I just picked up a '13 trek wahoo 29er for $300. Coming from a '09 specialized hardrock 26er, is this an overall upgrade? Both bike have disc brakes I think the hardrock has 80mm and the wahoo has 100mm travel forks. With that said, is one better than the other? I am an intermediate rider, 6' tall and ride more all mountain. Thanks for the input in advance. Larry
29er vs 26er- pros and cons
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duckdawg1
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I just picked up a '13 trek wahoo 29er for $300. Coming from a '09 specialized hardrock 26er, is this an overall upgrade? Both bike have disc brakes I think the hardrock has 80mm and the wahoo has 100mm travel forks. With that said, is one better than the other? I am an intermediate rider, 6' tall and ride more all mountain. Thanks for the input in advance. Larry
Of course the wahoo is a better bike, its got wagon wheels! All kidding aside, it all comes down to personal preference, type of terrain you ride, and even the size of the rider. Wheel size doesnt make one bike better then another, it just makes them different. Being 6'1, i gravitate towards 29ers especially on a hardtail. They just work better for me. If i had two equally spec'd bikes on the showroom, one in 26 and 29er...ill always let the customer decide which one is better.
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They're pretty different. It's a tough call, really personal preference. Put it this way: Your new purchase is a good complement to your old bike. I love going between my 6er and 9er because each time I switch over it feels like I'm riding a new bike!
Downieville is in your area. Both bikes are not a first choice for that level of all mountain riding, the fork being the first weak point.
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47 Posts
100% what he said
in cheaper, heavy bikes i would stay clear from 29ers, especially with heavy wheels.
This is basically shortsighted sh[t. All cheap bikes have the same heavy wheels and tires.100% what he said
in cheaper, heavy bikes i would stay clear from 29ers, especially with heavy wheels.
29s rollover and an upgrade front wheel and tire will then get you on a better bike in a 29 when you do it down the road. Geo, of course, matters.
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I think it's fair to say that cheap 29er wheels are going to weigh more and feel heaver than a cheap pair of 26er wheels simply because they are bigger. the 29er will be harder to wrangle around turns and harder to accelerate, but carry momentum better than a 26er. however, any entry-level bike will handle much better with an upgraded wheelset.
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You already spent the money; what could we tell you that would be useful?
I think they're kind of a wash. Alternate for a while and decide for yourself.
I think they're kind of a wash. Alternate for a while and decide for yourself.
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47 Posts
2 similar priced bikes... the 29 will have heavy tires, tubes, suspension, frame, wheelset... and even larger and heavier handlebars... they are all bigger
Bike Club Rules
#1 No body talks about bike club
#2 Don't become a StravaHole
#3 Pick a wheel size and be a dick about it
#4 If someone asks you which bike is better, tell them they can't handle the truth
#5 Ride it like you stole it
Basically I'm saying you are are over thinking this, ride which ever one you like best
#1 No body talks about bike club
#2 Don't become a StravaHole
#3 Pick a wheel size and be a dick about it
#4 If someone asks you which bike is better, tell them they can't handle the truth
#5 Ride it like you stole it
Basically I'm saying you are are over thinking this, ride which ever one you like best
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125 Posts
2 Unique frame/tire sizes, 2 very different styles of riding = more fun!
TLDR: +29er: TRACTION!!! Obstacle roll-over, braking, climbing, requires less suspension for comfort. Superior at low-PSI! Faster in general over most terrain/common situations (XC esp). Wheel+rim mass means less bent rims, more forgiving landings at equal 26 tire PSI.
-29er: Momentum MUST be kept in mind at all times. More up-shifting required! Slower acceleration, less snappy handling! Air/wheelie/tricks aren't as easy. High speed corner wheel flex.
