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rickcin

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a FS XC Trek and my lowest gear is 24 Tooth Crank with a 36 tooth cog on the cassette.

I'm guessing this is normal for my bike however. Trail bike would be geared slightly lower?
 
#2 ·
Not necessarily. That's a .67 ratio and probably lower than what most trial bikes come with but a 1x11 with 30T chainring x 11-46 cassette is fairly popular and 30/46 is a .65 ratio.....so it depends. You can always just compare the ratios.
 
#3 ·
Trail or Trial? 24x36 is a normal low gear for MTBs and nearly as low as you could get until recently. You can get a 20t front, but 24x36 is still a granny by any standard.
 
Discussion starter · #4 · (Edited)
jeremy3220 said:
Not necessarily. That's a .67 ratio and probably lower than what most trial bikes come with but a 1x11 with 30T chainring x 11-46 cassette is fairly popular and 30/46 is a .65 ratio.....so it depends. You can always just compare the ratios.
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Guess that makes sense, my bike is a 3 x do I was thinking it's probably a little lower than the new 1 x drives that I have been looking at online.

I just need to improve on my lung capacity in order to stay on the bike and ride. I often get winded and end up off the bike for a break or walking it. Thanks
 
#5 ·
rickcin said:
I just I just need to improve on my lung capacity in order to stay on the bike and ride. I often get winded and end up off the bike for a break or walking it. Thanks
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I'm right there with you. That's been the hardest thing for me to achieve. After a few months since starting mtb my riding skills (former bmxer) far outpace my endurance.
 
#7 · (Edited)
my 2008 3x mtb had 22f 34r, and that was about right. But it also had 26" wheels.
my 2018 bike has 28f 46r, with 27.5"wheels, and that's also approx right.

22/34*26=16.8
28/46*27.5=16.7

If I may give some unsolicited advice, one of the things I like to do is find a medium-steep hill, and literally go up as slow as possible to practice balance. That way, when you meet a long steep hill in real riding, you can turn your power output way down without falling over.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
JackieTreehorn8 said:
If you ride long steep trails in the seat, you might want lower. I was surprised how changing my 24/36 to 22/36 immediately got me faster since I was able to properly spin long steeps.
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Guess that's good, but as others have said I have a Granny Gear so I just need to build my endurance although m really really old! Mountain biking is very strenuous depending on how hard you push yourself. I get winded and then just take a break or walk for a bit and then ride. I give it my all!
 
#9 ·
I rode 24x34 for years. I felt like I could use a little easier. I put a 40t cassette on.

It's useless running 24x40. It's so low you go nowhere and just flail your legs. I swear it burns more energy.

Just keep at it! 24x36 is about as low as you can realistically go.
 
#10 ·
One Pivot said:
I rode 24x34 for years. I felt like I could use a little easier. I put a 40t cassette on.

It's useless running 24x40. It's so low you go nowhere and just flail your legs. I swear it burns more energy.

Just keep at it! 24x36 is about as low as you can realistically go.
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I'm sure someone will crunch numbers but I'm thinking you'd spin less with a 22/36 than a 24/40.
 
#11 ·
rickcin said:
Guess that's good, but as others have said I have a Granny Gear so I just need to build my endurance although m really really old! Mountain biking is very strenuous depending on how hard you push yourself. I get winded and then just take a break or walk for a bit and then ride. I give it my all!
Click to expand...
Have to agree switching to a 22t ring might give you the little extra you need to walk less. And least expensive except you might need to have the crank pulled apart to do that.
 
#13 ·
J.B. Weld said:
They're nearly identical, 24/40 is just very slightly lower. I think it's a very usable gear for many people depending on the situation, still faster than walking even at a moderate cadence.
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Ok yeah thanks JB I figured you'd have the tech info :). I was more so replying to the other post stating that "24/40 is useless" comment and the economics of a $5-8 ring vs a new expanded cassette 10 times that.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
JMac47 said:
Ok yeah thanks JB I figured you'd have the tech info :). I was more so replying to the other post stating that "24/40 is useless" comment and the economics of a $5-8 ring vs a new expanded cassette 10 times that.
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Exactly what they told me in the bike shop, if you need a lower gear we just change out the crank ring.
 
#15 ·
My granny gear on my 29er is 22 x 42. I ride a lot of steep, rocky, loose terrain. I also do a lot of 3-5 hrs rides with a lot of climbing. Having this easy of a bailout gear is nice. The longer I get into the ride, the more I use that granny. I have a 22/36 with 10-42 setup. Its my XC all day sufferfest bike. My AM bike is a Specialized enduro 650b with one by at 26 x 42 granny gear. Of course this bike is about 10 lbs heavier than my XC bike. I would be considered a fairly strong rider by my teammates, etc. Nothing wrong with sit n spin! I'd rather ride my bike than push it.
 
#16 ·
chiva said:
My granny gear on my 29er is 22 x 42.
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That's starting to get there. My granny gear on my 29er with 2.3 inch tires is 17x42. I am running an old school White Industries Limbo Spider for the 17t granny ring. Rings are 17/26/38.

The granny gear on my 26er is 20x42. Rings are 20/29.

Would rather spin than walk, even if it IS at or just above walking speed. Especially on super steep climbs and at high elevation.
 
#17 ·
phoenixbikes said:
That's starting to get there. My granny gear on my 29er with 2.3 inch tires is 17x42. I am running an old school White Industries Limbo Spider for the 17t granny ring. Rings are 17/26/38. (...)
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Can you even spin without falling with that low ratio? I ask this because with my 30x46, sometimes I get the impression that if I spin slower I will fall to the side. But sometimes I would love a lower gear on some stupid long and steep climbs.
 
#18 ·
I'm sorry, but I have to call BS on that gearing or that you ever use it, that's 11.7 gear inches, 22-34 on a 26" bike gives 16.8 gear inches, 26-50 on a 29er gives 15.1 gear inches, just for reference. Please post a video of you actually using said 17-42 gear combo.

phoenixbikes said:
That's starting to get there. My granny gear on my 29er with 2.3 inch tires is 17x42. I am running an old school White Industries Limbo Spider for the 17t granny ring. Rings are 17/26/38. The granny gear on my 26er is 20x42. Rings are 20/29. Would rather spin than walk, even if it IS at or just above walking speed. Especially on super steep climbs and at high elevation.
Click to expand...
 
#19 ·
rickcin said:
Guess that's good, but as others have said I have a Granny Gear so I just need to build my endurance although m really really old! Mountain biking is very strenuous depending on how hard you push yourself. I get winded and then just take a break or walk for a bit and then ride. I give it my all!
Click to expand...
I have 22/36 with 26" bike, that is 0.65 ratio or so.

It is really nice when you have to do lot of mud, roots and rocks when climbing, walking surely is faster, but also very boring compared to slow climbing.

However even after 6 years riding, I find 22/36 being still heavy for me when climbing in such conditions, but what is limiting me is my heart rate, it hardly ever goes above 160 and it has been like that all those 6 years.

I don't have issues when I can spin, but brute force it where it gets old fast, maybe it is the age thing, but also 200lbs in muddy climbs or in snow, that is just asking for trouble if trying the force method.
I can hold 145bpm average for 2 hours though and that is not even very difficult for me, so I would say fitness might not always be the answer, depends from many variables of course and only you know your rides and fitness.

However I will try 0.71 ratio for a while, might limit where I can ride, but it is easy to put smaller chainring if needed, just need to order parts and build everything together.
 
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