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Davide

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Stratos ID vs PUSH Vanillas: AND THE WINNER IS PUSH!

I have now spent about a month on a Vanilla PUSH 2006 after about a year on a Vanilla STRATOS ID and fve months on a standard Vanilla 2004. It is time for some comments which might not apply so much to the Stratos (thanks to Specialized out of production) but might apply to the new FOX XTT.

Brake Dive: I hated the Vanilla as it came out of the factory. Combined with my 5-spot the dive under braking was horrible. Both the ID and the PUSH solve this issue. The ID is a rock under braking, it gives a beautiful feeling of staying level that inspires a lot of confidence. The PUSH has a very effective slow-compression dial that seem to work very well at decreasing the dive to irrelevant extent. Small Adantage: ID

Climbing. The ID is amazing when climbing, it was by far the most efficient fork I ever put my hands on: the inertia valve can be felt and you can "lean" on it reaulting in rigid-bike-like-climb that needs to be experienced to be really appreciated. Now ... the Push is almost as good in the normal setting (!). With the platform activated it is as good, or slightly better because it still works better on mid-size bumps that in slow motion can upset the ID. Adantage: Tie

At Speed The PUSH is very smooth and it is stays just glued to the ground, nothing seems to perturb it. The ID is fine, but it is not as controlled as the PUSH when the going get fast and one can feel the small transition from open/close of the inertia valve that sometimes makes the ride a bit "edgy" Adantage: PUSH

Small Bumps/low speed Push with platform and ID are both not too good. The ID performance unfortunately is related to the amount of preload. (The only thing that takes care of small bump compliance with the ID is the sag-to-ID-travel. Preload can be set anywhere from 0 to about 30mm of sag. With 0 you have a pretty harsh fork, with 30 it might even be too plush. The ID really needs an independent circuit to control the "height" at which the ID starts to work ... but it relies instead on the preload .... The PUSH in its non-platform setting is great in this department, small bumps are as non-existent as large ones ... (well of course this also depend on th eampunt of platform you use). Adantage: PUSH

Adjustabiltiy The lack of adjustability is the main problem with the ID, not much you can do besides rebound. The Push is one of the most adjustable fork I ever put my hands on (preload/rebound/slow-compression/platform). Adantage: PUSH

And the winner is: well PUSH.
I cannot see many reasons to get the ID (if you could), nor a FOX XTT, when the PUSH has as much platform, if you want it, but is simply sublime doing the main job of a fork (you know ... making those bumps go away :D )

Thanks Darren!
 
Do you want to sell your ID cartridge?

I'll buy it!

PS. Keep in mind that you sent an entire fork to PUSH vs. installing the ID cartridge yourself. Different oil & shims in the ID could change the performance for better or worse for you. I've found Torco 15W to be ideal with the ID for me.
 
B R H said:
I'll buy it!

PS. Keep in mind that you sent an entire fork to PUSH vs. installing the ID cartridge yourself. Different oil & shims in the ID could change the performance for better or worse for you. I've found Torco 15W to be ideal with the ID for me.
BRH if you still have your orginal fox damper pm please!!!

Thanks Rick
 
Nice review. Thanks for writing it up.

Do you find yourself switching between non-platform and platform settings during a ride? A lot, or just every now and then? Which setting do you spend more time in and how (or when) do you decide to switch from one to the other?
 
Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
Switch et al.

KevinB said:
Nice review. Thanks for writing it up.

Do you find yourself switching between non-platform and platform settings during a ride? A lot, or just every now and then? Which setting do you spend more time in and how (or when) do you decide to switch from one to the other?
I rarely use the switch. To me it only really makes sense if I have to climb steadily for a while ... however it is very usable and if you like a nervous ride, or you are on a relatively smooth terrain, so that the relativly less good small bump compliance does not bother you, you can go around with it with no problems. Sometimes, just for fun, I put my PUSH Rp3 and Vanilla both on full-platform and have fun going around on a ... hardtail that is also very plush at speed!
So ... uphill for sure, and maybe, depending on your mood, flat/ondulating/smooth, but I certanly do not like or want to switch back and forth continuosly ... you don't need it: the normal setting is very efficient by itself (and you have the platform dial to tune it)

To answer the other questions.

I put the ID and the original fork at 100mm on Anne's hardtail, and it will eventually make its way into a short travel fully (maybe an azure) ... so sorry I am not selling.