--------------------------
The "pro's and "cons" are technically measurable, but the FEELING (your perception bias) towards 29 vs 26 setup is the most important. Riding either platform depends on YOUR UNIQUE RIDING STYLE>.<
A common "fair" comparison is "long travel" 26er vs "short/medium" travel 29er. Both platforms require a radically different style to achieve "optimal" efficiency, aka FUN! You won't have much "fun" nor efficiency riding a heavier "big rig" 29er like a LT-26er. If you don't like up-shift-shifting a lot or don't have a "rapid-rise" system, be prepared for a thumb-shifting workouts! 29ers require more rapid-rise style up-shifting in-order to keep the momentum of the noticeably heavier/slower rotating wheels. You HAVE to increase/pre-plan your shifting... Here I'll try and make a list of situations where your approach will (ought) to be different. Here is my sorta "mock" experience from switching platforms:
PS- Others experiences may wildly differ... I digress.
Flat road/hardpack: 29er is slower to accelerate, but 5-10mph faster top end, and faster at over taking as momentum builds = skip-shifting down 1-3 gears as momentum builds.
Sudden/unexpected decelerations: 29ers keep energy momentum longer, but need longer to rebuild it, so to keep it going = rapid up-shifting is a must or you'll be slow-rolling until you get the wheels going. It takes much less energy to keep a heavier object continually rotating vs rebuilding said momentum from a slow start. You'll feel tired more trying to continually rebuild momentum vs keeping it going. 26ers excel in burst-acceleration situations. Easier to spin smaller wheels from low-momentum situations.
Uphill: 29ers have a significant traction advantage, but require more slow-speed balance skills. You will NOT be able to maneuver it as quickly/easily as 26er. But you WILL find traction in situations where the 26er is simply ineffective. Slow-speed balance is key, and must be relearned.
Downhill(s): 29ers are more stable at speed, more predicable over obstacles. Unless very technical (meaning high deceleration/acceleration variances) the 29er is faster over a linear path to the bottom, you'll need to account for the decrease braking time! Your route will need to be altered if say = CLIFF/ledge! Braking force required will be higher to stop heavier rotating mass, but you'll stop much sooner!
Technical, single-switch tracks: 29er will feel cumbersome bc of non-continuous momentum. 26er dominates in snappy, hard turn based terrain. Much less wheel-flex; 29er = roll over obstacles faster vs around them.
Air/parlor tricks: 26ers dominate in the air = less gyroscopic induced force bc of smaller wheels. 26er will go higher, with less effort. Your ability to correct in-air angles will be harder with 29er. BUT the 29er IS more stable in air, meaning it will stay a truer course... Right into danger if you just wing it w/o knowing where you want to land!
Pastures/Sand/Mud/Loose/Rocks/Roots/Ruts etc: 29er is dominant, period. Lower the PSI as low(er) and experience true child like- magic traction! Where the 26er is walking, you're still riding!
Winter/Snow: 29er is completely dominant. There has not been such a diff in riding capability for me as with the 29er! I can ride places not possible with the 26er. Ex, an 8" snow covered cow pasture/horse trail. Very low PSI, slow steady traction + staying on course is the key. These areas would stall out on LT-26 bc the suspension has little to do with keeping the traction, which is tire size dependent more so. Esp at low PSI, the 26er would pinch flat/sidewall-roll over vs 29er is still usable.
Overall: 29ers traction/roll-over/lower pressure/top-end speed makes for a unique experience. It's slower acceleration, slower tight handling, less air-maneuverability hinder "snappiness." As I've said in other threads: 26er = 4x4 Hummer vs 29er Tank bike, blasting through obstacles and rarely needing to avoid them. I like "tank-style" better! I was all but bored of 26er style, esp knowing a new "change" would require a vastly expensive, long-travel (LT has many downsides as well) kit, which still wouldn't address non-suspension based terrain challenges. The associated upkeep/fragility of LT-FS setups was also a concern. 1 harsh wreck on a FS could really cost a lot in repairs vs HT frame strength, esp if you heavy-haul gear/rear-rack dependance.
