If you've got a KS LEV that has started sinking, this should fix it. I started this thread quite a while ago and used feedback to improve on it. The process seems to consistently work based on feedback I've received. Just the simple process of recharging the system resolves the issue that results after air and oil mix in the chambers. Even without replacing seals, this seems to resolve the issue for a long time however I recently added the specs for the seals with an exploded view of the post so that you can replace them while you're in there. If you try this, please let me know how it goes. Also let me know if any steps are confusing or if you run into any other issues. I'll use your feedback to improve the thread.
DISCLAIMER: I've done this procedure A LOT. I started on my own LEV, and have since repaired numerous LEVs and Supernaturals. I initially went back into my own LEV multiple times to gain additional photos for this thread. Mine is still running smoothly and I only occasionally go back in to replace seals. I've refined this post to be as clear as possible and the method works great. I've also added some tips from mistakes I've made myself. That being said - ATTEMPT AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Good Luck,
-Chris
***************************************
***ATTENTION: Manufacturer Warning***
I have been contacted by the manufacturer and they have urged me to add this warning to this thread on their behalf:
"The procedure explained by the user in this thread is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS and could result in severe injury or death to the person performing this. These warnings are also clearly stated on our website and in our manuals. This posting may cause some consumers to disregard our warnings and severely injure themselves attempting this procedure listed."
"We at KS USA do NOT endorse the servicing of the oil system, it is factory sealed, and not to be opened by the user as the internals are under EXTREME PRESSURE!"
"We offer a 2 year warranty on our products, so if a customer is having an issue, they can send the post in to us and we will REPLACE the cartridge at no charge under warranty. If it is outside of the warranty period, the consumer can purchase a new cartridge assembly thru their local dealer."
Mike A from KS USA
***************************************
I'm starting the procedure after disconnecting the remote cable from the post and removing the post from the bike. If you have trouble with this, consult your owner's manual. Although there is a great instructional video at kssuspension.com to do the first 8 steps, I've included these anyway to demonstrate my technique for Step 5, which is far more difficult than appears in the video. Also pay attention to a warning in Step 7 to prevent damage to your DU Bushing. Alternatively, skip to Step 9 to get right to the cartridge section or to the near end to see the exploded view and links to replacement seals. I've also added a section regarding the Supernatural differences as this procedure works for it as well, with just a few modifications.
Step 1: With your post in the soft jaws of a vice, remove the end cap using a strap wrench to expose the actuator lever. If you have the 2nd Generation Integra, see differences below (towards the end of this thread).
![]()
Step 2: Compress the actuator lever to slacken the internal cable. Rotate the end barrel in order to disconnect it from the lever.
![]()
Step 3: Gently pull the cable snug and tape it against the outside of the post with electrical tape.
![]()
Step 4: Push the post through or carefully pull on the actuator assembly to expose the inner shaft. Then spray clean with alcohol to prepare for the next step.
