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Longterm durability of SRAM 1x drivetrain components?

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backinmysaddle

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I've had an XO 11spd drivetrain, purchased new in December, and I am starting to have some serious doubts about whether this is real stuff or just some light weight bling they developed for racers.
Over the last few weeks I've developed a slight grinding noise.

Today my very well regarded mechanic took a look and here is what he reported:
(1) chain is within tolerance, getting near needing replacement
(2) rear cassette looks like it is years old, they cannot believe the wear. The 42t ring is in awful shape (it's aluminum after all) and it actually looks slightly warped
(3) I replaced the SRAM 32t spider with a 28t Wolf Tooth ring. That is completely shot, it's actually causing the chain to suck when I pedal hard (that's the grind noise I started to hear recently)
(4) the XO rear derailleur clutch isnt really doing much any more, and the pulley wheels are showing some significant wear.

At this point, they say stick a new 28t ring and chain on and see if that reduces the noise. But they said a new rear derailleur and cassette are in my future.

I'm an average rider, about 200 lbs and while I admittedly love riding up steeps I am not a hard rider. This all comes as a real surprise to me, I'm not a racer, I clean and lube things as needed and I am very gentle shifting. I took an almost no expenses barred approach to this built and really liked what I got out of the box, but it doesnt seem to be built to last. By comparison, I have an XT equipped 2011 hard tail and just now am replacing the drivetrain (I went XT 2x10 based on how crappy this SRAM drivetrain is holding up).

Any insight or thoughts? I have a new hub that I can swap out with a Shimano driver and go Shimano 11sp. I sure am loathe to buy another SRAM derailleur and cassette if I can only expect 8 months out of it!
 
#2 ·
Chain line and chain length.
When one or both are less than optimal for the specific bike/frame, SRAM 1x set ups can wear out quickly.
Trick is knowing when things aren't quite right, because the system is initially tolerant of less than optimal chain line and chain length.
Type2 derailluers and pullies can die an early death when chains are a bit too short.
Front chainrings go quicker than expected and get noisy depending on chainline with SRAM 1x11. Will be interesting to see what the new SRAM steel rings do.
If you spend a good amount of time in the 42T in the rear it will wear quickly. Haven't seen a way around that yet without sending the wear someplace else in the system.
I've got a hacked together Shimano 1x10 with a 40T rear and 32T front and the chainline is great throughout most of the cassette. Front chainring and 40T last far longer than my SRAM 1x11 set up and I'm in my 32x40 for many long and steep climbs.
I'm still on my original SRAM 1x11 cassette on my Tallboy LTC but I'm on my 3rd front ring,second chain, and second rear d pulleys.
 
#3 ·
Hi - sorry to say, but your well regarded mechanic probably listens to SRAM and thinks a park tool chain checker is the bees knees.

Both are far from the truth.

Your chain is well stretched and needs replacement ASAP if not 2 months ago at least . Don't let a SRAM chain on 11 speed get to 1/16th long over 11 links ( measured with a steel rule not those deplorable chain checkers).

My cassette made 5000km 90% off road, steep muddy climbs in paste that wrecks an XT cassette in 1500km. BUT that is with 5 chains changed over one new front ring which was then flipped to other direction ( so call it 3 front chain rings, and 5 chains )

No wear on pulleys, no wear on 42t , but the cassette did self destruct and was changing gears a little slowly though still working fine.

As soon as rear changes get even slightly slow, the chain needs to be changed, if there is a grinding noise, front ring needs to be changed ( or it will stretch your chains quickly)

Note - SRAM has been completely incompetent with their own recommendations on how to care for this drivetrain ( eg originally saying to never change the chain - idiots!)
 
#4 ·
As pharmaboy mentioned above, chain checkers are useless.

Let me say that again. Chain checkers are useless.

Use a good steel spoke ruler for checking chain wear.Measure it out. Anyone who uses a chain checker at a bike shop is an uninformed hack and probably shouldn't be trusted with any bike maintenance.

I have about 12,000km on my two XX1 cassettes, and the shifting is still great. How? I regularly check my chains, throw on new chainrings when needed, and keep my drivetrain clean and well lubed.
 
#5 ·
Le Duke said:
As pharmaboy mentioned above, chain checkers are useless.

Let me say that again. Chain checkers are useless.

Use a good steel spoke ruler for checking chain wear.Measure it out. Anyone who uses a chain checker at a bike shop is an uninformed hack and probably shouldn't be trusted with any bike maintenance.

I have about 12,000km on my two XX1 cassettes, and the shifting is still great. How? I regularly check my chains, throw on new chainrings when needed, and keep my drivetrain clean and well lubed.
Click to expand...
Good article on the fact http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html
 
#7 ·
Not sure if this was addressed to me, but I buy the cheapest chains I can find. Usually SRAM. They are a disposable wear item. I picked up two for $45 from Backcountry a while back.
 
