people who lack the necessary skills attempting things WAY outside their capability. Stupidity, in short. More testosterone than sense.

I've pretty much ridden xc bikes for my entire riding life. I haven't had regular access to anything that really warranted a different kind of bike until recently. But I've ridden xc bikes on all sorts of stuff I've had very infrequent access to. Granted, I've tended towards tougher builds on my xc bikes to better handle rougher use. But I'm not tiny at 175lbs, and I don't shy away from chunk. I'm not afraid of air, but I'm well aware of my limits in that department, so I don't get stupid with it. I've never outright broken ANYTHING like you see in fail vids. Never broken a frame, and I've ridden more than one frame for better than a decade. I've broken plenty of components, but most things I'm apt to wear out and replace before they crumble underneath me. I pay attention to my equipment, and if something isn't exactly right, I address it.

And that is the other issue - maintenance. When I worked in shops, I saw so frequently cheap bikes that people would absolutely THRASH and abuse, which never got the slightest bit of TLC until something literally crumbled. If you thrash stuff, you're going to get less service life out of it. So it really pays off to give your stuff TLC so you notice problems before they get you hurt.

Take my recent situation for example. Was prepping for a ride and noticed a broken spoke nipple. Did my ride, but got it fixed before any others broke. A few rides later, found another broken nipple on that same wheel. I know how wheels work and I realized that I had something else going on. Took both wheels in and had them both rebuilt with new spokes and nips. Turned out to be a tough rebuild for the shop for a number of reasons, so it was a good thing that I did it. If I didn't do it now, it was the sort of thing that could have gotten me hurt later. It was a more expensive shop bill than I wanted just before the holidays, and I missed some great snow riding as a result, but better that than the medical bills later.
 
(Sorry this is so long but you wanted opinions lol).

This is a subject I'm really interested in, because I'm experimenting with the minimum amount of bike and upgraded parts that can handle real trails without falling apart (and I want to emphasize not 8-foot jumps, just normal riding). As Harold has said it's normally because the bike has been abused, it was made for fire roads and slow, careful singletrack riding, and then people either ignorantly or deliberately bomb downhill at 30 mph and/or take big jumps with forks that are 60-80mm. And then the $200-400 bike falls apart, go figure. The same thing happens with production cars that go on a real racetrack. Some amateur can drive a $30K Subaru WRX around the track and have fun, but if a professional driver gets in his car and drives it around the track, the car is guaranteed to fall apart with extreme driving. Cheap bikes and cars are not built for professional-grade riding/driving, period.

You may have seen the video where a downhill racer buys a $179 Huffy bike from Walmart and takes it on a series of 8-foot jumps, and it then slowly falls apart. Look, I could stack 2000 lbs of stuff on a plastic storage bin and then see the plastic crack and get crushed, does that prove anything besides the laws of physics? I don't understand the point of some of these videos. OK, the downhill racer is justifying why his own bike is $5000+, but he shouldn't insinuate that everyone needs his bike to do normal riding. That's the key point to all of this: you buy the bike that can handle what you are actually doing with it. Please correct me if I'm wrong but 60-80mm forks are not supposed to be taking 'real' jumps ever, right??? And if they do should anyone be shocked that the frame cracks or the fork fails? Even a run of the mill 100mm Suntour XCT fork probably shouldn't take anything over 2 feet; I certainly don't take real jumps with that fork, I know better than to do that. I guess some others don't. I don't blame some newcomer buying a cheap bike and breaking it taking jumps. I do blame some professionals for pretending that everyone should ride like they do and therefore everyone should buy what they buy.

There are a ton of off-brand bikes that will fall apart under hard riding, but the title of this thread includes 'name-brand bikes', and mentions small or moderate jumps. First off, most mail order bikes are not the same name-brand bikes as the ones mentioned on this website (Giant, Diamondback, Cannondale, Santa Cruz, Specialized, etc.). Most of the brand-name bikes named here are sold at REI at the lowest level (not Walmart), at an LBS, or directly from the manufacturer.

I'll tell my own (pathetic) story about cheap bikes, and then use Giant as an example of their low-end bikes and components. My first mountain bike, Pacific Mountain Hunter weighed 50 lbs and the rear brake was rim. I somehow broke the front disk caliper so I never did a real downhill ride with the bike (over 10 mph). Believe it or not it lasted over 5 years until the rear hub rusted out, maybe 2000 miles on the bike, 95% on pavement. Original price of $360 = light riding = cheap bike that lasted long.

The 2nd bike was a complete POS. Pacific Rook. Really flimsy rim brakes on both ends, 3x6 twist shifters that broke from their cheap plastic mountings. Seat so firm I didn't even want to sit down, ever. That bike started falling apart in three weeks, not 5 years, est 300 miles total. And no hard riding. $125 bike = light riding = cheap bike that fell apart and was a waste of money (and time on the dirt road).

3rd bike was a Walmart special, $150 Kent RCT 27.5". And yes it did fall apart, no derailleur hanger, eventually the rear derailleur hit the spokes, broke in half, and cracked the bottom of the frame. It had a lot of other problems too, but it DID hold up on real trails for about 5 months or 1000 miles until the derailleur issue, believe it or not. Although it was scary because the cheap disk brakes didn't always stop in time going downhill and I'd have to jump off the bike, hopefully land on a bush. But I rode this bike hard and it held up, as hard as that may be to believe. $150 price = relatively harder riding but no jumps = yes something broke, but I got my money's worth first.