![]()
Step 5: Remove the LEV from the soft jaws, protect the exposed shaft with a portion of rubber inner tube, then place it in the soft jaws and snug it just enough to prevent the shaft from rotating while you loosen the actuator assembly with a wrench. Alternatively, you could use a rubberized soft jaws like this (but I don't tend to have good luck with it):
http://www.amazon.com/Brampton-Tech...002EBX3CU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416614442&sr=8-1&keywords=golf+club+vice+grip
**THIS STEP MAY BE VERY DIFFICULT DUE TO A STRONG THREAD LOCK ADHESIVE - THE ACTUATOR LEVER IS A SOFT METAL AND CAN BEND EASILY - TAKE CARE NOT TO DAMAGE IT - ** (((EDIT))): LESS TOOLS ARE BETTER HERE IF POSSIBLE - SOME ACTUATORS MAY NOT BE AS DIFFICULT TO REMOVE AS OTHERS - VICRIDER222 RECOMMENDS THIS TECHNIQUE: "You will get as much if not more grip by putting on a clean, tight fitting household latex glove and grabbing the degreased shaft with your hand…keep your thumb out, place the shaft along the base of your 4 fingers and close them. Squeeze them as tight as you can, then turn the actuator base with your other hand"
Step 5 by Christopher Kelly, on Flickr
Step 6: Remove the actuator assembly, the rubber bottom-out bumper, and the piston/push rod - **NOTE THAT THERE IS A LONG END AND SHORT END OF THE PUSH ROD - THE LONG END NEEDS TO FACE OUT TOWARD THE ACTUATOR**
![]()
![]()
![]()
Step 7: Loosen the top collar with a strap wrench, then remove the cartridge assembly from the outer shaft. Be carefull not to lose the 3 copper guide bushings on the cartridge assembly. **WARNING - On the KS video, the shaft is yanked with some force so that the copper guide bushings knock the silver DU Bushing out. This works most of the time however if the DU Bushing is stuck, you may blow the inner coated ring out of the DU Bushing (See pic below). You can avoid this by removing the black top collar, then protecting the stanchion with a towel and grasping the DU Bushing CAREFULLY with channel locks and twisting it back and forth slightly to help loosen it (Pictured below though stanchion is not covered to make it easier to see). If you do blow out the DU Bushing, it's OK. They can be purchased at Universal Cycle
![]()
WARNING - avoid this at Step 7
![]()
The picture above can be avoided by loosening the DU Bushing using channel locks as pictured below (be sure to protect the stanchion first - (not done here for visability). You just need to twist the DU Bushing slightly in order to make sure it's not seized before giving the firm pull mentioned in Step 7. BE SUPER CAREFUL IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO THIS AS YOU CAN EASILY SCRATCH THE STANCHION - I KEEP SPARE DU BUSHINGS AROUND BECAUSE I PREFER TO REPLACE IF THEY BREAK RATHER THAN RISK SCRATCHING THE POST
![]()
Step 8: Remove the 3 copper guide bushings, then slide off the DU bushing, collar, and bottom of the seat clasp
![]()
![]()
Step 9: Unscrew the Schrader valve cover and release the pressure from the system using a screwdriver/nail/etc.
![]()
![]()
Step 10: **EYE PROTECTION AND POINT AWAY FROM YOUR FACE - SEE MANUFACTURER WARNING ABOVE BEFORE ATTEMPTING** Using snap ring pliers (or better yet, a spanner tool - Park SPA-2), unscrew the cap of the cartridge, lift the cap slightly, and dump out the oil. There may be a loud "pop" of pressure releasing when you loosen the cap.
![]()
![]()
Step 11: Flip the cartridge around and use your finger to push the Schrader valve assembly and the other internals through the cartridge as one entity. You may need to use a dowel rod or protected screwdriver to push it all the way through.
![]()
![]()
![]()
Step 11 b: You can now break the internals down further as pictured below - **WHEN REMOVING THE SLIDING PIECE OF BLACK PLASTIC (INTERNAL FLOATING PISTON - IFP) FROM THE METAL TUBE IT'S ON, IT IS VERY DIFFICULT TO GET BACK ON BECAUSE OF A VERY TIGHT SQUARE GASKET ON THE INNER SURFACE - SEE TRICK MENTIONED BELOW TO REINSTALL IFP ONTO TUBE**
![]()
**BE CAREFUL REINSTALLING THIS - YOU CAN SEE THE INNER SEAL HERE THAT I DAMAGED TRYING TO GET THIS THING BACK ON THE METAL TUBE** The best technique to get the IFP back on the tube was demonstrated by "chukt" on page 14 of this thread. Simply use a Craftsman 10 mm socket - it has the same outer diameter as the tube. The IFP can easily be slid onto the socket over the rounded edge, then slide the IFP directly off the socket and onto the tube.
![]()
Step 12: Next, replace the valve assembly and the metal tube with the IFP on it. You will want the IFP approx. 2-3 mm away from the end opposite to the valve assembly end. You can assemble these and insert them as one entity. The IFP may need to be guided using your finger to keep it from slipping up further as you replace the tube it's on. You can also reinstall the cartridge end cap after this step to help push it down approximately 3 mm.
