A friend and I had a discussion regarding different hubs. I just had to buy an expensive tool to take my DT 350 hub apart. Annoying! Why are XTR hubs ignored when talking about hubs. They are sub 200 dollars, east to rebuild, and light. Why not XTR?
Why not XTR hubs?
Jaybo
21 - 40 of 122 Posts
Joined
·
5,817 Posts
I've cup and cone pretty easy to adjust, there are far worse tasks to do on a mountainbike. I've no idea what my current front hub is, but my last couple of sets have been pressed bearings, no real bling hubs. One thing that always intrigues me is the ol spin test. Cup and cone wheels seem to spin for ever...
Of course they may just be super loose, but in my very limited, completely non scientific testing, they just won't stop spinning!
Of course they may just be super loose, but in my very limited, completely non scientific testing, they just won't stop spinning!
Joined
·
13,816 Posts
I don't know how you figure that? Both bearing types work, and both will fail if water and dirt get in, but the big advantage of cartridge hubs is that if this happens at least you can replace the whole bearing. With cup-and-cone the inner race is effectively part of the hub so once it's damaged, the hub is scrap.
And then there is the cup-and-cone hub's dirty little secret! Everyone thinks about a Shimano hub having the two angular contact bearings on each side of the hub but in fact they have three bearings. They need one to allow the free-hub to rotate against the hub so hidden away at the back of the free-hub is bearing that is pretty much identical to a cartridge bearing, except that it's built into the part and is virtually impossible to service. Ironically, it's this bearing that often wears out first on Shimano hubs, as the sealing on it is crap, and there is nothing you can do about it.
Which type of bearing arrangement lasts the longest has little to do with the inherent design of the bearings but everything to do with the seals. The hub with the best seals, wins. The seals on low-end Shimano, and most other cup-and-cone hubs, are rubbish, especially on the drive side. Being able to put a lot of grease in a bearing matters little if water can get in and turn it to rusty mayonnaise. XT level up they're a lot better but most cartridge hubs still do better in practice. Especially if you pop the seals off and fill them with grease. They seem to last indefinitely if you do that.
In terms of performance, again it depends. Yes, cup-and-cone hubs can run smoother but only if they are properly maintained and correctly adjusted. The big plus though is that you can adjust them. With cartridge hubs the bearing pre-load is determined by the geometry of the parts making it very difficult to alter it. If the bearing seats or spacer tube are machined just a fraction out it will overload the bearings and you'll have a sticky hub. I have a Hope front hub that was like this. It worked but was far less free that it should have been and it was a real pain to try and free up. Even when running ok, I'd still say that Shimano hubs run faster.
To generalise I'd say that if you want wheels that spin fast for road use and don't mind puling them apart at least once a year, go with Shimano. If you want fit and forget reliable hubs for off-road then cartridge are usually better. Which I prefer rather depends on what kind of mood I'm in ;0)
Joined
·
689 Posts
I usually run sealed bearing hubs on all of my bikes, road, mountain, tandem... On my bikepacking bike though, the inexpensive wheelset that I bought for it a couple of years back had Shimano SLX hubs. These aren't top of the line hubs. But I had to stop and think about how smooth rolling that they've been for me under load. They really do roll well. When I discussed the fact that Shimano uses all cone and cup bearings with my LBS, they said that Shimano insists that they are much superior.
Joined
·
13,816 Posts
They do seem to whiz along in a way that cartridge bearings can't quite match.
Yep, properly adjusted cup and cone are amazing, but you gotta spend a bit of effort to get it right. And they're never set properly from the factory. I also appreciate quieter freehubs, but I have had issues even though I'm not a heavyweight.
Joined
·
13,816 Posts
It's funny but I don't care much about the noise either way. I've just swapped the Hope wheels on my hardtail for XT ones, just for the hell of it to be honest, and it's kinda weird not having the buzz. I've never had a problem with a Shimano free-wheel. You people are getting me worried now ;0)
Joined
·
18,913 Posts
I don't know that I would go back to cups and cones, but I have to say that when the Shimano's are dialed in, they roll great. Very dependable.
As far as Shimano Freehubs, I never had any issues with them. I kept them properly lubricated and on a regular basis. I have one Shimano freehub with over 10,000 trouble-free miles.
As far as Shimano Freehubs, I never had any issues with them. I kept them properly lubricated and on a regular basis. I have one Shimano freehub with over 10,000 trouble-free miles.
I don't get why people need to do this a few times a year. Are you pressure washing the seals? Some people go 10,000 miles between services on ride across Africa.You are a lucky one then, because for your one love affair with them, I cannot count the amount of people who have had issues. Why would someone want to buy a hub that they need to pick down and service a few times a year when they can get one with pressed in sealed bearings that don't require itut:
Sealed cartridge bearings are a compromise in that they are as good for side loads, and you can never set them up perfectly.
They are 36. Is that low? Many boutique hubs are 18.
Joined
·
24,227 Posts
Many??
Joined
·
675 Posts
When I had shimano hubs, I used a spare skewer and some washers to simulate being in the bike with skewer tension. it made it easy to set the cone pressure accurately.
I gave up on shimano hubs due to needing to repack main bearings 3-4 times a year and replace the freehub body about twice. I also had the splined boss that the freehub mounts on beak completely off the hub. This resulted in a long push out of the woods.
My white industries hubs have been running without any service or issues for 3.5 years.
G
Guest
·namely??
Joined
·
24,227 Posts
I know of only 2.
Racers and xc types like the 240 because it's light, reliable and fast rolling, poe doesn't matter so much when you're cruising at a good clip and always on the power.
Hacks like me appreciate the 350 because it's good value.
21 - 40 of 122 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
