What do you guys think of the new Unit? Any thoughts on the switch to 27.5+ tires?
Stock 135 mm hub will work with the 135 mm CC hanger. The stock cranks have a 50 mm chain line vs NX's 49 mm. 49 mm might be a little bit better, but 50 mm is fine. 50 mm is what Shimano 1x11 cranks have also.Do you need to buy a new rear hub in order to install SRAM NX drivetrain groupset (without the crankshaft) on this bike, or will the stock rear hub work? Also, would you get the 135 mm CC hangar or the 142 mm CC hangar from Kona?
Actually, the NX does not use an XD driver. Only the GX does. So, in this case, could I stay with the stock rear hub, get the NX cassette, and the 135 mm CC geared hanger, and be good to go?Well the scam NX uses an XD driver if I'm not mistaken so yes you would need a new rear hub. as the stock Joytech is not compatible.
if you are staying 10mm QR then the 135mm geared hanger is what you want.
if you want to move to a 12mm through axle then you need a new hub and the 142mm drop outs and an axle also the Kona Drop outs use the 1.75 thread pitch not the more common 1.5 thread pitch. and i forget the thread length of the top of my head.
this bike is all about customization but can get complicated very fast.
The stock hub will work fine with any 8-9-10 speed cassette (probably 11 mountain too, I haven't tried. pretty sure 11 road will not work though). Just need the right frame dropout adapters for your wheel type. Either the 135 QR or 142 TA, based on your wheelset. Since it's hardtail steel, if your wheelset uses swappable end caps so you can use either QR or TA, I don't think it really matters on the frame if you're using the QR or TA adapters. Go with the one's your wheelset is currently set up for and ride. Assuming you're planning on using the stock wheels, get the 135QR adapters.Do you need to buy a new rear hub in order to install SRAM NX drivetrain groupset (without the crankshaft) on this bike, or will the stock rear hub work? Also, would you get the 135 mm CC hangar or the 142 mm CC hangar from Kona?
Thank you very much! So if I stay with the stock cranks, would I be better off (have a noticeable smoothness/reliability improvement) if I went with a comparable Shimano 1x11 drivetrain instead? I kinda really want a grip shifter (like the NX has) and also keep the total costs under $200.Stock 135 mm hub will work with the 135 mm CC hanger. The stock cranks have a 50 mm chain line vs NX's 49 mm. 49 mm might be a little bit better, but 50 mm is fine. 50 mm is what Shimano 1x11 cranks have also.
Sram NX PG-1130 casette fits a Shimano type freewheel (like the Joytech) unlike all the rest of Sram's cassettes. The NX casette is quite a lot heavier than Shimano's XT, SLX or Sunrace cassettes which would also fit and work with Sram derailleurs. So if you care about weight it might not be the best option.Well the scam NX uses an XD driver if I'm not mistaken so yes you would need a new rear hub. as the stock Joytech is not compatible.
if you are staying 10mm QR then the 135mm geared hanger is what you want.
if you want to move to a 12mm through axle then you need a new hub and the 142mm drop outs and an axle also the Kona Drop outs use the 1.75 thread pitch not the more common 1.5 thread pitch. and i forget the thread length of the top of my head.
this bike is all about customization but can get complicated very fast.
If you want, get the grip shifter. Sram, Shimano and Sunrace cassettes are all interchangeable and have the same spacing. I guess the function should be about the same. Some people have said that running a Shimano casette with Sram works better for them, and some that a Sram casette works better with Shimano... Many have reported that Sunrace cassettes work just as fine. The stock chainring is 11 speed compatible narrow/wide. I went with a Sunrace 11-46 cassette and Shimano SLX shifter and derailleur. It works just fine, but I don't have any comparisons, because I've been riding either single speed or fixed for the last few years.Thank you very much! So if I stay with the stock cranks, would I be better off (have a noticeable smoothness/reliability improvement) if I went with a comparable Shimano 1x11 drivetrain instead? I kinda really want a grip shifter (like the NX has) and also keep the total costs under $200.
I have the stock WTB wheelset. So I'm fairly certain I just need the 135 mm CC hanger from Kona, get the drivetrain from SRAM/Shimano, wires from Jagwire, and figure out how to put them all together?The stock hub will work fine with any 8-9-10 speed cassette (probably 11 mountain too, I haven't tried. pretty sure 11 road will not work though). Just need the right frame dropout adapters for your wheel type. Either the 135 QR or 142 TA, based on your wheelset. Since it's hardtail steel, if your wheelset uses swappable end caps so you can use either QR or TA, I don't think it really matters on the frame if you're using the QR or TA adapters. Go with the one's your wheelset is currently set up for and ride. Assuming you're planning on using the stock wheels, get the 135QR adapters.
Interesting point about the crankset though. Is the stock crank designed for a 10-speed chain? or for an 8/9 speed chain? Since it's singlespeed, Kona might have used a wider 8-speed
Yes. But Sram shifters (at least NX)come without the outer cable housing. Shimano SLX comes with the outer housing. Both have the cable included.I have the stock WTB wheelset. So I'm fairly certain I just need the 135 mm CC hanger from Kona, get the drivetrain from SRAM/Shimano, wires from Jagwire, and figure out how to put them all together?
Thanks so much!If you buy Sram then only the housing will be needed to purchase separately. with Shimano everything is included. I can't remember the Sunrace part numbers, but basically they have all steel casettes, steel casettes with aluminum spiders and cassettes with aluminum spiders with the largest cog made of aluminum (MX8). From cheapest to most expensive.
Thank you! Fortunately, it only costs about $8 here. As I was ordering online, I just wanted to be sure I had the right tool for the job. And since you had mentioned the joytech rear hub was shimano-type freewheel I thought maybe FR-1 might be the tool I should get. Thanks for clarifying! I'm all set for this conversion now (except for the Radon cable guides which I could not find an equivalent of, here in the US).FR-5 Casette/lockring tool should be the right one, but I'm not familiar with Park Tools cassette tools, because I've just used the cheapest one i could fine...
Thanks again!I was actually using a wrong word when I was talking about a Shimano type freewheel. It's actually a cassette freehub. It was my own translation from finnish... Don't worry about those cable guides, you can just use zip ties to attach the cable to the down tube.