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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I gave up on the stock pads, we had our moments but I couldn't take anymore. Installed new pads which are labed as "Performance", they are supposed to last longer but have less power than the others types of pads. I did a long bed in procedure, brake more than 30 times with each brake, not dragging, just a short stop braking like a mofo. They got better, almost as good as the most basic Shimano brakes. They should be named Magura Tourney, in honor of their power.
Pads are centered, there's no side pushing the rotor first, everything is clean. Pistons are lubed, although on the front brake caliper the pads get a little bit misalightment after use; I think there's a lazy piston, but still, that doesn't explain the pathetic brake performance. I'm using Magura rotors, the pads reach all the surface as possible.
I don't have a changing bite point but I have the levers stop at 1cm from the grip, I use them very close to the grip so I don't know if it is because of that or not.
Any ideas?
 
Bleed them properly. They should be extremely powerful when correctly set up. Have you contacted Magura, they are very helpful.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD so please forgive the typos that occur when typing with two fingers.
 
I gave up on the stock pads, we had our moments but I couldn't take anymore. Installed new pads which are labed as "Performance", they are supposed to last longer but have less power than the others types of pads. I did a long bed in procedure, brake more than 30 times with each brake, not dragging, just a short stop braking like a mofo. They got better, almost as good as the most basic Shimano brakes. They should be named Magura Tourney, in honor of their power.
Pads are centered, there's no side pushing the rotor first, everything is clean. Pistons are lubed, although on the front brake caliper the pads get a little bit misalightment after use; I think there's a lazy piston, but still, that doesn't explain the pathetic brake performance. I'm using Magura rotors, the pads reach all the surface as possible.
I don't have a changing bite point but I have the levers stop at 1cm from the grip, I use them very close to the grip so I don't know if it is because of that or not.
Any ideas?
If the bit point is consistent and they are firm at 1cm from the lever (as in can't pull it any closer no even if you really try), it doesn't sound like a bleed issue. The only thing that comes to mind is contaminated rotors.

I have the MT7s and with clean pads, I can easily do nosies without really trying. Assist it myself over the bars the first time I grabbed the front brake. But somehow I got the pads/rotor contaminated and they felt like my old elixr 3s, I mean they functioned, but not that I have modulation but can also stop on a dime feel. I saved and cleaned the rotors with brake cleaner and got new pads (quickstops) they went back to adjust putting me over the bars.

If your sure they are not contaminated then call Magura because they should be powerful.

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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. @IPunchCholla: Actually, I could compress the lever enough to touch the grip, it stop at 1cm from the grip but with a little more force it could touch the grip. I did what I thought it was a good bleed (lol), after cutting the hoses.
So, I did a (quick) bleed doing the vacuum thing in the ETB port with a syringe, didn't do a full one because I have little oil left after doing a mess in the first bleed (that's why I don't like brakes with DOT oil) and both levers feel better and more firm.
I went for a ride and they are ok. Still waiting for the "amazing power" but atleast they are working.
I would see how it goes before talking to Magura. I should do a full bleed and maybe a deeper clean of the rotors. I only use isopropyl alcohol, I'm going to try something else because like yours @IPunchCholla, I think my original pads also were contaminated.

Anyways, thanks for the comments.
 
I went for a ride and they are ok. Still waiting for the "amazing power" but atleast they are working.
After getting the bleed set and new pads and sanitized rotor and still no joy consider moving up a size rotor. My new pivot came with shimano xtr and 180/160 rotor combo and the front was a bit stronger than my old mt8 but the rear was weak so i went to 180/180 and that did the trick. Also i never had good luck with magura pads and rotors so i ended up with icetechs and discobrakes semi metalics,cheap too
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
After getting the bleed set and new pads and sanitized rotor and still no joy consider moving up a size rotor. My new pivot came with shimano xtr and 180/160 rotor combo and the front was a bit stronger than my old mt8 but the rear was weak so i went to 180/180 and that did the trick. Also i never had good luck with magura pads and rotors so i ended up with icetechs and discobrakes semi metalics,cheap too
Thanks for the suggestion. I hope I get better braking before having to spend money on a new rotor. I want to try pads from another brands to see how they compare to Magura's. They seem to have a long bed in period, ain't nobody got time for that!
 
