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dinsum

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I purchased a used 2014 norco storm 9.1 bike a couple months back and noticed the rear brake doesn't work nearly as good as the front, im talking like only 35% as good as the front and it has next to no stopping power especially when im going down a hill, front and rear brake levers feel stiff but the front feels a tad bit more stiff then the rear but not by much

Both brakes are the same, they are Shimano M395

Both are using resin pads with a good amount left, no contamination of any kind on the rotors and brake pads, i cleaned them all to make sure, rotors spin nice and true, no bends

I tried bleeding the rear brake 3 times without any success in helping the situation, the bleeding method is the shimano funnel on the lever with mineral oil in it, syringe with tube filled with mineral oil with absolutely no air bubbles, 50ml worth, I push it all through the system from the caliper and make sure there is no bubbles coming out of the funnel and still the rear brakes are complete rubbish

Is there something im missing here? I have absolutely no idea if the problem is the brake lever or the caliper.... there is no oil leaking anywhere from what I can tell

Could it be something like a bad piston seal?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks

I should also note that I tried taking the caliper off and took the pads out, i started pumping the brake to see what would happen and I started to notice a couple tiny bubbled creeping out from the side of one of the pistons, very little amount and seems to only happen once the pistons compressed passed their normal working position
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
I guess what im really asking is if there are no air bubbles in the system, brake pads and rotor are in good shape without contamination and no oil leaks then what else can cause the brakes to be so very weak?
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
can't lock the rear wheel, im 190 lbs, feels like its 50% of the force needed to lock the wheel, i can feel just how much more powerful the front brake is by trying to spin the wheels by hand when pressing the brake, can really feel the different when riding
 
As long as your lever doesn't have excessive dead stroke, feel excessively mushy, nor need to be "pumped" to feel braking power return, the bleed status should be fine.

I never had good luck cleaning contaminated resin pads, even trying to set them on fire to burn off any potential oil absorbed deep within. New pads along with a new rotor always restores my brakes to like-new status. Only cost me about $25 from JensonUSA per side.
 
Sand the rotor with some 320 or so sandpaper and wipe it with alcohol. Swap the front pads into the caliper without using the old pads on the rear rotor. If there's a difference after bedding in you need new pads for the rear. Or just put the new ones on the front.
I like a SLX on the front. It's just bolt on. Enough power that you won't care what's on the rear.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
thanks for the ideas

yeah when i get home later im going to try to swap the rotors and pads from front to back to see if it changes anything, hope it does lol
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
swapped pads from front to back and what do you know, brakes are working good :) not quite as good as the front but I would say 80% as good, im happy with that

Thanks you all!
 
That bubbling situation you noticed while working the caliper without the pads is worth keeping an eye on by removing and checking the back of the pads for oil once in a while. If you see any replace the caliper.
 
Sand the rotor with some 320 or so sandpaper and wipe it with alcohol.
Sand the pads too, then wipe with alcohol. I had lots of problems with rear squealing and not locking. Sanding the rotor and pads, clean with alcohol and rebedd always worked for me. I also use resin pads and I am 205 lbs.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
 
My poor luck with all different kinds of cleaning methods on pad and rotors only restored braking performance to a fraction of their original performance. Sanding, solvent (alcohol, brake cleaner, etc.), abrasive/rubbing compounds, torching/baking, ultrasonic cleaning... never even close to even 80%, maybe 60%, but at least better than rim brakes on a cheap painted rim, and quiet again. Basically usable, but could be better, as I'm not riding as fast/aggressive knowing my speeds can't be checked as well. The lowest cost pads and rotors I could find worked far better than the higher quality stuff I tried to restore through the various cleaning methods.
 
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