![]()
![]()
![]()
Step 13: Add Fork Oil (I use 5 WT) to fill the cartridge at least to the bottom thread (though I go a little farther for good measure).
![]()
Step 13 b: Preparation for step 14: When I went back into my own LEV, I noticed that the coated inner rod on the damper assembly was partially unthreaded (you can see a small gap just below the coated shaft on the first picture below - the second picture is after I rethreaded it down tight). This should be checked before step 14 because if it's unthreaded slightly, the actuator push rod within the shaft will not be able to fully reach and activate the dropper. You will need to unthread this anyway if you plan to replace the seal in there.
![]()
![]()
Step 14: Insert the push rod (being sure the long end faces out toward the actuator). Then install the push rod cover. This will allow you to open the valve as you insert it into the oil in step 14 b.
![]()
![]()
Step 14 b: While depressing the actuator piston to open the valve, insert the damper assembly through the oil and down into the inner metal tube of the cartridge assembly just until the gold coated part is leveled with the top end of the inner tube. Oil should be overflowing as you do this, which should prevent air in the chamber. Tighten the cap using the spanner/snap ring pliers. **USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THIS AS THE CAP TENDS TO WANT TO CROSS THREAD - ALSO, IF YOU START TO GET RESISTANCE WHILE THREADING, IT HELPS TO TIGHTEN A LITTLE, THEN DEPRESS THE PISTON, TIGHTEN A LITTLE MORE, DEPRESS, AND SO ON**
![]()
14b3 by Christopher Kelly, on Flickr
14b2 by Christopher Kelly, on Flickr
Step 15: Use a shock pump to add pressure to 150-250 psi. After you've added some air, depress the actuator piston to be sure the post is fully extended before filling to the desired pressure. After you've added air, with the internal shaft fully extended, you can attempt compressing it against your workbench - if it doesn't sag, you've succeeded in eliminating the sag issue.
CSC_0081 by Christopher Kelly, on Flickr
CSC_0084 by Christopher Kelly, on Flickr
Step 16 to finish: Simply follow the KS video to finish the reassembly. Here's the video:
KS LEV Service - YouTube
**One problem you may run into is when threading on the post end cap. As advised by the video, you thread it on until the last few threads, then use the remote to activate and compress the post before tightening the last few threads. If the post won't stay in the down position, tighten the end cap a little more and try again before you freak out.
Please let me know how this goes if you try it. Additionally, if there are any really confusing areas or you feel there is some editing I need to do, please let me know.
Also, thanks to everyone for the tips on posting, using Photobucket, and improving my technique.
Good Luck
-Chris
*Additional Useful Information:
If the internal cable is broken, replacement is pretty easy following this video from the KS Website: KS LEV Service - YouTube
Ron Easton used to be pretty good about mailing you replacement parts but it seems things have changed and now they direct you to your local dealer. If you're impatient like me, I've listed ways to have an endless supply of cable and isolator pellets to do this repair. (You can reuse the metal end barrels, but you need to use a lighter to melt the old isolator pellet out of there before passing the new cable through).
1 mm Braided Kevlar Kite String:
Free Shipping 100ft 250lb Braided Kevlar Line for Fishing Camping Kite Flying | eBay
"Isolator Pellets" This is bean bag filler - they're a little big but you can easily snip them down smaller with wire cutters to get the size you need:
Darice Bean Bag Filler Plastic Pellets, 16 oz: Crafts : Walmart.com
If you prefer the actual parts, Art's Cyclery is a great source
Barrel (missing the grub screw which can also be purchased at this site) *Again, you can reuse your originals - just use a lighter to melt out the old isolator pellet:
Kind Shock Lev Barrel Cable Clamp Each
Cable:
Kind Shock Lev Kevlar Link Cable
Another great source for a lot of KS parts:
Universal Cycles -- Kind Shock Seatpost Service Parts
Lastly:
I ran into this issue while examining my buddy's broken LEV. His actuator lever assembly actually busted through the bottom of the post end cap. There is a lip on the actuator assembly that makes contact with a lip inside the end cap and it appears this holds the entire weight of the rider. In the picture here, you'll see the lip is "stripped" on both the actuator and cap (using an allen key in the photo to point it out). When weight is placed on the saddle, the post begins to sink into the cap, eventually breaking the internal cable, then jamming the lever against the bottom of the cap. Once the lever hits the bottom, the post is locked into the activated mode (sinks when weighted, rises when standing). Be sure you examine yours if you dismantle it.
