Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

Poor rear hub pawl engagement?

Jump to Latest
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
K

keen

· Well-known member
Joined
·
10,426 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Just built a complete new rear wheel. I have about 60 miles on the rear hub and I am getting random "pop" from the rear hub (coast to pedal) @ least 6 times in a couple hour span. I have had pawl skipping occur on worn hubs or improperly lubed. I called the manufacture regarding their new hub and was told a "pop" here and there was normal. Would you be happy with a "here and there" pawl pop?
 
#2 ·
It happens if you just happen to go from coating to pedaling at the right time. Doesn't mean their anything wrong with the hub it means simply that you started pedaling at a point where the pawls can actually engage and they skip.

Now if you can pop the freehub body off and see the pawls and see something wrong then that's a different story. But the occasional "pop" I get at least once or twice every ride. Sometimes more just depending on the length of the ride and where. 4 different brands of Hubs. High engagement hubs are the ones that do it the least (yet to even notice it on my BHS hubs)

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
RAKC Ind said:
It happens if you just happen to go from coating to pedaling at the right time. Doesn't mean their anything wrong with the hub it means simply that you started pedaling at a point where the pawls can actually engage and they skip.

Now if you can pop the freehub body off and see the pawls and see something wrong then that's a different story. But the occasional "pop" I get at least once or twice every ride. Sometimes more just depending on the length of the ride and where. 4 different brands of Hubs. High engagement hubs are the ones that do it the least (yet to even notice it on my BHS hubs)

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Sorta disagree - May be related to "timing" but is it not the cause. A single pawl that doesn't properly engage in a multi pawl system will cause the "pop" - uneven load transfer. Your scenario would mean all of the pawls are just passing ring gear teeth peaks - might give a little more degrees of rotation.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Actually you understand exactly what I meant. Manufacturing tolerances will cause exactly that when new. Unless your on a top of the top of the line freehub body there is going to be slightly variations that will work themselves out in time. Manufacturing tolerances.

Big question is, what brand of hub? If it's upper tier then it shouldn't be happening, if it's mid or budget I would pop it off and check it.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
RAKC Ind said:
Actually you understand exactly what I meant. Manufacturing tolerances will cause exactly that when new. Unless your on a top of the top of the line freehub body there is going to be slightly variations that will work themselves out in time. Manufacturing tolerances.

Big question is, what brand of hub? If it's upper tier then it shouldn't be happening, if it's mid or budget I would pop it off and check it.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Profile Racing. Pawl engagement has worsened w/ more mileage. Profile uses a light teflon lube so my first thought wasn't an initial over lube. I intend to inspect the drive system but thought i'd like to hear wht Profile said about a new hub exhibiting pawl skipping. They said to inspect for a weak spring and or increase the tension of the existing springs (kind of backyard imo) They mentioned it was normal to have random pawl skipping "here & there"... I guess my last two hubs that were a third the cost were exceptions because not one pawl skip was felt after hundreds of miles.
 
#6 ·
Hub that's cost that much shouldnt be skipping and getting worse over what few miles you've ridden. I've had some that skipped the first probably 50miles but got better as things seated in.

In you case I'd be asking for a replacement freehub. I expect that out of Shimano level hubs, not hubs that cost what CK are or double that damn near of hopes. I was expecting something like a higher end Shimano or sram hub. Not something like profile.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
 
#7 ·
My opinion is that you'll get some degree of misalignment between the pawls and drive ring teeth with any pawl-type hub due to axle flex. Then when you cram an outrageous number of tiny teeth into the drive ring to get more points of engagement, your hub is going to be more sensitive to any misalignment.

Which brings me to why King and Onyx hubs are a better mousetrap. Rather than having cylinder A (the hub shell) mate with cylinder B (the freehub) in a very narrow space, their systems move those opposing forces further inward and spread the torque over wider areas. Look at the exploded views of either brand and you'll see. They take very different approaches to the problem but the point is the same.
 
#8 ·
Profile I just checked and is much the same. Like BHS and others the pawls and ring have been moved between the inner part of the freehub body and the drive ring is part of the hub itself or vise versa (CK seems to have the teeth on the freehub so engagement pawls are in the hub).

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
92gli said:
My opinion is that you'll get some degree of misalignment between the pawls and drive ring teeth with any pawl-type hub due to axle flex. Then when you cram an outrageous number of tiny teeth into the drive ring to get more points of engagement, your hub is going to be more sensitive to any misalignment.

Which brings me to why King and Onyx hubs are a better mousetrap. Rather than having cylinder A (the hub shell) mate with cylinder B (the freehub) in a very narrow space, their systems move those opposing forces further inward and spread the torque over wider areas. Look at the exploded views of either brand and you'll see. They take very different approaches to the problem but the point is the same.
Click to expand...
I ride w/ a fellow clyde that is north of 300lb. He could flex the axle enough to eventually cause the pawls / hub grenade this was on older QR hubs back in the day. I would like to think with thru axle systems they would be a bit stouter.
 
#10 ·
I'm 275 and never grenaded a freehub body but trashed pawls once and have a habit of killing bearings. Best luck on bearing has been Shimano SLX or above hubs.

My fat bike is on BHS(thru axle capable) now we'll see how long it survives. Expect my new BOTE stock formula thru axle to last 1 season before I smoke it.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
About this Discussion
9 Replies
3 Participants
Last post:
RAKC Ind
Mountain Bike Reviews Forum
posts
16M
members
534K
Since
1990
A forum community dedicated to Mountain Bike owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about bike parts, components, deals, performance, modifications, classifieds, trails, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General Discussion Downhill - Freeride California - Norcal Shocks and Suspension Passion