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How much stiffer is Boost 110/148?

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askibum02

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm currently riding a Niner ROS 9 with Flow EX wheels and I'm noticing a lot of flex. I should probably preface that by saying I'm 360 lbs though, so it's expected to have a little flex. I'm toying with the idea of getting a Stache 7 or 9 right now, mainly for the extra cushion and to hopefully get a little more stiffness in the wheels. I considered the Stache when I bought my Niner last year but the wheels scared me off. I'm not sure how Clyde friendly either hub is but I'm guessing the DT350's will hold up a little better than "Alloy Hubs." Hopefully CK or Hope will be along shortly with a Boost 148 hub in the near future anyway.


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Discussion starter · #3 ·
I wouldn't describe my current wheels as "noodly" but there is some flex if I'm seated and I go over a bump while leaned over in a turn. I realize at my size it I'll never find what lighter guys would describe as stiff, but is the Boost noticeably stiffer than 142X12 or is it about the same?
 
#4 ·
A lot of stuff in mtbiking is designed to be light and that means when you take it out of the range it was designed for it not going to continue to perform the same. That's why there aren't any 20 pound DH bikes but plenty for XC. If you choose wheels built for your weight range they can be stiff. Boost 148 may be 6% stiffer than 142. That by itself isn't going to give you the performance you want. A realistic rider weight consideration needs more.
If I where building a wheel to try I'd use some strong options and hope for the best until they were tested.
I"d start with 36 hole rims. I'd go with Sapim Race spokes and brass nipples. I'd go wide with a rim offered in different strength builds at an increase in weight. The DH version of Carbonbicycles 40/35mm rim is 540g at $169+ship of 25. This gives more volume from some tire choices. Some discussion is on the Ibis forum for their wide wheels.
Dt 350 hubs from Hibike would be my choices.
 
#5 ·
I noticed the flex in my '14 Fuel EX8 (29"), both in the wheels and the fork.
My '15 Remedy 9.8 (29 with the Boost 148), I notice a MUCH stiffer bike. Wheels and fork. The Boost 148 seems to make a difference. You may not really notice it much, but I did.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
DethWshBkr said:
I noticed the flex in my '14 Fuel EX8 (29"), both in the wheels and the fork.
My '15 Remedy 9.8 (29 with the Boost 148), I notice a MUCH stiffer bike. Wheels and fork. The Boost 148 seems to make a difference. You may not really notice it much, but I did.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your input!

waffleBeast said:
It is approximately 38 stiffer.
Click to expand...
Don't you mean 36?
 
#8 · (Edited)
DethWshBkr said:
I noticed the flex in my '14 Fuel EX8 (29"), both in the wheels and the fork.
My '15 Remedy 9.8 (29 with the Boost 148), I notice a MUCH stiffer bike. Wheels and fork. The Boost 148 seems to make a difference. You may not really notice it much, but I did.
Click to expand...
Apples to oranges comparison... Aluminum Fuel with a 32 fork and Duster wheels versus carbon Remedy with a 36 fork and Rhythm Comp wheels. Saying that any difference in stiffness is due to Boost is a joke.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
For anyone that may be wondering, the Boost is a good bit stiffer. Now that I have a couple rides on my Stache 9 I can say that there is very little flex as compared to my Flow EX's. I rode with a buddy that has ridden behind me with my Niner and even he mentioned how he didn't see any flex in my rear wheel tonight.
 
#10 ·
While you will gain with a wider flanged hubs, I wouldn't advise laying down a wad of cash for a new bike when you can achieve the same or better results but upping your spoke count. Durability of the freehub is always a consideration for clydes, so that needs to be factored as well. A boost hub that shreds freehub components under the stress we provide will do us no good.

I'm running Mavix 729's on a 36H Saint freehub and 32H XT hub with Wheelsmith 2.0 straight spokes and (of course) brass nipples. I probably could have gone with butted spokes, but I did break one outside the bend on the old wheels, and decided to go big. God bless, these wheels have absoluely zero flex in the hub/spoke/wheel. I rode a wee bit too hard last summer, and deflected the rear (solid, 7075) axle a few mm. Combating that this year by bumping the rear tire from a 2.1" to 2.5" casing. So far so good. In hindsight... I'll rebuild with 1.8's at some point, and could use a solid, high carbon rear axle.

370Lbs. Up to 2' of air. Don't slow down for much under 6" high.
 