photo 1 by Christopher Kelly, on Flickr
photo 2 by Christopher Kelly, on Flickr
LEV EXPLODED VIEW AND SEAL SPECS (LABELED BY MODEL NUMBER):
LEV Seal Specs by Christopher Kelly, on Flickr
B70016 -016 B70 (NBR) Buna-N Nitrile 70 Duro O-Ring [B70016] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
N2.00X008 2mm X 8mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N2.00X008] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
B70009 -009 B70 (NBR) Buna-N Nitrile 70 Duro O-Ring [B70009] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
QR-109 109 Buna-N 70 X-Rings / Quad-Rings [QR-109] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
B90007 -007 B90 (NBR) Buna-N Nitrile 90 Duro O-Ring [B90007] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
N1.00X002 (X2) 1mm X 2mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N1.00X002] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
QR-113 113 Buna-N 70 X-Rings / Quad-Rings [QR-113] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
QR-114
114 Buna-N 70 X-Rings / Quad-Rings [QR-114] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
MUU-10X15X3 MUU-10X15X3 Urethane Metric U-Seal [MUU-10X15X3] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
N2.00X017 2mm X 17mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N2.00X017] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
______________________________________________________
_____________LEV INTEGRA DIFFERENCES__________________
If you have the 2nd Generation LEV Integra, the initial steps will be slightly different.
Step 1:
With your post in the soft jaws, use a crescent wrench to unthread the bottom assembly from the black casing as shown below.
IMG_4330 by Christopher Kelly, on Flickr
Then simply skip to step 4.
_________________________________________________________
_____________SUPERNATURAL DIFFERENCES___________________
This is something I originally posted later on page 1 of this thread. I recently tried to edit it and received a forbidden message for some reason so I'm tacking it on here.
My wife's Supernatural needed a little more work than I anticipated tonight so I took advantage of the opportunity and created an exploded view of the post for comparison to the LEV (note that when you reassemble this post, it's actually better to have the IFP at the opposite end than is pictured below):
View attachment 873238
Of course once I got the thing apart, I realized that these are factory charged and there initially appeared to be no way to recharge the system. Luckily, there were other threads online with people who experienced the same sinking feeling.
There's actually a very small hole within one of the craters on the cartridge end cap - this is the area where snap ring pliers are used to remove the cap:
View attachment 873241
This hole connects through to an even smaller pinhole beneath the lower o-ring on the cartridge cap. I've removed the o-ring in the picture below to reveal the pinhole:
View attachment 873240
Once the cartridge is reassembled and you're ready to add air, you have to get a little creative as some other threads have mentioned. I used a basketball inflater wrapped with electrical tape (there's got to be a better attachment that seals better - let me know if you're familiar with this) and my shock pump. **EDIT - you can actually use the inner plastic tubing from a standard piece of derailleurs cable housing around the inflator tip**
View attachment 873239
Downside is that you can't really get an accurate read on pressure so I just added a little at a time until I got the desired speed of activation. **EDIT - this is not true. You can get an accurate reading. I use the LEV guidelines of 150-250 psi
The other difference over the LEV is that the air chamber is on the opposite end so oil is added a little differently.
