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amillion3

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Looking to buy a Jekyll 600 today. I cannot determine the specific model of Lefty it is though. I owned a Jekyll with a Lefty Jake a few years back that was fantastic after it was PUSHed.

Owner says the lockout doesn't work, and I'm slightly concerned I won't be able to get it serviced. Mendon Cycle Smith will be my first point of contact, obviously!

Photo here.

Any thoughts?
 
Looks like a 2001 Lefty Titanium 100mm DLR. On mine it has the word Titanium embossed on the bottom part that has the stub-axle for hub. It is written vertically on the front of it. This whole part, stub-axle, is forged?/machined from titanium. I have an earlier Lefty from 2000 that has this stub-axle made from steel and the axle is welded to it. You could ask seller for more pics showing Lefty from different angle to see if it has titanium written on it.

As you say Mendon will know for sure.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thanks jokipea. I checked it out and bought it last night. I didn't see the word titanium embossed anywhere obvious. However, Craig confirmed what you are saying via email:

"DLR Titanium, 100mm for 26".

Quite serviceable, assuming the thing hasn't been messed with by ill tooled up mechanics.

I have races, bearings, boots, seals, etc, but not much in the way of hard damper parts if something has been damaged.....

Lockout in the back doesn't work? Can't help with that, but lockout in front not working? Should be able to rectify that."
 
Curious.

May be an early cross over year model.

Is the axle stub welded, or smooth?

Regardless, the rest of what I said stands.

Nice pick up, if it's in good shape, those things are the cockroaches of Lefty land. A nuke could go off, and they'd be the last forks standing.....
 
When I got my Titanium Lefty off eBay all it needed was new oil in damper. It's worked fine ever since with the occasional lubing of bearing races. I'm assuming you have a Castle Tool? Lucky for me that my local big bike shop in Edinburgh which used to be a Cannondale main dealer, had a Lefty Castle Tool with the kidney attachment in their New Year sale shortly after I bought Lefty. Bargain at less than $13.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
The axle stub is smooth, no welds. As I understand it, that means it's titanium, neat.

I'm guessing most of the Ti models are embossed like this?

I don't own a castle tool and I apparently should figure out basic maintenance on this thing before much more riding. I was on a rigid SS 29er last, so it's a bit different than that. :cool:

Photo 1

Photo 2
 
There is an almost bewildering number of different Headshok/Lefty tools to choose from.
Some are now no longer available new so eBay may come in handy. You really need the Castle tool if you want to remove the damper cartridge, if you try without there will be tears.

I have 2 different Lefty tools,
this one here which I got for less than $13
Cannondale Castle Tool KT004 ? Qwerty Cycles

It's in 2 parts and is generally called the kidney tool and it fits the Lefty you have.

Here is my other Lefty/Headshok tool like this
Cannondale Super Castle Lefty + Headshok Cartridge Removal Tool - KH031
that is supposed to be able to remove cartridges from all Headshoks and Leftys, it's called the Super Castle Tool. It isn't. Of the 2 Leftys I have and 4 maybe 5 Headshoks, it will work on the Titanium Lefty but it certainly won't work on the earlier 2000 Lefty I have. It requires another different Castle tool similar to the first Castle tool above but without the kidney part and with smaller teeth on the main part of tool. The Super Castle tool won't work on one of the Headshoks I have as the top cap on damper shaft, that screws into top of Lefty is slightly too big in diameter to fit inside the Super Castle tool.

Just Google Cannondale Castle tool and have a look at the images generated to see some of the different tools there are. There are other specific tools required too if you want to dismantle and rebuild with new needle bearings although you will find info to see how to do it without them. Me, I'm leaving well alone till the bearings are worn, I lube them regularly to keep them OK so hopefully they'll last a while yet.
 
My two cents, regardless of whether you DIY or have someone else do it?