On the ID I use 5wt Torco oil, very light but I seem to like it that way. I also changed seal to Enduro at a certain point because the original seals started leaking happily, but I think the "edginess" of the ID action is built in ... it does not deped on seals/oil. It is not a big deal at all, and I don't want to sound too negative about the ID. It is a GREAT fork, and if you like a nervous ride, and maybe you are racing, it is as good as the PUSH and maybe better in terms of easy pedal efficiency (no fidgetting, it is set and forget, you stand ... the fork does not move, which is a godsend in some situations).

I do have the original 2004 FOX RL cartridge that I could probably sell ... without spring ... altoguh it is disassambled ... if PUSH modified cartridges it would be a nice item to upgrade but unfortunately they do not.
 
The lack of brake dive even in washboard stuff coming into corners is what I really appreciate about the ID. I am out of the saddle alot as well (especially on my singlespeed), so I love the solid feel. The small bumps pretty much disappear with tubeless tires & low air pressure.

My first experience with inertial valves was a demo ride of a Fox Terralogic. I thought it was really interesting but it turned out to be too unpredictable. The valve stayed open longer than I expected sometimes and also opened when I didn't expect it to in situations that seemed the same as others where it didn't open. I liked it, but found it frustrating at the same time so I never bought one.

My first Stratos ID wasn't setup right for me (trail vs. XC). My second is totally dialed in, so I'm really hoping to find another. You should PUSH your girlfriend's fork and sell your ID to me! :)
 
I've got 3 and 2 were never even ridden (pulled out immediately and swapped for IDs). The unused ones are a 130R and 80 RL. The slightly used one is a 100 RLT. Are you interested in any version in particular?
 
Again, nice review

Davide,
You have a sense of performance I find I always agree with when I've ridden similar equipment.

I have very little experience with platform forks and really have little use, since I don't need the added efficiency for hard racing and I'm not in a hurry when I climb, so I adapt to the cadence of the bob of my old school non-platform fork and I don't have a fork with travel long enough to broduce scary brake dive (only 100mm).

There may never be a linkage geometry solution for dynamic anti-bob and anti-dive for forks like there is with rear suspension anti-squat (some better than others for-sure). The rear suspension has the extra input (potential) of the chain tension extension reaction to dynamically enhance anti-squat in a limited section of travel when pedaling chain tension is the strongest, near sag.

Maybe a two wheel drive bike, or a chain tension sensitive sending unit with rear wheel only drive, could switch on anti-bob in a fork having anti-dive geometry. (Anti-dive is brake tension induced and doesn't produce anti-bob). Just thinking out loud...

Thanks for the expert review!

- ray
 
Inertia valves for DH forks?

I would like to know if anyone is using an inertia valve in a DH fork. I can see from the feedback what the main advantages are from installing something like the ID valve, but I would like to know how it performs in rough conditions. For hard corners on a DH track, there is generally brake bumps leading into the corner - does the valve work in the bumps?

Also for a hard corner, with the fork compressing it will steepen up the head angle and possibly make it better for the corner. With the inertia valve preventing fork dive, does that mean you will get more front end push? Or is a more consistent head angle better for cornering? ie no dive.

I have no idea if these are real issues or not but I would like to hear if anyone has tried it on a DH fork?
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Dive and DH

derby said:
Davide,
You have a sense of performance I find I always agree with when I've ridden similar equipment.

Thanks for the expert review!

- ray
oh, thanks, I always read your posting with interest and I got some very valuable information from you although ... I must say that often "Steve from JH" "uktrailmonster" you (and few others) loose me in a jungle of pivots-moments-lines-little-gree-frogs-hyperbolas-strange-forces that I am not equipped to follow (that what happens when you are trained as a mathematician and a musician but got no engineering to speak of :( )

A completely "transparent" anti-dive would be great ... altough I can certanly live with the PUSH or the ID as they are. An idealized ID-PUSH (a STRATOS ID with the a better control of the threshold, and the high-speed performance of the PUSH) would be great ... maybe is already out there with the XTT (I'll never know).

Keewee, the people at STRATOS might have the information you need. Their sponsored riders use (or used) the ID downhill. My PUSH works better than my ID downhil mostly because it seem react much faster to bumps, which I don't think has anything to do with the ID valve (once the valve is open, it is open ...). I suspect that a better/longer travel cartridge with an ID to controll dive can work very in a downhill applications (although ... nobody is really using inertia valves other than Stratos in DH, and if you are serious DH rider you might miss the lack of adjustabilty).

and BRH, I'll keep the ID on Anne's hardtail (who is actualy my wife although we act as if we are still dating, which is good!) I like to snick a ride on it just to experience the "sweet" efficiency of an hardtail with a ID in front.
 