When I reassembled this, I pushed the IFP down into the cartridge by itself first, then replaced the middle tube and pressed it down in (luckily it didn't give me problems like the IFP on my LEV). **EDIT - a better way is to keep the IFP on the inner tube and insert them together, then using a thin dowel or other rod, push the IFP down into place**
I then filled that inner tube with 5 wt. oil nearly to the brim, then installed the final inner shaft into the oil (I had to depress the activator lever against my workbench as I installed the inner shaft - only as far as needed to then replace the cartridge end cap)
Next, screwed the end cap on and added air with the terrible taped-up needle tip. Post is working great now so I got lucky. Wasn't exactly a smooth process and took way longer to figure out than I care to admit but it's done now and I figured this may help someone along the way.
Sorry for the rough layout and poor quality photos.
**EDIT - I've since done this on another Supernatural that continues to run flawlessly**
-Chris
DISCLAIMER: I've done this procedure A LOT. I started on my own LEV, and have since repaired numerous LEVs and Supernaturals. I initially went back into my own LEV multiple times to gain additional photos for this thread. Mine is still running smoothly and I only occasionally go back in to replace seals. I've refined this post to be as clear as possible and the method works great. I've also added some tips from mistakes I've made myself. That being said - ATTEMPT AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Good Luck,
-Chris
***************************************
***ATTENTION: Manufacturer Warning***
I have been contacted by the manufacturer and they have urged me to add this warning to this thread on their behalf:
"The procedure explained by the user in this thread is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS and could result in severe injury or death to the person performing this. These warnings are also clearly stated on our website and in our manuals. This posting may cause some consumers to disregard our warnings and severely injure themselves attempting this procedure listed."
"We at KS USA do NOT endorse the servicing of the oil system, it is factory sealed, and not to be opened by the user as the internals are under EXTREME PRESSURE!"
"We offer a 2 year warranty on our products, so if a customer is having an issue, they can send the post in to us and we will REPLACE the cartridge at no charge under warranty. If it is outside of the warranty period, the consumer can purchase a new cartridge assembly thru their local dealer."
Mike A from KS USA
***************************************
I'm starting the procedure after disconnecting the remote cable from the post and removing the post from the bike. If you have trouble with this, consult your owner's manual. Although there is a great instructional video at kssuspension.com to do the first 8 steps, I've included these anyway to demonstrate my technique for Step 5, which is far more difficult than appears in the video. Also pay attention to a warning in Step 7 to prevent damage to your DU Bushing. Alternatively, skip to Step 9 to get right to the cartridge section or to the near end to see the exploded view and links to replacement seals. I've also added a section regarding the Supernatural differences as this procedure works for it as well, with just a few modifications.
Step 1: With your post in the soft jaws of a vice, remove the end cap using a strap wrench to expose the actuator lever. If you have the 2nd Generation Integra, see differences below (towards the end of this thread).
Step 2: Compress the actuator lever to slacken the internal cable. Rotate the end barrel in order to disconnect it from the lever.
Step 3: Gently pull the cable snug and tape it against the outside of the post with electrical tape.
Step 4: Push the post through or carefully pull on the actuator assembly to expose the inner shaft. Then spray clean with alcohol to prepare for the next step.