***Of serious note; after re-riding all the old trails I used to 26er blast through; I have not required a wheel truing at all. My 26er, no matter what rim material/brand = constant truing required!*** I believe this is bc the 29er wheels flex more and allows the shock to be spread and dampened more effectively over a much larger surface area.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
TLDR: +29er: TRACTION!!! Obstacle roll-over, braking, climbing, requires less suspension for comfort. Superior at low-PSI! Faster in general over most terrain/common situations (XC esp). Wheel+rim mass means less bent rims, more forgiving landings at equal 26 tire PSI.
-29er: Momentum MUST be kept in mind at all times. More up-shifting required! Slower acceleration, less snappy handling! Air/wheelie/tricks aren't as easy. High speed corner wheel flex.
--------------------------
The "pro's and "cons" are technically measurable, but the FEELING (your perception bias) towards 29 vs 26 setup is the most important. Riding either platform depends on YOUR UNIQUE RIDING STYLE>.<
A common "fair" comparison is "long travel" 26er vs "short/medium" travel 29er. Both platforms require a radically different style to achieve "optimal" efficiency, aka FUN! You won't have much "fun" nor efficiency riding a heavier "big rig" 29er like a LT-26er. If you don't like up-shift-shifting a lot or don't have a "rapid-rise" system, be prepared for a thumb-shifting workouts! 29ers require more rapid-rise style up-shifting in-order to keep the momentum of the noticeably heavier/slower rotating wheels. You HAVE to increase/pre-plan your shifting... Here I'll try and make a list of situations where your approach will (ought) to be different. Here is my sorta "mock" experience from switching platforms:
PS- Others experiences may wildly differ... I digress.
Flat road/hardpack: 29er is slower to accelerate, but 5-10mph faster top end, and faster at over taking as momentum builds = skip-shifting down 1-3 gears as momentum builds.
Sudden/unexpected decelerations: 29ers keep energy momentum longer, but need longer to rebuild it, so to keep it going = rapid up-shifting is a must or you'll be slow-rolling until you get the wheels going. It takes much less energy to keep a heavier object continually rotating vs rebuilding said momentum from a slow start. You'll feel tired more trying to continually rebuild momentum vs keeping it going. 26ers excel in burst-acceleration situations. Easier to spin smaller wheels from low-momentum situations.
Uphill: 29ers have a significant traction advantage, but require more slow-speed balance skills. You will NOT be able to maneuver it as quickly/easily as 26er. But you WILL find traction in situations where the 26er is simply ineffective. Slow-speed balance is key, and must be relearned.
Downhill(s): 29ers are more stable at speed, more predicable over obstacles. Unless very technical (meaning high deceleration/acceleration variances) the 29er is faster over a linear path to the bottom, you'll need to account for the decrease braking time! Your route will need to be altered if say = CLIFF/ledge! Braking force required will be higher to stop heavier rotating mass, but you'll stop much sooner!
Technical, single-switch tracks: 29er will feel cumbersome bc of non-continuous momentum. 26er dominates in snappy, hard turn based terrain. Much less wheel-flex; 29er = roll over obstacles faster vs around them.
Air/parlor tricks: 26ers dominate in the air = less gyroscopic induced force bc of smaller wheels. 26er will go higher, with less effort. Your ability to correct in-air angles will be harder with 29er. BUT the 29er IS more stable in air, meaning it will stay a truer course... Right into danger if you just wing it w/o knowing where you want to land!
Pastures/Sand/Mud/Loose/Rocks/Roots/Ruts etc: 29er is dominant, period. Lower the PSI as low(er) and experience true child like- magic traction! Where the 26er is walking, you're still riding!
Winter/Snow: 29er is completely dominant. There has not been such a diff in riding capability for me as with the 29er! I can ride places not possible with the 26er. Ex, an 8" snow covered cow pasture/horse trail. Very low PSI, slow steady traction + staying on course is the key. These areas would stall out on LT-26 bc the suspension has little to do with keeping the traction, which is tire size dependent more so. Esp at low PSI, the 26er would pinch flat/sidewall-roll over vs 29er is still usable.