Just swapping oil without replacing seals is asking for trouble as they often tear upon being snugged up again as the oil hardens/brittles them a bit, but you wouldn't see it and a leak is created. Just replacing the easily replaced seals because you can, ignores the deeper ones, and you'll end up with the same issues as not doing any at all. They also flatten out and stop working as well over time.

Rebuilding the telescope at the same time as you do a full damper rebuild, also makes sense as it keeps everything on the same schedule and all parts need regular service. Much the same mindset at when doing a timing belt on the car, you do pulleys and water pump, since you're there, and it's half way apart towards that job anyway.

What you're advocating is akin to replacing half your stretched out chain because at least that section it will be better than it was before, but ignores the fact that everything else is aged out too.

Also, the bearings don't really "wear" with use or time. The races do, and you cannot see the sections most prone to wear without doing a full tear down.

YMMV.....
 
Craig, now that I try to remember what I actually did, I really only topped up the oil in the damper then bled it. Now you are going to say this is bad, baad, baaad. I know what you mean though. Before topping up with oil I could see there was no leak from shock, it was dry and subsequent damper removals to change/check air piston seals show there is no leak. But for there to have been a need to top up damper in first place it must have leaked, I hear you say. My thoughts too but where did it go? How did air get in? It's been OK ever since though.

I don't think I was advocating anything regarding doing a rebuild of a Lefty, part, full or half-arsed, just that I try to lube the telescope bearings as often as I should, I just used "bearings" as a general term for the telescope parts, and leave them alone as I don't have tools to do a proper job on them. When time comes I'll fork out the money for an expert to do it properly. All the measuring of tolerances to get them working properly is not something you can learn in a day as you know.

You've also reminded me it's getting near time to do the cambelt on my Passat 1.9TDI. That will be getting a new belt, tensioner pulley and water-pump. You almost have to remove the entire front of car to do it. It's a few years since I've needed to change a cambelt, on an old Scirocco GTX, just remove cambelt cover replace belt, done. No major dismantling, no requirement to change tensioner, a simpler job in simpler days for simple old me.
 
Yeah, the oil weeps slowly regardless, over time.

So while you may not have a leak that blows goo all over, it does, over time, thin down the grease that lubes the bearings.

All the more reason to do it all at the same time, viewed in that light.

The thing with regreasing the races visible beneath the boot? That gets grease onto about 2" of a race that is generally over 6" long. It doesn't get much if any, more than halfway up inside, once movement is accounted for.

It's really more of an exercise in visual inspection, as you may note some dirt, or rust, which would indicate the boot has a hole, and allows the user to be proactive about its replacement. It's not truly servicing much of anything.....

Glad I could help remind you to get your timing belt done. Wish I had the skills and tools to do that, as it's a freaking expensive job!!
 
Get what you are saying about a leak or weep. The grease doesn't look thinned down but then I've not seen inside a brand new Lefty.

The re-greasing thing was always something I worried about, not getting enough upwards inside the telescope. Usually let air out so it's easier to cycle it up and down to move grease upwards. It does disappear upwards.:) Need to think about getting it serviced then.


If you have the skills to service Leftys and such you can do a cambelt change. It's the thought of doing jobs like this that puts me off, once I commit to it, go through the procedure, it's OK.
Mind you, you do need a bigger hammer than you'd use on a Lefty though.:thumbsup:
 
If you have the skills to service Leftys and such you can do a cambelt change. It's the thought of doing jobs like this that puts me off, once I commit to it, go through the procedure, it's OK.
Mind you, you do need a bigger hammer than you'd use on a Lefty though.:thumbsup:
Thanks for the vote of confidence, but you have no idea how myopic my skill set is.... :)
 
Maybe not myopic but rather tunnel-vision by concentrating on Leftys.;)

I learned to fix cars when I got my first one, an old Mini, when I was 20.
Didn't have the money to pay someone else to do it so just got on with it having built and fixed my bikes through my teen years from crappy old bits, then a crappy old car, ignorance is bliss.
 
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