#9 ·
Le Duke said:
As pharmaboy mentioned above, chain checkers are useless.

Let me say that again. Chain checkers are useless.
Click to expand...
True, but if you already own one of the useless chain checkers, they can be "hacked" be simply grinding/filing a bit of metal off the short side.

OK, I'll admit that I'm too lazy (and my eyes are too old) to be measuring chains.

Really, we've all know this about chain checkers for a long time, so Park Tool -- who aren't idiots -- should have figured it out by now, too.

Also, first one to make a quality 1 x 11 cassette with a steel 42t retires early, with plenty of dough. How much weight could it add, maybe 50 grams?
 
#11 ·
J.B. Weld said:
Let me say this. You're wrong.

That said I never use one on my own chain because I usually replace it well before any measuring method would indicate that it is worn.
Click to expand...
What they mean is that they shouldn't be used for 1x11 chains. So in this case, they are 'useless' (because they will give you false indication of whether or not you should replace your chain). 1x11 chains need to be replaced much sooner than any other chain (1/16 vs 1/12), so a traditional chain checker will be of no value to anyone running 1x11
 
#12 ·
HSracer said:
What they mean is that they shouldn't be used for 1x11 chains. So in this case, they are 'useless' (because they will give you false indication of whether or not you should replace your chain). 1x11 chains need to be replaced much sooner than any other chain (1/16 vs 1/12), so a traditional chain checker will be of no value to anyone running 1x11
Click to expand...
Yeah, I realize that but I also never agreed with any of the recommend indications for non-11 speed chains, I use them for reference only. I was just countering Dukes contention because I found them very useful and reliable for diagnostic purposes when working in shops.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Thanks for confirmation of my suspicions that this stuff is lightweight but not really durable.

Wow, looks like I hit a nerve by referencing chain wear measurement, funny I didn't actually say my mechanic used one of those park tools ;-)

I guess I'll order one of the steel SRAM rings and see if that helps, looking further it is clear that the front ring is toasted, I just didnt expect that so quickly.

The 42t rear is also really not in great shape, but I doubt it is causing noise at this point. I guess if they are going to build that out of aluminum they should have made it replaceable... Looking forward to the industry coming back to their senses and building an all steel cassette that weighs in at a few extra ounces but actually lasts a year...
 
#16 ·
I think that the fact you're using a 28T is the reason you worn out your drivetrain so fast.

The chainring is made of alloy after all. But because of how fast it spins -when comparing to a 32T or a 34T- you wearing out the drivetrain much faster.

There is a good old trick, one that our grandfathers used to do a lot in Europe back in the days- run with 3 chains, swap them after every ride and replace them at 0.70mm of stretch. It does the job!

When it comes to Sram, not a surprised with what you said. Many of their products are not made to last and/or are not well made at all. Many internet home mechanics here will disagree. Some will say they have a great customer service, and they do have a great customer or tech service. But guys, I don't have to waste my time doing warranties with Shimano XT/XTR at the shop, it works and it's reliable. I forgot how much e-type derailleur or X.01 shifter I sent to Sram ...

Don't give up on 1 by 11 yet. Go with a steel made chainring or your crank for a XT M8000 -shimano steel chainring are bombproof- and replace as much X.01 with XT M8000.
 
#17 ·
euskafreez said:
Don't give up on 1 by 11 yet. Go with a steel made chainring or your crank for a XT M8000 -shimano steel chainring are bombproof- and replace as much X.01 with XT M8000.
Click to expand...
Is there ANY source for a steel chainring for 30t chainring for an X1 crank?

I can't seem to find one.

Can't imagine the weight penalty would be that great, and this is my trail bike, no gram counting required!
 
#19 ·
euskafreez said:
Sram just released NW steel made chainring. The weight penalty is not too much of a problem. A 28T made of steel will last way longer.
Click to expand...
With my luck, it will only be for the XX1 64mm bcd, and not the (stupid) 94mm of my X1 crank.

I can buy a lot of chains and aluminum chainrings before I'm anywhere near the cost of swapping out to an XX1 crank.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
The SRAM rings are not yet available anywhere, I asked my bike store to inquire and see when stock will be shipping.
As a result, I wound up pulling the trigger on the Wolf Tooth stainless steel model (only comes in 24t though). I was out for a 20 mile ride today and realized I am going to have to fix this ASAP. I also grabbed a new 42t Wolf Tooth ring to replace the ring on my SRAM cassette. It looks fairly easy to pry the spent one off and push the new one on. I'll be in $250 at that point with a new chain. Hopefully that will get me more than 8 months!
 
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