Step 5: Remove the LEV from the soft jaws, protect the exposed shaft with a portion of rubber inner tube, then place it in the soft jaws and snug it just enough to prevent the shaft from rotating while you loosen the actuator assembly with a wrench. Alternatively, you could use a rubberized soft jaws like this (but I don't tend to have good luck with it):
http://www.amazon.com/Brampton-Tech...002EBX3CU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416614442&sr=8-1&keywords=golf+club+vice+grip
**THIS STEP MAY BE VERY DIFFICULT DUE TO A STRONG THREAD LOCK ADHESIVE - THE ACTUATOR LEVER IS A SOFT METAL AND CAN BEND EASILY - TAKE CARE NOT TO DAMAGE IT - ** (((EDIT))): LESS TOOLS ARE BETTER HERE IF POSSIBLE - SOME ACTUATORS MAY NOT BE AS DIFFICULT TO REMOVE AS OTHERS - VICRIDER222 RECOMMENDS THIS TECHNIQUE: "You will get as much if not more grip by putting on a clean, tight fitting household latex glove and grabbing the degreased shaft with your hand…keep your thumb out, place the shaft along the base of your 4 fingers and close them. Squeeze them as tight as you can, then turn the actuator base with your other hand"
Step 5 by Christopher Kelly, on FlickrStep 6: Remove the actuator assembly, the rubber bottom-out bumper, and the piston/push rod - **NOTE THAT THERE IS A LONG END AND SHORT END OF THE PUSH ROD - THE LONG END NEEDS TO FACE OUT TOWARD THE ACTUATOR**
Step 7: Loosen the top collar with a strap wrench, then remove the cartridge assembly from the outer shaft. Be carefull not to lose the 3 copper guide bushings on the cartridge assembly. **WARNING - On the KS video, the shaft is yanked with some force so that the copper guide bushings knock the silver DU Bushing out. This works most of the time however if the DU Bushing is stuck, you may blow the inner coated ring out of the DU Bushing (See pic below). You can avoid this by removing the black top collar, then protecting the stanchion with a towel and grasping the DU Bushing CAREFULLY with channel locks and twisting it back and forth slightly to help loosen it (Pictured below though stanchion is not covered to make it easier to see). If you do blow out the DU Bushing, it's OK. They can be purchased at Universal Cycle
WARNING - avoid this at Step 7
The picture above can be avoided by loosening the DU Bushing using channel locks as pictured below (be sure to protect the stanchion first - (not done here for visability). You just need to twist the DU Bushing slightly in order to make sure it's not seized before giving the firm pull mentioned in Step 7. BE SUPER CAREFUL IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO THIS AS YOU CAN EASILY SCRATCH THE STANCHION - I KEEP SPARE DU BUSHINGS AROUND BECAUSE I PREFER TO REPLACE IF THEY BREAK RATHER THAN RISK SCRATCHING THE POST
Step 8: Remove the 3 copper guide bushings, then slide off the DU bushing, collar, and bottom of the seat clasp
Step 9: Unscrew the Schrader valve cover and release the pressure from the system using a screwdriver/nail/etc.
Step 10: **EYE PROTECTION AND POINT AWAY FROM YOUR FACE - SEE MANUFACTURER WARNING ABOVE BEFORE ATTEMPTING** Using snap ring pliers (or better yet, a spanner tool - Park SPA-2), unscrew the cap of the cartridge, lift the cap slightly, and dump out the oil. There may be a loud "pop" of pressure releasing when you loosen the cap.
Step 11: Flip the cartridge around and use your finger to push the Schrader valve assembly and the other internals through the cartridge as one entity. You may need to use a dowel rod or protected screwdriver to push it all the way through.
Step 11 b: You can now break the internals down further as pictured below - **WHEN REMOVING THE SLIDING PIECE OF BLACK PLASTIC (INTERNAL FLOATING PISTON - IFP) FROM THE METAL TUBE IT'S ON, IT IS VERY DIFFICULT TO GET BACK ON BECAUSE OF A VERY TIGHT SQUARE GASKET ON THE INNER SURFACE - SEE TRICK MENTIONED BELOW TO REINSTALL IFP ONTO TUBE**
**BE CAREFUL REINSTALLING THIS - YOU CAN SEE THE INNER SEAL HERE THAT I DAMAGED TRYING TO GET THIS THING BACK ON THE METAL TUBE** The best technique to get the IFP back on the tube was demonstrated by "chukt" on page 14 of this thread. Simply use a Craftsman 10 mm socket - it has the same outer diameter as the tube. The IFP can easily be slid onto the socket over the rounded edge, then slide the IFP directly off the socket and onto the tube.
Step 12: Next, replace the valve assembly and the metal tube with the IFP on it. You will want the IFP approx. 2-3 mm away from the end opposite to the valve assembly end. You can assemble these and insert them as one entity. The IFP may need to be guided using your finger to keep it from slipping up further as you replace the tube it's on. You can also reinstall the cartridge end cap after this step to help push it down approximately 3 mm.