This is exactly the advantage the ID has over Terralogic. The intertial valve recovers very quickly so the fork doesn't pack down in those situations allowing the fork to retain more of it's travel thru the rough sections.

Whether you would like the ID or not is probably a matter of personal preference. Personally I can't stand longer travel forks because they move my center of mass up too high. I also can't stand the huge variance in head tube angle (~1 degree per 20 mm). I had my first ID in a Fox 130 but quickly found that anything more than 100 mm just wasn't for me. If you rarely reach for your lockout lever, ID is probably not for you. If you like your fork to be predictable before plush, you will probably love ID. If you like a more sports car like ride rather than 4x4, you will love ID. If you're into big forks, big tires, & big bikes, my guess is that you'd probably not like it unless you are racing and doing quite well. Of course this is a generalization, but I'd bet that it is generally true. I would suggest riding a bike with Terralogic. If your impression is mostly negative, you'll probably not be happy with inertial valves.
 
B R H said:
The lack of brake dive even in washboard stuff coming into corners is what I really appreciate about the ID. I am out of the saddle alot as well (especially on my singlespeed), so I love the solid feel. The small bumps pretty much disappear with tubeless tires & low air pressure.

My first experience with inertial valves was a demo ride of a Fox Terralogic. I thought it was really interesting but it turned out to be too unpredictable. The valve stayed open longer than I expected sometimes and also opened when I didn't expect it to in situations that seemed the same as others where it didn't open. I liked it, but found it frustrating at the same time so I never bought one.

My first Stratos ID wasn't setup right for me (trail vs. XC). My second is totally dialed in, so I'm really hoping to find another. You should PUSH your girlfriend's fork and sell your ID to me! :)
BRH, when you say your first stratos id wasn't set up right, did you:
- start with a "trail" spec, and then change to "xc"; or
- start with a "xc" spec, and then change to "trail"?

What was it that you didn't like about it originally, that caused you to change? What kind of riding do you do? XC racing? Or more trail riding, rock gardens etc?

The reason I ask, is because I have a ID cartridge in my TALAS that has never worked correctly (inertia valve not working, for a year now), and I'll be sending it back to Stratos soon. I was thinking I might get it re-valved while it's there (sending it a looooong way).
 
Started with "trail", changed to "xc". When set to "trail", at first it seemed to work, but it felt like it was sticking open sometimes. It bobbed too much when I hammered out of the saddle too. In hindsight, I think the times it felt like it was working was when I was seated. It just didn't cross my mind at first that it was simply opening more easily than I wanted. Besides changing it to "xc", I also told them I wanted it really firm and I made sure to give them my weight including all my gear. I actually added 15 pounds to what I told them on the trail ID - about 5 pounds over my true riding weight... actually 10 lately.

I am more of a trail rider than racer, but I do race (mid-pack expert XC) and definitely prefer a more racey feel to my bike. I ride/race in northern CA where we have a very large mix of trails - everything from unrideable technical to smooth twisty singletrack. The fork has seen it all already and it just works perfectly. I should mention that I run tubeless converted wheels and the lowest tire pressures I can get away with. Also, now that the weather is cooling off, I think I'm going to have to switch from 15W to 10W fork oil. I noticed it got a little too stiff under about 50 degrees.

If you can't get your ID setup right for you, I'll buy it. :)
 
Just in case.....

B R H said:
I've got 3 and 2 were never even ridden (pulled out immediately and swapped for IDs). The unused ones are a 130R and 80 RL. The slightly used one is a 100 RLT. Are you interested in any version in particular?
Hi B R H,

I'm probably enjoying my Fox Float/Stratos ID equipped fork as much as you are. I've been on it for almost a year now and it's still perfect! I was just wondering if you have any of your ID cartridges and are willing to get rid of any of them? I'm thinking you probably wouldn't sell any of the ID seeing as how you probably bought out the entire 2nd market of ID's on MTBR.com :D , much to my dismay....

Just in case you were thinking of selling any of your ID's please let me know as I am very very very interested in adding one to my other float. We both know our friends at Stratos are no longer allowed to sell them.

Any help would be great. I'd gladly be a taker if want to get rid of any of the hundreds of ID's you have.....:)
 
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