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Strong 150x15 Carbon Fork

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#21 ·
Looks nice MATT. My neighbor has been happy with his Alaskan with the Framed carbon fork. I have a MN 2.2 and they have bent over backwards to get it to where I was happy. Granted, it would've been better if they made the QC more of a priority, but I guess I have one of the "cheaper" models. They do seem to be upping the anty with the Alaskans and Wolftrax and their carbon stuff. It has been my impression that their CS is good, but I will reiterate that they are not a full service bike shop.
 
#22 ·
Hey Shinkers, sorry for the slow reply. I missed your question. In addition to the Haru Pro I have ridden the Fatback carbon fork and the origin 8 carbon fork. They both rode well but are too short for my current bike. For Non Fat wheels I have a full carbon Pro fork, it is awesome. Stout, light and tracks really well, yet not too stiff. I had Bontrager and White Brothers 29er forks that I did not like, they were very similar, alloy crown/steerers and carbon legs. I ran the Bontrager on a 69er with an Endomorph tire for a couple years when that was the only fat bike tire.

Cheers!

Shinkers said:
Cool thanks. Still pretty undecided at the moment...

What other carbon forks have you ridden?
Click to expand...
 
#23 · (Edited)
15x150 carbon fork for 2XL? And with bottle cage mounts?

That Fatlab in the picture? Does anyone have any info about that yet?

I got info about price, it's 499USD+duty and VAT to Finland.
Salsa Bearpaw carbon costs 499e in Finland...

"The fork is in stock and the ac length is 490mm "

This one has been over a year in use here(not me). It's still working. Only i cant't find it at 51mm offset. :madman:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/15-..._10053_10050_10051,searchweb201603_7&btsid=f7b4dc6e-3010-4474-bf38-75bfef8fcd2a
 
#25 ·
Shinkers, thanks for the update. RSD is purdy expedient at gettin the shipments out. Took 4 days for the Mayor to show up in Colorado.
There's some rides that a rigid is preferable and others that you might wish you had the Wren.

Pix of before and after, please...
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Got the crown race on and cut the steerer. Watching the electoral map right now so will have to mount the fork tomorrow.

The crown race fit was very tight. Took about 10 minutes of smacking before I really wacked it to get it on.
 
Discussion starter · #34 · (Edited)
Alright so here's where I'm at...

Got the fork mounted. Front end is rediculously light. I did notice a creaking/cracking sound when I first got on. Maybe the axle 'bedding' in? Seems to be quiet now. I also accidentally torqued the compression plug to 6 nm when I thought my loose front wheel was actually the fork. Hopefully it's fine.

I like how it looks and how it feels. I'll hit some single track this Sunday and we'll see how it really feels.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
So what the hell? I took it out and my headset keeps loosening up. I have grip paste on the compression plug and the stem was torqued to 4.5 nm. All I can figure is I either need grip paste on my steerer too, or ro up my stems bolt torque.

Very frustrating to set your headset, climb a hill, and find its loose again.

If this keeps up I'll be getting rid of it.
 
#37 ·
Shinkers said:
So what the hell? I took it out and my headset keeps loosening up. I have grip paste on the compression plug and the stem was torqued to 4.5 nm. All I can figure is I either need grip paste on my steerer too, or ro up my stems bolt torque.

Very frustrating to set your headset, climb a hill, and find its loose again.

If this keeps up I'll be getting rid of it.
Click to expand...
Shinkers, I installed my fork dry. You must tighten the plug sufficiently as the stem clamp and cap. I've not had trouble since retightening everything on my bike. Give it a go and let us know how it turns up.
 
#38 ·
BansheeRune said:
Shinkers, I installed my fork dry. You must tighten the plug sufficiently as the stem clamp and cap. I've not had trouble since retightening everything on my bike. Give it a go and let us know how it turns up.
Click to expand...
Cap just establishes the proper compression - it's not there to hold the stem on. It should be tightened only to the point where there is no play when applying the front brake and moving the bike back and forth - which isn't very tight. You probably know this, but the wording of your post might confuse someone else. ;)
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
I put grip paste on because I had to torque the compression plug more then I felt comfortable with to get the headset to tighten up.

I added more grip paste to the steerer/stem interface as that's all I can think to do.

It happens while climbing, so what I figure is that pulling on the bars is somehow walking the stem up enough to get play.
 
#40 ·
Gambit21 said:
Cap just establishes the proper compression - it's not there to hold the stem on. It should be tightened only to the point where there is no play when applying the front brake and moving the bike back and forth - which isn't very tight. You probably know this, but the wording of your post might confuse someone else. ;)
Click to expand...
Agreed although common sense is not optional in anything in life.

Shinkers said:
I put grip paste on because I had to torque the compression plug more then I felt comfortable with to get the headset to tighten up.

I added more grip paste to the steerer/stem interface as that's all I can think to do.

It happens while climbing, so what I figure is that pulling on the bars is somehow walking the stem up enough to get play.
Click to expand...
I found that too as I was being too timid with the wrench the first time through.
 
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MozFat
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