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#41 ·
When people start asking stuff like, "How do you like the _____ on your bike? Do you notice that [insert problem here] happens whenever you [insert maneuver here]?" just put your fingers in your ears and go, "La lala lala la laa....."

Also, don't "sample" other people's bikes before the ride in the parking lot. Unless it's a rigid singlespeed with one brake missing. Bikes like that will make you appreciate what you've already got! Except that you'll start lusting for a SS just to learn it and prove you don't need the fancy-schmancy stuff.

I also tell myself I need to "earn" new stuff. That is, in the beginning, I had one pair of padded shorts and two plain jerseys. As I rode more, I bought more as needed. Then I use it as motivation- "You can't wear that colorful new jersey if you can't ride a little faster!"
 
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#43 ·
Did you read my signature?

cautiouschris said:
tubbyonce said:
-
- Avoid 90% the items discussed on the "Save some weight" forum.
- Weight Saving + Bling = $$$$$$.
Good advice coming from a recovering weight weenie...
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As my signature states, Tubbyonce is just a name. I've never been above 2656 oz. (166 lbs. for those who don't want to work it out.)
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#44 ·
spreadsheet planning

I was thinking about some weight weenie parts, but I wanted to know the cost effectiveness of the replacements I had in mind. So I worked up a spreadsheet with the parts, their dollar values and relative weights. After looking at the dollars spent per gram saved I didn't end up replacing anything except my tires.
 
#46 ·
gunfodder said:
I was thinking about some weight weenie parts, but I wanted to know the cost effectiveness of the replacements I had in mind. So I worked up a spreadsheet with the parts, their dollar values and relative weights. After looking at the dollars spent per gram saved I didn't end up replacing anything except my tires.
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Yeah, upgrading just to save weight comes out to a pretty hight $ per gram affair. I think what I came up with was that I am willing to spend about $0.40 per gram of weight savings. That pretty much rules out any repacement of existing, working parts, but it does factor into which parts to buy when I am already needing a part.

It blows my mind to see someone drop money on an XTR or X.O derailiuer to replace a perfectly functional LX.
 
#49 ·
Some good advice here

The best pieces of advice I have seen here
1) Do your own maintenance. This is only cost effective if you take the time to learn how to do it. If you don't learn how, it can be more expensive. I still do not mess around with rebuilding forks and anything more than a minor true to the wheels

2) Model / year end closeouts. Almost everything I have purchased for my bikes over the last few years have been closeouts of some kind. You can pick up stuff at 60% off MSRP if you keep your eyes open.

Disagreement - Patching tubes sucks. It's a pain, and when you can buy 10 tubes for $17, why waste 30 minutes of your life trying to get a patch to stick that might not fix your problem.

My own

3) Find some yahoo to befriend with more money than sense. A racer buddy of mine sold me an entire XT shifter / der / brake group for $50. He got the bike from his team and wanted XTR instead of XT. Guys with upgrade-itis are great, because you can get stuff dirt cheap. I know - I have sold stuff for dirt cheap during my own upgrade phases

My current primary bike
853 Steel frame - $180 closeout
Wheels - Mavic discontinued + Performance 20% coupon - $80
tires - Hutchinson changed the color of the tread - $12 ea
Shifters / ders - 5 years old from above mentioned yahoo - still work like new
Fork - $650 fork I bought on closeout for $280
Cranks - Shim. LX closeout - $50/crank, $10 BB
 
#51 ·
Clothes

I don't wear the tight lycra shorts so this may not apply to everybody

I get Nike or other brand shirts on sale for 15-20$ at Sports Authority or Models
I get shorts from the same place for 20-$30. I also have some Old Navy shorts that work quite well for MTB for $15.
 
#52 ·
gunfodder said:
I was thinking about some weight weenie parts, but I wanted to know the cost effectiveness of the replacements I had in mind. So I worked up a spreadsheet with the parts, their dollar values and relative weights. After looking at the dollars spent per gram saved I didn't end up replacing anything except my tires.
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This is a great idea. I have done the same thing a few times. There are some good cheap weigh saving tips I've picked up on the Save Some Weight forum. 1) use foam grips, like Titec Pork Rinds or Richey, 2) go tubeless, 3) get a lighter saddle, there are some cheap ones out there (I got a SuperGo but my d!ck went dump so I ditched it). These things don't cost that much and can save some serious weight. Oh lock ring on you cassette, cost versus percent saved is a pretty good value, while overall weight savings is not that high.
 
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#53 ·
WalMart

I know its not the best Economic, geopolitical thing IMO, but jerseys from WalMart are great. I got 4 jerseys there for under $30. Try that anywhere else. They have great materials and lots of colors. No sleeves, short sleeves, long sleeves. You name it. Plus no big stupid logos.

I guess I can justify the geopolitical impact by considering my purchase a donation to some pore person in Lesotho that never would have seen a dime if I wouldn't have purchased that shirt; on the other hand they probably only got paid a dime for that entire days worth of work. Your choice.
 
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#54 ·
Also, plan ahead. There are things you'll always need...Tubes, lube, tires, etc. If you are placing an order on-line, wait until you think over everything you need, then place the order. Individual shipping costs add up quickly and can negate the savings of shopping on-line. Saving dollars starts a few pennies at a time.
Ebay may be good for some pricier individual parts but the shipping people charge is often rediculous.
 
#55 ·
My mother calls me "Fiscally Retentive"

1. Ride all the time. It keeps you out of the stores, off the internet, and out of the magazines where all the marketing money is spent to get you to buy. If you ride a ton (and skip a dessert or beer once in a while), you lose more weight on your body than you would be able to lose on the bike by buying light parts. If you ride a bunch, you will find that you are passing many of the folks on the expensive machinery. After all, it is not the machine, but the motor.

2. Pay no attention to what anyone else says or thinks about you or your bike.

3. Wrench your own stuff. You might as well know how in case you are on a trail and your forgot your mechanic. I'd love to stop and help, but I have to get home to dinner.

4. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Buy good stuff and ride it 'til it breaks. Don't upgrade for the sake of upgrading. I get several thousand miles off road each year, but the newest of my two bikes is a 1998. I have a favorite seat that has a big tear in the middle and the leather is coming off both sides, but it is not dead yet. I also ride tires until they are practically bald.

5. Patch tubes until they won't fit into the tire anymore (just kidding - I usually have no more than 6 patches on a tube before the stem shears off). I buy extra patches for 12 cents apiece until all of the glue is gone in my patch kit. I just pile punctured tubes up in the garage until I get several and then fix them all at once. Usually fix 6-10 tubes in 1/2 hour and never had a patch fail. Once the stems are sheared off or the tubes are shot, buy in bulk (10 for $17).
 
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