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triple66

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
my new ss build comes in at 28.8 lbs
Is it feasible to get a sub 20lb bike? For some weird reason I've got my little heart set on it.:rolleyes:
Specs:
juice frame xl
bontrager mustang wheel set
ice tech rotors 160mm
xt brakes
bontrager ssr seatpost
charge seat
generic stem 100mm
race face evolve bars 725mm wide
esi grips
surly seatpost clamp
eggbeaters 2
xtr 960 polished crankset
wolf 32t 102 single speed chainring
steel single speed chainring bolts
chris king 18t rear cog
salsa cromoto grande fork

How many pounds would a 5-600 wheelset drop?
wheels and bars/stem/seat/post would get me close??:confused:

I did weigh the seat and post and it was 1.8lbs!:eekster:
Thanks for the help
 
my new ss build comes in at 28.8 lbs
Is it feasible to get a sub 20lb bike? For some weird reason I've got my little heart set on it.:rolleyes:
Just a few threads further down on this forum 15.4lbs, fully raceable from what it seems;

http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/99-9%25-complete-7kg-15-4lb-one9-rdo-marathon-race-machine-939111.html

Another user within the past couple of years (Mattkock) was under 14 lbs with his SS if I remember correctly. It just depends how far you want to take it, which is a function of budget also, of course.

Planning out a weight goal just after you've finished building up a new rig is kind of too late though, if your current build isn't anywhere in the same ballpark as your goal.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
hmm well maybe I"ll edit my goal.
I guess I'm really looking to see how light I can get this frame/fork combo without starting over. The bike is awesome and the steel is a fun ride--just figured I can cut the weight.
 
Well, using the previous examples the complete builds kits these guys are doing (without frame and fork) are around 10-12lbs. Make yourself a spreadsheet with weights of all the build items you have now, start researching about lighter parts in each category that are within your functional/price boundaries, compare potential weight savings, and decide if you want to take the plunge on any of the items.

hmm well maybe I"ll edit my goal.
I guess I'm really looking to see how light I can get this frame/fork combo without starting over. The bike is awesome and the steel is a fun ride--just figured I can cut the weight.
 
A few pounds is a lot.

Also, put as many/much carbon components on that bike as possible. Shop smart though, some carbon parts are heavier than non-carbon (like cheap carbon seatposts with large aluminum heads can weigh more than a thompson).
 
You can get the "Uno" stems on eBay for under 25 bucks and they are pretty light. Going to a carbon bar can get you another 100 grams...same with a seatpost. You can go with one of those eBay carbon saddles. Swap out your steel cog for an aluminum one. Run some low tread tubless tires (If your area allows it).

Dropping 8 lbs is quite a lot of weight.
 
I've built two geared bikes around 20 pounds, both on a budget. One is a 29er that weighs 19.3 pounds, which I built for $900 (some lightly used parts). The other is a 26er that weighs about 20.5 pounds, which I built for $500 (also some lightly used parts). In my experience, it is far easier to build a light bike than to modify a heavy bike to make it light. There are some light parts that aren't really much more expensive than their heavier counterparts. This is often the case with saddles, aluminum seat posts and stems. You can save some weight just by comparing different options in a given price range. Some light parts you will have to pay for, but Ebay can yield some great deals.

Remember, rotating weight has the biggest effect on performance, so wheels are often the best place to start. My two bikes have Easton EA70 XCT (29er) and Specialized Roval Controle (26er) wheels. These and the SID forks are probably the nicest parts on these bikes, and that was on purpose. You'd be shocked at how much nicer of a ride light wheels can give.
 
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