Step 13: Add Fork Oil (I use 5 WT) to fill the cartridge at least to the bottom thread (though I go a little farther for good measure).
Step 13 b: Preparation for step 14: When I went back into my own LEV, I noticed that the coated inner rod on the damper assembly was partially unthreaded (you can see a small gap just below the coated shaft on the first picture below - the second picture is after I rethreaded it down tight). This should be checked before step 14 because if it's unthreaded slightly, the actuator push rod within the shaft will not be able to fully reach and activate the dropper. You will need to unthread this anyway if you plan to replace the seal in there.
Step 14: Insert the push rod (being sure the long end faces out toward the actuator). Then install the push rod cover. This will allow you to open the valve as you insert it into the oil in step 14 b.
Step 14 b: While depressing the actuator piston to open the valve, insert the damper assembly through the oil and down into the inner metal tube of the cartridge assembly just until the gold coated part is leveled with the top end of the inner tube. Oil should be overflowing as you do this, which should prevent air in the chamber. Tighten the cap using the spanner/snap ring pliers. **USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THIS AS THE CAP TENDS TO WANT TO CROSS THREAD - ALSO, IF YOU START TO GET RESISTANCE WHILE THREADING, IT HELPS TO TIGHTEN A LITTLE, THEN DEPRESS THE PISTON, TIGHTEN A LITTLE MORE, DEPRESS, AND SO ON**
14b3 by Christopher Kelly, on Flickr14b2 by Christopher Kelly, on FlickrStep 15: Use a shock pump to add pressure to 150-250 psi. After you've added some air, depress the actuator piston to be sure the post is fully extended before filling to the desired pressure. After you've added air, with the internal shaft fully extended, you can attempt compressing it against your workbench - if it doesn't sag, you've succeeded in eliminating the sag issue.
CSC_0081 by Christopher Kelly, on FlickrCSC_0084 by Christopher Kelly, on FlickrStep 16 to finish: Simply follow the KS video to finish the reassembly. Here's the video:
KS LEV Service - YouTube
**One problem you may run into is when threading on the post end cap. As advised by the video, you thread it on until the last few threads, then use the remote to activate and compress the post before tightening the last few threads. If the post won't stay in the down position, tighten the end cap a little more and try again before you freak out.
Please let me know how this goes if you try it. Additionally, if there are any really confusing areas or you feel there is some editing I need to do, please let me know.
Also, thanks to everyone for the tips on posting, using Photobucket, and improving my technique.
Good Luck
-Chris
*Additional Useful Information:
If the internal cable is broken, replacement is pretty easy following this video from the KS Website: KS LEV Service - YouTube
Ron Easton used to be pretty good about mailing you replacement parts but it seems things have changed and now they direct you to your local dealer. If you're impatient like me, I've listed ways to have an endless supply of cable and isolator pellets to do this repair. (You can reuse the metal end barrels, but you need to use a lighter to melt the old isolator pellet out of there before passing the new cable through).
1 mm Braided Kevlar Kite String:
Free Shipping 100ft 250lb Braided Kevlar Line for Fishing Camping Kite Flying | eBay
"Isolator Pellets" This is bean bag filler - they're a little big but you can easily snip them down smaller with wire cutters to get the size you need:
Darice Bean Bag Filler Plastic Pellets, 16 oz: Crafts : Walmart.com
If you prefer the actual parts, Art's Cyclery is a great source
Barrel (missing the grub screw which can also be purchased at this site) *Again, you can reuse your originals - just use a lighter to melt out the old isolator pellet:
Kind Shock Lev Barrel Cable Clamp Each
Cable:
Kind Shock Lev Kevlar Link Cable
Another great source for a lot of KS parts:
Universal Cycles -- Kind Shock Seatpost Service Parts
Lastly:
I ran into this issue while examining my buddy's broken LEV. His actuator lever assembly actually busted through the bottom of the post end cap. There is a lip on the actuator assembly that makes contact with a lip inside the end cap and it appears this holds the entire weight of the rider. In the picture here, you'll see the lip is "stripped" on both the actuator and cap (using an allen key in the photo to point it out). When weight is placed on the saddle, the post begins to sink into the cap, eventually breaking the internal cable, then jamming the lever against the bottom of the cap. Once the lever hits the bottom, the post is locked into the activated mode (sinks when weighted, rises when standing). Be sure you examine yours if you dismantle it.