#11 ·
I'll lay $$ that while the new Boost may provide a bit more rigidity, it's actually the fact that that wheelset runs 50mm wide rims and it's the rim width that has given the most stiffness increase. I have a wheelset I rebuilt from WTB ST i25 to Velocity Dually45 and the stiffness was unreal, also worked on some Ibis 941 wheels and they are super stiff compared to other carbon wheels I've worked on. What's happening is actual wheel stiffness and lack of tyre sidewall roll/squirm, which I think is prob a lot of what you wer feeling before.
askibum02 said:
For anyone that may be wondering, the Boost is a good bit stiffer. Now that I have a couple rides on my Stache 9 I can say that there is very little flex as compared to my Flow EX's. I rode with a buddy that has ridden behind me with my Niner and even he mentioned how he didn't see any flex in my rear wheel tonight.
Click to expand...
 
#12 ·
bigflamingtaco said:
While you will gain with a wider flanged hubs, I wouldn't advise laying down a wad of cash for a new bike when you can achieve the same or better results but upping your spoke count.
Click to expand...
3mm offset/assymetrical rims achieve the same results as well.

However, Boost148 does offer increased tire/chainstay clearance as well as allows for shortened chainstays.
 
#13 ·
Would anyone really lay down cash for a new bike JUST for boost hubs?

If you were going to buy a new bike anyway though, would boost influence your choice? In my case, I was looking at a hardtail trail bike anyway. I chose a Stache. The wheel package is stout. I don't think boost directly influenced my decision over bikes like the Honzo (I think the aluminum frame and big wheels made more difference to me), but I'm glad I have it now. It may be just a small percentage of the total, but improvements are a percentage game.
 
#14 ·
Why not do all of the above? Boost, more spokes, big stout rim with offset spoke holes, stouter frame, and whatever else. With more clearance in the frame and wider hubs, you get the stiffness benefits of the wider bearings (hubs and also pivots, for those checking out boost FS bikes) and room to make larger diameter tubing. Out of these, I have no doubt that Boost will make the biggest difference.

You're gonna be spending money anyways. Better to look far ahead. It's not like any of this is going to get cheaper if you wait, but the value of your current stuff will drop if you wait.
 
#15 ·
I have the old Mavic 729 the D321 on Hadley's 20mm front and 135x10 rear. laced with WS straight 2.0 and brass nipples. These are the strongest wheels and I have been rode 7 miles downhill on 2 flat tires and never bent or flat spotted. I'm only 160 but still!
bigflamingtaco said:
While you will gain with a wider flanged hubs, I wouldn't advise laying down a wad of cash for a new bike when you can achieve the same or better results but upping your spoke count. Durability of the freehub is always a consideration for clydes, so that needs to be factored as well. A boost hub that shreds freehub components under the stress we provide will do us no good.

I'm running Mavix 729's on a 36H Saint freehub and 32H XT hub with Wheelsmith 2.0 straight spokes and (of course) brass nipples. I probably could have gone with butted spokes, but I did break one outside the bend on the old wheels, and decided to go big. God bless, these wheels have absoluely zero flex in the hub/spoke/wheel. I rode a wee bit too hard last summer, and deflected the rear (solid, 7075) axle a few mm. Combating that this year by bumping the rear tire from a 2.1" to 2.5" casing. So far so good. In hindsight... I'll rebuild with 1.8's at some point, and could use a solid, high carbon rear axle.

370Lbs. Up to 2' of air. Don't slow down for much under 6" high.
Click to expand...
 
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#16 ·
My 2016 Trek with "boost" front in back has incredibly stiff wheels but other factors are probably present. I have a 29r that's 12x142 too. It's got more basic Deore hubs and OEM WTB rims. The stiffness is really obvious in front but from all I've read the 2016 Fox 34 is stiffer even without boost width.

In reality I think my bike engine is usually more important than the parts but boost helps engineers accommodate modern designs and drive train. I support this via riding high and low end bikes, and with what I see teaching in a kids MTB program.
 
#17 ·
I've ridden both the 2015 remedy 9.8 (the one with terrible sram wheels) and the 2016 remedy 9.8 (the one with terrible dt swiss spline wheels) and I don't get why trek keeps spec'ing terribly flexy wheels on these so called beneficial boost bikes.

I'd bet with a properly stiff wheel you'd feel a benefit but I think anything anybody is feeling with stock wheels is purely placebo effect.

The new boost 36 fork that comes on the 9.8 felt great though.
 
#18 ·
If your going to buy a geared 29er bike anyway, I'd say it's a must to get Boost. 1. wider flanges=stronger wheel. 2. better chainline for 1X and wider tire/rim set up. For a 27.5 I'd go for a deal on the 142x12 bikes instead of pay more for the Boost 148.
 
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#19 ·
As far as I can tell, "boost 148/110 36h hubs don't exist, and that should be your priority. 36h wheels and the beefiest rim you can find.

At 360lbs, I wouldn't buy ANY full suspension bike- you're asking for trouble and constant maintenance. The most responsive suspension that can properly damp 360lbs is your arms and legs. Buy a steel surly or something, build it with beefy wheels, and hold off on carbon and full suspension until your 100lbs lighter.
 
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