Thanks guys. @IPunchCholla: Actually, I could compress the lever enough to touch the grip, it stop at 1cm from the grip but with a little more force it could touch the grip. I did what I thought it was a good bleed (lol), after cutting the hoses.
So, I did a (quick) bleed doing the vacuum thing in the ETB port with a syringe, didn't do a full one because I have little oil left after doing a mess in the first bleed (that's why I don't like brakes with DOT oil) and both levers feel better and more firm.
I went for a ride and they are ok. Still waiting for the "amazing power" but atleast they are working.
I would see how it goes before talking to Magura. I should do a full bleed and maybe a deeper clean of the rotors. I only use isopropyl alcohol, I'm going to try something else because like yours @IPunchCholla, I think my original pads also were contaminated.

Anyways, thanks for the comments.
I have a pair of 2016 MT5's on my AM bike (Radon Slide 130 10.0 HD) and love them. I'm ~90kg so not easy on brakes, but they really do the job!

I use the original Magura 180mm rotors (although they could probably do with being replaced) on one wheelset, and Shimano Icetech rotors on my DH set, with stock pads. I've found them to be really powerful and reliable even when I've taken the bike on sessioned DH runs and laps at the bike park. In fact, they stop better and have been much less hassle than the XTs I have on my other bikes. The only issue I have noticed is that after a few runs, the caliper is *very* hot to the touch all the way back up on the chair lift (I've burnt by calf a few times!), but not had any noise or loss of power. In hindsight I actually regret the XT M8000 I put on my DH bike and wish I'd gone for the MT5 or MT7.

Reading your message above though, I really do think you need a proper bleed - my levers get *nowhere* near the grips when pulled, have great initial bite and then a pretty progressive 'hard' feel through the pull stroke - I initially disliked the 'dull' feel when compared to my Elixirs (until they exploded like all the others), and even XTs, but I now appreciate the solidity.

In my experience of contaminated rotors, you can pull and pull the brakes and only get squeal and a 'slipping' feel - it doesn't sound like the issue you describe.

Hope you can get them sorted!
 
I have a pair of 2016 MT5's on my AM bike (Radon Slide 130 10.0 HD) and love them. I'm ~90kg so not easy on brakes, but they really do the job!

I use the original Magura 180mm rotors (although they could probably do with being replaced) on one wheelset, and Shimano Icetech rotors on my DH set, with stock pads. I've found them to be really powerful and reliable even when I've taken the bike on sessioned DH runs and laps at the bike park. In fact, they stop better and have been much less hassle than the XTs I have on my other bikes. The only issue I have noticed is that after a few runs, the caliper is *very* hot to the touch all the way back up on the chair lift (I've burnt by calf a few times!), but not had any noise or loss of power. In hindsight I actually regret the XT M8000 I put on my DH bike and wish I'd gone for the MT5 or MT7.

Reading your message above though, I really do think you need a proper bleed - my levers get *nowhere* near the grips when pulled, have great initial bite and then a pretty progressive 'hard' feel through the pull stroke - I initially disliked the 'dull' feel when compared to my Elixirs (until they exploded like all the others), and even XTs, but I now appreciate the solidity.

In my experience of contaminated rotors, you can pull and pull the brakes and only get squeal and a 'slipping' feel - it doesn't sound like the issue you describe.

Hope you can get them sorted!
That's a good description of how the lever should feel. My lever stops about a cm from the bar and there is no way I'd get it to touch pulling even two fingers.

@passwordusername. I've had issues getting a good bleed. What seems to work the best is to:

make sure the "ears" of the caliper are vertical.

Attach the filled syringe to the caliper Tap the caliper with a rubber maker or the like a few times to jiggle any air bubbles loose.

Tilt the lever so the port is significantly higher than the rest of the lever.

Flick the lever a few times.

Tap the lever with a mallet.

Open port and put syringe in.

Push nearly all the fluid from the lower syringe through.

Don't vacuum it back.

If this doesn't work after two tries, then I'll do the vacuum/push routine. It's a simple process but it seems to be finicky.

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