photo 1 by Christopher Kelly, on Flickrphoto 2 by Christopher Kelly, on FlickrLEV EXPLODED VIEW AND SEAL SPECS (LABELED BY MODEL NUMBER):
LEV Seal Specs by Christopher Kelly, on FlickrB70016 -016 B70 (NBR) Buna-N Nitrile 70 Duro O-Ring [B70016] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
N2.00X008 2mm X 8mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N2.00X008] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
B70009 -009 B70 (NBR) Buna-N Nitrile 70 Duro O-Ring [B70009] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
QR-109 109 Buna-N 70 X-Rings / Quad-Rings [QR-109] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
B90007 -007 B90 (NBR) Buna-N Nitrile 90 Duro O-Ring [B90007] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!
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_____________LEV INTEGRA DIFFERENCES__________________
If you have the 2nd Generation LEV Integra, the initial steps will be slightly different.
Step 1:
With your post in the soft jaws, use a crescent wrench to unthread the bottom assembly from the black casing as shown below.
IMG_4330 by Christopher Kelly, on FlickrThen simply skip to step 4.
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_____________SUPERNATURAL DIFFERENCES___________________
This is something I originally posted later on page 1 of this thread. I recently tried to edit it and received a forbidden message for some reason so I'm tacking it on here.
My wife's Supernatural needed a little more work than I anticipated tonight so I took advantage of the opportunity and created an exploded view of the post for comparison to the LEV (note that when you reassemble this post, it's actually better to have the IFP at the opposite end than is pictured below):
View attachment 873238
Of course once I got the thing apart, I realized that these are factory charged and there initially appeared to be no way to recharge the system. Luckily, there were other threads online with people who experienced the same sinking feeling.
There's actually a very small hole within one of the craters on the cartridge end cap - this is the area where snap ring pliers are used to remove the cap:
View attachment 873241
This hole connects through to an even smaller pinhole beneath the lower o-ring on the cartridge cap. I've removed the o-ring in the picture below to reveal the pinhole:
View attachment 873240
Once the cartridge is reassembled and you're ready to add air, you have to get a little creative as some other threads have mentioned. I used a basketball inflater wrapped with electrical tape (there's got to be a better attachment that seals better - let me know if you're familiar with this) and my shock pump. **EDIT - you can actually use the inner plastic tubing from a standard piece of derailleurs cable housing around the inflator tip**
View attachment 873239
Downside is that you can't really get an accurate read on pressure so I just added a little at a time until I got the desired speed of activation. **EDIT - this is not true. You can get an accurate reading. I use the LEV guidelines of 150-250 psi
The other difference over the LEV is that the air chamber is on the opposite end so oil is added a little differently.
When I reassembled this, I pushed the IFP down into the cartridge by itself first, then replaced the middle tube and pressed it down in (luckily it didn't give me problems like the IFP on my LEV). **EDIT - a better way is to keep the IFP on the inner tube and insert them together, then using a thin dowel or other rod, push the IFP down into place**
I then filled that inner tube with 5 wt. oil nearly to the brim, then installed the final inner shaft into the oil (I had to depress the activator lever against my workbench as I installed the inner shaft - only as far as needed to then replace the cartridge end cap)
Next, screwed the end cap on and added air with the terrible taped-up needle tip. Post is working great now so I got lucky. Wasn't exactly a smooth process and took way longer to figure out than I care to admit but it's done now and I figured this may help someone along the way.
Sorry for the rough layout and poor quality photos.
**EDIT - I've since done this on another Supernatural that continues to run flawlessly**
-Chris
