Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

Shorter Rider and Stem Length

Jump to Latest
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
#23 ·
mcbiko said:
Yeah- saw that video. Still couldn't do it....I'll try again tomorrow. I also just noticed that the bike in the above video has a very short stem.
Click to expand...
Also very short chainstays and a tall rider.
The result is that he can get his ass much further back than I can reach.
I am sure that makes a big difference.

I have been trying the "L-shaped" method for the past 6 months without success.
I shortened the stem from 120mm to 30mm, that helped me get the wheel a few inches higher but that's it. I tried reversing the stem, but my knees hit the handlebars.

Has the "L-shaped" method worked for any short riders?
 
#26 ·
andytiedye said:
Also very short chainstays and a tall rider.
The result is that he can get his ass much further back than I can reach.
I am sure that makes a big difference.

I have been trying the "L-shaped" method for the past 6 months without success.
I shortened the stem from 120mm to 30mm, that helped me get the wheel a few inches higher but that's it. I tried reversing the stem, but my knees hit the handlebars.

Has the "L-shaped" method worked for any short riders?
Click to expand...
I'm 5'4", and struggling with the manual as well. Whenever I see one of these videos it's always a tall rider that has no issue getting their weight behind the rear axle.

I have the opposite issue, I can get the wheel up, but when I do I always loop out. I've gotten a little gun shy as I've fallen on my ass and tailbone a few times. It happens so fast I can never seem to grab the brake in time.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
I got my new stem and installed it...I had envisioned hitting the trails and bunny hopping like Rodger Rabbit by mid afternoon. Well that dream fizzled fast. While the new stem definitely helps in lifting the front wheel, I still cannot keep it in the air. I agree with what others have pointed out in that rider height is a major factor, especially with a 29er. Shorter riders are unable to transfer enough weight behind the rear wheel to easily maintain lift.

I really think a 26" or 27.5" bike is needed. However, I'm just not sure this new bunny hopping obsession of mine is worth a bike switch as I've been really happy with my 29er. What do you guys think?
 
#29 ·
Danny MacAskill is only 5'9" and doesn't have much of problem manualing or bunny-hopping a 29'er.

I do realize he's a pro, and also think that learning on a 20" bmx bike first would probably be beneficial for you but I'm just saying that @ 6'3" I still can't manual for $hit, it's not all about height.
 
#31 ·
J.B. Weld said:
I still can't manual for $hit, it's not all about height.
Click to expand...
No, of course not. I'm just saying that the bigger the bike the harder is it going to be, that's all.

I personally think that 29ers are too big for short riders. Years ago I saw a girl/woman on a scaled-down road bike. It looked very funny but it was sized to fit her small frame and it clearly worked as she flew on it!
 
#33 ·
J.B. Weld said:
learning on a 20" bmx bike first would probably be beneficial for you but I'm just saying that @ 6'3" I still can't manual for $hit
Click to expand...
Yup, totally agree.
I'm 5'-11" and can't even really manual my 20", despite a fair amount of trying at it, as well as on my mtn bikes. It's just not an easy thing to learn. For some it's like myself, it's damn near impossible. Has nada to do with the size of the wheels though; some of us just don't 'get it' naturally at all. Only cure is endless practice.
 
#35 ·
mcbiko said:
I really think a 26" or 27.5" bike is needed. However, I'm just not sure this new bunny hopping obsession of mine is worth a bike switch as I've been really happy with my 29er. What do you guys think?
Click to expand...
bunnyhopping and manualling are 95% skill, technique and, strength. smaller wheels are only going to make that a tiny bit easier, which might not be enough to make it worth getting a whole new bike.

if you want to ride trails with lots of jumps and that sort of thing, smaller wheels might be more appropriate. if you want to learn to hop and manual because you want to be able to do tricks on your bike, go for it.

however, if you want to learn to hop and manual because it will make you more capable on long rides on XC type trails, so you can climb better, get over difficult obstacles, etc, stick with the 29er.

think about what you spend most of your time doing on your bike- riding long miles on rocky, dirt trails, or jumping over things and doing tricks. set your bike up to reflect a majority of your riding, not the occasional jump or ledge.
 
#36 · (Edited)
No need to try to force a square peg into a round hole, there's no good reason not to have a play bike to learn stuff on. BMX/DJ etc bikes are simple, fairly cheap, and fun as ****. Get one, get comfortable riding without your ass planted on the seat all time, learn how to actually move around on a bike, manuals, wheelies, pumping, etc etc will all start making more sense.
 
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
About this Discussion
36 Replies
13 Participants
Last post:
Mr Pig
Mountain Bike Reviews Forum
posts
16M
members
534K
Since
1990
A forum community dedicated to Mountain Bike owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about bike parts, components, deals, performance, modifications, classifieds, trails, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General Discussion Downhill - Freeride California - Norcal Shocks and Suspension Passion