Next bike that I still have, Merax Finiss 26", rear axle (freewheel-based) broke after around 500 miles. I didn't know it was broken (wheel was slightly crooked but worked fine) and kept riding the wheel another 500 miles; the QR skewer was holding it on, that skewer bent but thank God didn't break. Have rode it hard but not in the Winter using it as a street bike. $350 bike = some hard use but no jumps, rear axle, front derailleur, bad disk brakes replaced, est. 1500 miles so far. Again I got my money's worth for what I'm doing, light XC trail stuff, that's the key statement.

Next bike $517 SE Bikes 1.0 Big Mountain 27.5". Finally an entry-level 'real' bike. 1200+ miles and ZERO problems. Replaced the chain/cassette due to wear, that has been the only problem. The rear derailleur was replaced because of problems shifting into the highest gear but that was probably due to the bike falling on the derailleur earlier and breaking something internally, not the bike's fault itself. Again no jumps with any significant air more than 2 feet, run of the mill XC, light/moderate trail riding. Totally worth the money.

Now let's look at Giant as an example. I like some of their lower-end bikes, like the Talon3 for around $700. But they deliberately hide the low end ones on their websites. They put the $2-3K ones up front and you have to do a search function for anything under $1K. They put the bikes under "Recreational" Why? They still have freewheels and rim brakes on some of their bikes, like the Revel 2 for $370, 80 mm fork. If you ask me, at least a bike like the Merax Finiss above has the potential for a hydraulic brake upgrade because it has mechanical disks to begin with. For the Revel 2, you are stuck with rim brakes, because the conversion would cost almost as much as the bike itself. So cheap name brand bikes can have crap components too just like the cheap off-brand bikes. The only debate is whether the Giant frame is better than an off-brand Chinese frame.
 
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Watching the broken frames videos one error predominates. Riders under jump an opening and the front wheel hits the edge of the landing area rather than landing on the flat where it is supposed to. This puts an enormous backwards force on the fork and it is not surprising that the fork or frame fails. No one ever said that jumping was safe.
 
I don't blame some newcomer buying a cheap bike and breaking it taking jumps. I do blame some professionals for pretending that everyone should ride like they do and therefore everyone should buy what they buy.
Just wanted to point out, that is exactly what most professionals are paid to do. At least the "Buy what I use" part.
 
I can break anything. The only thing that scares me is bombing dowhill on my carbon roadbike and having the steerer tube break free of the fork. This has happened and has killed people. It's always in the back of my head road riding & I hold back because of it. Never crosses my mind on my mountain bike.
 
Frames breaking is not exclusive to cheap bikes.
I have had 5 big name frames crack, and I don't even really jump. AND I never weighed more than 190#.
The big difference is that the big name mfr. will usually provide a discount on a crash replacement (as they did in one case) or they will warranty it outright (as they did in 3 other cases). Of course, sometimes they will leave you hanging in the wind (as one of them did).

As a kid, I never cracked any of the Huffys I had. The paint flaked off the stressed joints, but they never cracked. I think they were simply too flexy to break.

-F
 
Still using that ramp you built?
Not in ages. I'd rather land on the grass, for obvious reasons, and once the weather turns the grass/ground is wet until spring. You'd just put nice big grooves in the lawn.

To be honest, it's really drop-offs I need to practice. Jumps aren't too bad but I'm hopeless at drop-offs and they feature on most of the more fun trails. Anything over a foot terrifies me.
 
I can break anything. The only thing that scares me is bombing dowhill on my carbon roadbike and having the steerer tube break free of the fork. This has happened and has killed people. It's always in the back of my head road riding & I hold back because of it. Never crosses my mind on my mountain bike.
Yeah...I know of far more nasty stuff happening to people in road bike crashes. I know about an incident like you describe. The dude was in a coma for years and then I stopped hearing anything about him. I think his family had life support turned off. I heard of the incident because I was in the shop one day when the guy's lawyer was in the shop buying up ALL of the shop's old stock of carbon road forks so he could have some destructive testing done on them.

I know of another case where it was a different mechanical failure. Guy was in an aggressive group ride, and got into a sprint. He had a sudden mechanical failure that caused him to go down hard. Some friends of mine were caught up in it and they think it was his chain that went. Guy augured into the asphalt and took out a chunk of the field, sending people sprawling everywhere. There were some nurses and doctors in the group who were on the spot rendering aid and getting emergency crews on the way ASAP. Friend of mine who went down in the wreck said he heard the guy's breath gurgling through the blood on his crushed face. He made it to the hospital, but didn't last long afterwards. Poor maintenance is suspected to be a factor in this one. My friend who was in that wreck didn't ride his bike AT ALL for at least 6 months afterwards, and after that he didn't do any group rides or races for months afterwards (he races cross). This one is one reason I stay away from spirited road group rides. I prefer touring pace type stuff.

Sure, I know of plenty of people who had to go to the hospital after mtb wrecks, but no life threatening injuries. The worst mtb wrecks I know usually involved an underlying health problem, like a heart attack. I'm not talking about the well-publicized pro riders or near-celebrity cases, either (most recent one I know about is Ray Petro of Ray's Indoor MTB Park in Cleveland who is hospitalized from a nasty mtb wreck right now). I'm just talking about wrecks that involved folks in the local riding community. My point being that road wrecks are bad with higher consequences than you'd expect.
 
Cannodale is junk. My friend broke 2 carbon jerkel trail bikes just by using trail riding. He didn't even jumped the bikes.

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Cannondale, cannondale, cannondale....hmm. Never heard of them. There was a brand a couple of years ago that sounded similar, but they had a bad reputation, and I kinda stopped hearing about them. I think they were called....Crackandfail? That sounds right.
 
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