I want to put a dropper post on my Fuel EX8 but I need 25mm set back. Its 31.6 and I have 10 inches of set post exposed so I'm guessing it has to be attest 400mm long.
Dropper post with 25mm set back
pulser
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9point8 Offset Head
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Its extra awesome because you can convert the post from setback to straight (and vice versa) in case you change frames. Lots to like about 9point8's posts.
Answering my own question, I Drove 200 km to a bike shop and measured one. It's about 25mm. Getting one with my Thunderbolt
OK, OK, I also brought my bike because there's no snow there.
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Did you get one how do you like it? My local shop has one in stock and I am thinking about getting it.Answering my own question, I Drove 200 km to a bike shop and measured one. It's about 25mm. Getting one with my Thunderbolt
OK, OK, I also brought my bike because there's no snow there.
Hi pulser, mine is on order through LBS. I was a little worried about fit, and it was hard to get the specs to see if the 125 dropper would be too tall - the depth of my Adamo seat, the height of my Thunderbolt's seat tube and the depth of the Command Post head all combine to make it a little tighter than one would expect. It was hard to get dimensions to be sure, so I phoned Specialized and they said that the 430 mm long unit has a maximum insertion of 230 mm, leaving 200 between the seat post clamp and the seat rail (presume all 125's are all the same). At almost straight leg I have 205mm of room to fit the 200, so it should be perfect, er,,, I hope
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Thanks I have to take my bike over to the shop so we can test fit it and see if it will work. Its the reason I am thinking about going with the Spec. post over the 9point8. And 9point8s web store doesn't seem to work so I can't order one any way. O yea and its like $150 cheaper. I'm just a little afraid of how fast it pops up and you don't seem to really be able to control it.Hi pulser, mine is on order through LBS. I was a little worried about fit, and it was hard to get the specs to see if the 125 dropper would be too tall - the depth of my Adamo seat, the height of my Thunderbolt's seat tube and the depth of the Command Post head all combine to make it a little tighter than one would expect. It was hard to get dimensions to be sure, so I phoned Specialized and they said that the 430 mm long unit has a maximum insertion of 230 mm, leaving 200 between the seat post clamp and the seat rail (presume all 125's are all the same). At almost straight leg I have 205mm of room to fit the 200, so it should be perfect, er,,, I hope
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Subscribed. I'm interested in a 25 mm offset. Post a report when you've had a few rides and let us know how it's working.
In particular, I'm wondering of the leverage from the offset causes any problems. Thanks!
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In particular, I'm wondering of the leverage from the offset causes any problems. Thanks!
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135 Posts
The drawing page at 9point8 has accurate measurements. I have my Fall Line 415X125 lower tube inserted all the way, BTW.
For the 9point8, the offset head has no negative effect on performance. I swapped both heads back & forth before settling on the offset head. The shorter lower tube of the two 125mm stroke models can cause a bit of ramp-up in force needed to lower the saddle at the bottom of the stroke, compared to the higher volume 415mm lower tube, this according to 9point8. The ability to adjust saddle fore & aft independent of angle is a BIG plus for the Fall Line.
A very slack seat tube angle can increase the possibility of stiction for any dropper. So can an overtightened seat tube clamp.
For the 9point8, the offset head has no negative effect on performance. I swapped both heads back & forth before settling on the offset head. The shorter lower tube of the two 125mm stroke models can cause a bit of ramp-up in force needed to lower the saddle at the bottom of the stroke, compared to the higher volume 415mm lower tube, this according to 9point8. The ability to adjust saddle fore & aft independent of angle is a BIG plus for the Fall Line.
A very slack seat tube angle can increase the possibility of stiction for any dropper. So can an overtightened seat tube clamp.
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It looks like KS makes one with a 30mm set back too. Its on my radar but its not a stealth post so it has a cable connected to the head. Im guessing it would work well for me just because my saddle is pushed all the way back on the 25mm setback post I have now.
Command Post IRcc: Got it, installed it, Gotcha's to report
Hello,
My LBS had scheduled a time to install the seat post, but I decided to pick it up and do it myself (and save their good will for another day). When I got home and laid out the parts to begin the install, I was a little miffed to find that a couple of the parts required to do the install with the lever for a non-Specialized bike were not included: "ensure the following items are in the box or supplied with the bike". NEITHER, in my case! A few bucks worth of parts! The next day I did a hundred mile round trip to the LBS to scrounge a couple of parts. Routing through the mechanics' junk boxes, we came up with a 135 degree noodle pipe and a Jagwire inline adjuster. A HUNDRED MILES! Because I have a unitized Shimano SLX brake and shifter, actually making this fit was going to be another challenge. I cut the noodle at just under 90 degrees to make this setup:
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There were two possible places to install the lever within reach of my thumb, and one was quite a stretch, so I chose the location shown in the photos. The lever is a little high, but easy to operate and not in the way. Its position is not adjustable, being pretty well determined by how the noodle sneaks in between the brake and shifter mechanics. It worked out pretty well and I consider myself lucky to get anything workable with all the other stuff bolted to the handlebar.
