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Brake Lever Clicking

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#2 ·
I had the sound cranked and I couldn't hear it at all.

I have a click in my Zee levers....it's clearly coming from the bearing/bushing behind the lever pivot (directly in front of the bar clamp) when released from fully engaged. You can see it....look between the lever and bar, grip side. Mine are new and I figure it's just got to break in....maybe a bit of sticky lube?
 
#4 ·
Well, this is embarrassing...I tried the clip again, seems to only have sound when the mute isn't on! I only turned my speakers volume knob way up before....completely missed the mute button. :blush:

Mine sound exactly the same. If I cycle it quickly it stops then comes back. I don't know exactly what causes it or if it harms anything. Both my F/R levers do it. I'll mess with them tonight and see if I can figure anything out. Dirt? Lube? Mechanical step on the lever 'hook'?
 
#8 ·
escapedturkey said:
Is this something I should be concerned about?
Click to expand...
No. Shimano make very reliable and effective brakes that don't cost a fortune but you can't have everything. Some bits are more cheaply made and loose fitting than might be the case if the brakes were double the price but in my opinion they've got the value/quality balance spot on.

Personally, I wouldn't even bother trying to fix it as out riding you will never notice it.
 
#9 ·
I have the same issue with my shimano slx m675 brake lever. The right lever has that same click noise since it was new. Audible when you're in the garage but when i'm out on trails, my hub is louder so never bother then. No performance degradation whatsoever. Never been bled since new. Brake feels the same since new.
 
#10 ·
That's only happening on lever return. It's the lever hitting the stop. You've never ridden cable brakes obviously. My avid 5 levers on my fat bike are way louder.

TBH I always thought it was completely normal on all brakes when you just take your hand away. If you have a finger covering the brakes while riding it'll never happen during a ride. M615s both did it, stock 447s on my new bike due it, slx I've ridden do it. Haven't had xts yet but my new bikes 447s are being replace with xt probably come fall. May just go new version slx don't know yet.

Don't even worry about it, it's just that the lever itself moves very freely so it "snaps" back to full open, smacking the reach adjustment against the stop.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
 
#11 ·
Have 4 pairs of XT M785, 2 SLX M675 and 3 Deore M615 and never had this issue before, just installed a new set of Deore's for a friend and they had the tick. Upon doing research found it actually was fairly common, upon inspection of the lever, it looks like it's the cam and not exact manufacturing tolerances which allow for it to happen, but does not effect how the brakes work.
 
#12 ·
I had one of two new XT M8000 levers clicking on the extension after pulling the lever. When observing the roller follower in the slot I could see it "jumping" causing the click. By observing both levers I noticed that a spring was not assembled the same in both levers.

I removed the lever and noticed that the torsion spring mounted under the lever was not assembled as it is in the lever that was not clicking. I reassembled the lever and put the spring in the "correct" location by matching the lever that did not exhibit the clicking.

No more clicking and the roller does not jump. It should be noted that the lever seemed to work fine, no performance issues but the click was annoying.

It looks quite easy for this spring to be assembled incorrectly so it is worth checking. Be advised that it is quite a chore to get the spring assembled as it is a mostly blind assembly. I can only assume the factory uses a fixture to do this. It can be done but it is tedious. Be careful to not lose the springs when removing the lever.

Exploded parts view:http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-BL-M8000-3853A.pdf

Remove the cap (#5) on the set screw and then remove the set screw. Then you can use a drift to tap out the lever axle (#2). This allows you to remove the lever and torsion spring.

The spring of interest is seen in this picture.
 
#14 ·
Technically speaking, that's not a torsion spring. If I had to call it something, I'd probably call it a hairpin spring. Torsion means twisting about the longitudinal axis, as in a torsion bar. The usual coil springs that compress along their helical axis are actually torsion springs, though they are usually not referred to as such.
 
#16 ·
No, it's just dumb people ;)

Mr Pig said:
Maybe, but no one likes a smartass ;0)
Lone Rager said:
Technically speaking, that's not a torsion spring. If I had to call it something, I'd probably call it a hairpin spring. Torsion means twisting about the longitudinal axis, as in a torsion bar. The usual coil springs that compress along their helical axis are actually torsion springs, though they are usually not referred to as such.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
#18 · (Edited)
Cleaner said:
I had one of two new XT M8000 levers clicking on the extension after pulling the lever. When observing the roller follower in the slot I could see it "jumping" causing the click. By observing both levers I noticed that a spring was not assembled the same in both levers.

I removed the lever and noticed that the torsion spring mounted under the lever was not assembled as it is in the lever that was not clicking. I reassembled the lever and put the spring in the "correct" location by matching the lever that did not exhibit the clicking.

No more clicking and the roller does not jump. It should be noted that the lever seemed to work fine, no performance issues but the click was annoying.

It looks quite easy for this spring to be assembled incorrectly so it is worth checking. Be advised that it is quite a chore to get the spring assembled as it is a mostly blind assembly. I can only assume the factory uses a fixture to do this. It can be done but it is tedious. Be careful to not lose the springs when removing the lever.

Exploded parts view:http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-BL-M8000-3853A.pdf

Remove the cap (#5) on the set screw and then remove the set screw. Then you can use a drift to tap out the lever axle (#2). This allows you to remove the lever and torsion spring.

The spring of interest is seen in this picture.
View attachment 1139323
Click to expand...
What exactly is the "wrong" way to install the spring (vs the "right" way)?

Also, do you have any tips for getting the bolt through the lever body, lever blade, freestroke, and spring? Calling it a chore is an understatement! 😭

I took the lever apart and gave the rollers and spring a clean. But after finally getting it back together, the "jumping" remained. Next time I might try cleaning the bore itself if I can find an easier way to reassemble the lever blade....
 
#19 ·
major go said:
What exactly is the "wrong" way to install the spring (vs the "right" way)?

Also, do you have any tips for getting the bolt through the lever body, lever blade, freestroke, and spring? Calling it a chore is an understatement! 😭

I took the lever apart and gave the rollers and spring a clean. But after finally getting it back together, the "jumping" remained. Next time I might try cleaning the bore itself if I can find an easier way to reassemble the lever blade....
Click to expand...
It is possible for the cam/follower to produce an audible click when when the spring is installed correctly. Shimano considers this within spec as it does not affect braking function so they typically will not warranty it. The spring can also click when not assembled correctly. I can not explain with only words how to assemble it and I do not have access to a lever to take any pics so the best I can suggest is to look at one that does not click and has the spring retained correctly.
 
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