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Best bt40 ride





My glare sensitive eyes and the BT40s beam pattern have not worked very well together. Beam patterns limited throw + a lot of foreground light left me with a light that had more perceived throw in high because turbo caused way too much glare directly in front of the bike that I couldn't see beyond. Multiple times I noted how much better the BT40s worked for me if I blocked the foreground light with my hand and this is a workable solution I've come up with. Initial ride results are promising but more experimentation will be required to obtain best results. Plan on using automotive tint film instead of the white cloth tape when I figure the best amount of coverage which should look less strange.
Mole
 
Interesting solution there Mole.
Quite happy with results so far. I can see farther and my eyes are more relaxed. Strange not being able to see the front wheel though. Reminds me of when I got my first fared sport bike (motorcycle) which I got used to. Wasn't a problem on the flat dirt trails I tried it out on last night but not sure how it will work on something more technical. Hopefully the auto tint film will allow me to see a little of the terrain around the front wheel and still cut the glare down effectively. We'll see.
Mole
 
Quite happy with results so far. I can see farther and my eyes are more relaxed. Strange not being able to see the front wheel though. Reminds me of when I got my first fared sport bike (motorcycle) which I got used to. Wasn't a problem on the flat dirt trails I tried it out on last night but not sure how it will work on something more technical. Hopefully the auto tint film will allow me to see a little of the terrain around the front wheel and still cut the glare down effectively. We'll see.
Mole
I'm glad you found a functional workaround for your glare problem Mole, pretty clever idea.
 
Hi all,

I just recently placed an order for the BT40s from Amazon (blue colored housing/$49 shipped). I had a gift card I needed to use up. I just came across this thread. Is there an issue with driver board for the latest version of this light? I have a night race coming up and this will be a back up light for me.
 
We have no idea when the "correct drivers" will make it back through the distribution channels. It's possible that Revtronic pulled the "bad ones" from Amazon and replaced with the "good".

There won't be anything really wrong with one that has the "bad" driver other than lower output (and I posted lumen measurements not long ago showing how much difference). If you have soldering skills it's pretty easy to just add sense resistors to boost it back up.

Do you have a link to this "blue" one? Never heard of it in any other color than black.

-Garry
 
Discussion starter · #1,053 ·
...My glare sensitive eyes and the BT40s beam pattern have not worked very well together. Beam patterns limited throw + a lot of foreground light left me with a light that had more perceived throw in high because turbo caused way too much glare directly in front of the bike that I couldn't see beyond. Multiple times I noted how much better the BT40s worked for me if I blocked the foreground light with my hand and this is a workable solution I've come up with. Initial ride results are promising but more experimentation will be required to obtain best results. Plan on using automotive tint film instead of the white cloth tape when I figure the best amount of coverage which should look less strange.
Mole
MrM, I'm surprised to hear you have a problem with glare using the BT40S ( assuming you are using the standard optic ). Are you using one that is modded? The only time I ever had a problem with glare using the BT40S lamp was when I tried to use two BT40's at the same time ( on high ).

If it's really that much of a problem that you feel you need to use tinted glasses or shields than you probably need to use another type lamp as a bar lamp. It doesn't sound safe to me to use something that actually limits your field of vision. I would suggest either one of the Wiz lamps or the Gloworm X2 fitted with spot optics and ordered with NW LED's. That said you might consider going to the next warmer level of LED ( 4500K or less ) for the lamp you use on the bars.
 
Hey Cat,

It's not that the glare creates such a problem that the light is unusable, I've just noted that I see much better when blocking the majority of the foreground light. Tape was just for preliminary experimentation and plan on using tint when I get a chance to pick some up. Should still be able to see some trail detail just cut down on the glare like sun glasses in the daylight.

Also I agree that this light layout is not the best bar setup for me. All the suggestions you made have been tried by me and do indeed reduce reflection induced glare. Preference currently would be XP2/X2/BT21 with the elliptical style glowworm optics.

Actually in the end I hope to not only improve my vision with the BT40s but maybe to a lesser degree see improvements with any bar light I use, especially the more powerful ones. It's just an experiment that may or may not work and worst that can happen is it gives me an extra excuse to go for a ride.
Mole
 
It's not that the glare creates such a problem that the light is unusable, I've just noted that I see much better when blocking the majority of the foreground light. Tape was just for preliminary experimentation and plan on using tint when I get a chance to pick some up. Should still be able to see some trail detail just cut down on the glare like sun glasses in the daylight.

Also I agree that this light layout is not the best bar setup for me. All the suggestions you made have been tried by me and do indeed reduce reflection induced glare. Preference currently would be XP2/X2/BT21 with the elliptical style glowworm optics.

Actually in the end I hope to not only improve my vision with the BT40s but maybe to a lesser degree see improvements with any bar light I use, especially the more powerful ones. It's just an experiment that may or may not work and worst that can happen is it gives me an extra excuse to go for a ride.
Mole
The experimentation is the best part.
 
So this past weekend I finally swapped emitters in my 2nd BT40S - swapped out the stock XP-G2's (+/- 4C tint @ 4,200k to 4,500k) for XP-G3's from Mouser listed as "4000k". I've been taking measurements the entire time during the evaluation and replacement of the "bad" stock driver to the "good" replacement driver, first with stock LEDs and now with the XP-G3's.

I had a big goofup when I first reflowed the XP-G3's. I reflowed all the XP-G3's in reverse polarity and when I fired it up nothing happened. I learned that the little black "dot" at the top corner of the emitter is NOT a polarity marking, but just some reference mark that Cree doesn't even acknowledge. The black "dot" shows up in the following photo:



For anyone attempting an emitter swap, the proper way to determine polarity is to look at the underside for the "triangle" in the green stripe (area between the "pads") as seen here:



The triangle points in the direction of the "cathode" (negative contact). You don't need to understand anode and cathode, just be sure to put the side with the triangle on the same side as the emitter that you remove.

Now on to the "tint evaluation". I bought these from Mouser listed as "4000k". My favorite tint is a 5B1 which is "4200k", but mouser only had 4000k and I think 5000k (at least at the time I ordered). I've had very little time to evaluate the tint and haven't been able to get outside with it at all. I basically rushed right from emitter reflow to white wall pics. (Please excuse the nasty basement "white wall".)

I'm not sure how exact these pics are showing tint, take them more as a relative comparison (I don't think they're that bad though). I took these with manual camera settings, manual white balance, and sped up the shutter speed so the photos weren't washed out with bright spill. The lights also don't have matching output levels and have different beam patterns. The same light might look different in each photo due to my selecting a different shutter speed (I tried to pick photos that best showed tint difference for each set). In the first pic the tints are as follows from left to right: 3C (4700-5000k), 4C (4200-4500k), 5A2 (+/-4200k - slightly "rosier" than the 5B1), 5B1 (4200k), and below all of those is my 2nd BT40S with new 4000k XP-G3's.



In this 2nd pic on the left is my 2nd BT40S with 4000k XP-G3's and on the right is the 5B1 (4200k):



In this 3rd pic on the left is my 2nd BT40S with 4000k XP-G3's again and on the right is my 1st BT40S with Nichia 219C's @ 5000k:



I took sphere measurements too, but I need to work those up so I will post those at a later time.

-Garry
 
Interesting. Good work. Good as comparation but does your camera has custom White balance adjustment feature set with sheet of white paper? I'm asking as I'm shure in reality 3C (5000K) is not so white. Someone looking those pictures might get wrong impression.
Of course, just as an suggestion.....
 
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