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Here's the other gotcha: The detailed instructions have you setup the lever end of the cable housing first and then cut the housing off level with the top of the seat tube. The housing is then pulled out the seat tube and a length of it cut off to match the inserted length of the dropper when setup for the rider. This gives an exact tubing length the first time. The problem is, the supplied cable housing was too short to facilitate this intentional wastage of housing when fitting to my bike. I have a large Thunderbolt and would expect it's not the largest frame out there. No worries, I abandoned the complex procedure and did it this way: left the lever mechanism free, installed the supplied length of cable housing and setup the cable length at the seat post to operate properly. Then I made sure there was sufficient slack and laid the cable along the handlebar and measured how much needed to be cut to have the lever attached next to the grip. pulled the cable out, cut the housing at the handle bar end and cut the cable a little less and re-installed. Did it the first try ,,,, easy
The fit of the 125mm dropper for me and my bike was pretty well perfect. I have about 14 mm of leeway to lower the dropper assembly if desired. I tried to measure the air pressure, but that didn't work out. To pump it back up, I used my Fox shock pump to get it to just below an indicated 20 psi and then bled tiny bits of air until the spring action just started to slow down a bit. I see no problems with getting the nads slammed - it seems pretty easy to control the ascent with my butt I will post about any difficulties, but expect none - I like it!!!
Glen
Hello,
My LBS had scheduled a time to install the seat post, but I decided to pick it up and do it myself (and save their good will for another day). When I got home and laid out the parts to begin the install, I was a little miffed to find that a couple of the parts required to do the install with the lever for a non-Specialized bike were not included: "ensure the following items are in the box or supplied with the bike". NEITHER, in my case! A few bucks worth of parts! The next day I did a hundred mile round trip to the LBS to scrounge a couple of parts. Routing through the mechanics' junk boxes, we came up with a 135 degree noodle pipe and a Jagwire inline adjuster. A HUNDRED MILES! Because I have a unitized Shimano SLX brake and shifter, actually making this fit was going to be another challenge. I cut the noodle at just under 90 degrees to make this setup:
There were two possible places to install the lever within reach of my thumb, and one was quite a stretch, so I chose the location shown in the photos. The lever is a little high, but easy to operate and not in the way. Its position is not adjustable, being pretty well determined by how the noodle sneaks in between the brake and shifter mechanics. It worked out pretty well and I consider myself lucky to get anything workable with all the other stuff bolted to the handlebar.
Here's the other gotcha: The detailed instructions have you setup the lever end of the cable housing first and then cut the housing off level with the top of the seat tube. The housing is then pulled out the seat tube and a length of it cut off to match the inserted length of the dropper when setup for the rider. This gives an exact tubing length the first time. The problem is, the supplied cable housing was too short to facilitate this intentional wastage of housing when fitting to my bike. I have a large Thunderbolt and would expect it's not the largest frame out there. No worries, I abandoned the complex procedure and did it this way: left the lever mechanism free, installed the supplied length of cable housing and setup the cable length at the seat post to operate properly. Then I made sure there was sufficient slack and laid the cable along the handlebar and measured how much needed to be cut to have the lever attached next to the grip. pulled the cable out, cut the housing at the handle bar end and cut the cable a little less and re-installed. Did it the first try ,,,, easy
The fit of the 125mm dropper for me and my bike was pretty well perfect. I have about 14 mm of leeway to lower the dropper assembly if desired. I tried to measure the air pressure, but that didn't work out. To pump it back up, I used my Fox shock pump to get it to just below an indicated 20 psi and then bled tiny bits of air until the spring action just started to slow down a bit. I see no problems with getting the nads slammed - it seems pretty easy to control the ascent with my butt
I will post about any difficulties, but expect none - I like it!!!Glen
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Glen -- Thanks for the detailed report. I read it with interest. I am thinking about picking up one of these specialized command blacklite posts. I need offset and there are few offered. I think this is the best one. I look forward to a report after you've got some miles on it. Be sure to let us know what you think of the clamping mechanism and how well it holds up under use, if you could.
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Hi Silent Drone,
Hopefully I'll get to test it out this weekend. As I get to experience this ejection seat, I am comforted by the fact that proper seating position on the Adamo seat has one's junk positioned comfortably in front of the nose of the seat:thumbsup: But seriously, I think all it takes is a little awareness to avoid a surprise.
FWIW, I added a photo.
Glen
Hopefully I'll get to test it out this weekend. As I get to experience this ejection seat, I am comforted by the fact that proper seating position on the Adamo seat has one's junk positioned comfortably in front of the nose of the seat:thumbsup: But seriously, I think all it takes is a little awareness to avoid a surprise.
FWIW, I added a photo.
Glen
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305 Posts
Thanks for the pic. I have the very similar XT brakes. It helps to see how your routed it. Very functional. Looks great!
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Did the clamp on the thumb lever fit on the bar or did you have to find some sort of ring/shim under it? Mine is used as the lock on for that grip. I want to switch out to my preferred lock on grips and am curious if I need something between the clamp and bar.
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