Overall: 29ers traction/roll-over/lower pressure/top-end speed makes for a unique experience. It's slower acceleration, slower tight handling, less air-maneuverability hinder "snappiness." As I've said in other threads: 26er = 4x4 Hummer vs 29er Tank bike, blasting through obstacles and rarely needing to avoid them. I like "tank-style" better! I was all but bored of 26er style, esp knowing a new "change" would require a vastly expensive, long-travel (LT has many downsides as well) kit, which still wouldn't address non-suspension based terrain challenges. The associated upkeep/fragility of LT-FS setups was also a concern. 1 harsh wreck on a FS could really cost a lot in repairs vs HT frame strength, esp if you heavy-haul gear/rear-rack dependance.
***Of serious note; after re-riding all the old trails I used to 26er blast through; I have not required a wheel truing at all. My 26er, no matter what rim material/brand = constant truing required!*** I believe this is bc the 29er wheels flex more and allows the shock to be spread and dampened more effectively over a much larger surface area.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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129 Posts
Below is a very good article about the difference between the 3 wheel sizes. It's very objective, but basically the main difference between a 29er and a 26er is rollover and rotational mass. The 26" wheel will be stiffer, but you could always buy a more expensive and stronger 29er wheel that will get close to the stiffness of a 26". Also, with the new hub size 148m coming out, that will help stiffen up the rear wheel greatly.
If you need an increase in traction get a better tread pattern, wider tire, softer rubber compound or run the lowest PSI possible if your not already. Wheel size is not going to make a difference in effective traction.
Educating the Debate - Part I - NSMB.com
Educating the Debate - Part II - NSMB.com
Educating the Debate - Part III - NSMB.com
One big misnomer that that our long winded forum buddy TitaniumV12 thinks is the greatest benefit of the a 29er and just can't stop talking about is totally false. And that is that a 29er has a huge increase in traction over a 26"/650b. The contact patch between the 3 wheel sizes are virtually identical with a 29er having 0.18 more square inches of contact patch vs a 26" with the same width tire. Also, a 29er can run a lower psi to get the same tire drop as a 26", but it is only 1 psi less to get the same drop. Again, not a noticeable difference. Wider tires are really the only thing that increases contact patch, or allow for lower psi, not wheel size. Wider rims will also allow for lower psi.
If you need an increase in traction get a better tread pattern, wider tire, softer rubber compound or run the lowest PSI possible if your not already. Wheel size is not going to make a difference in effective traction.
Educating the Debate - Part I - NSMB.com
Educating the Debate - Part II - NSMB.com
Educating the Debate - Part III - NSMB.com
I have both. A 9er HT and a 6er FS and I've set both up to handle how I want.
The 9er did feel a tad slower turning when I got it but a short stem fixed that.
With regards to acceleration, the 6 is quicker. But the top speed of the 9 is higher. Slight inclines are also barely noticeable on the 9.
Over rough stuff, the 9 definitely has an advantage. Simple enough to see.
For technical trails tho, I give the advantage to the 26.
Good to have both, I say.
The 9er did feel a tad slower turning when I got it but a short stem fixed that.
With regards to acceleration, the 6 is quicker. But the top speed of the 9 is higher. Slight inclines are also barely noticeable on the 9.
Over rough stuff, the 9 definitely has an advantage. Simple enough to see.
For technical trails tho, I give the advantage to the 26.
Good to have both, I say.
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18,476 Posts
I hadn't bothered to read all of Titanium's post. But I enjoyed the linked articles.
When I demoed, the thing that grabbed me about 29ers was the smoother ride. I think a lot of the criticisms about handling are sort of fair, although I think riding the 29er has made me learn to be a better bike handler. I find I countersteer more and the "lean the bike, not the body" thing has become relevant for me. I just kinda manhandled my old bike.
I'd credited the smoother ride to the contact patch shape, but from parts II and III, it sounds like it might be more a function of angle of attack. Which is kind of funny, because I'd previously discounted that as being all that important - like he points out, mountain bikers can bunny hop. Regardless of the cause, the smoother ride is important to me.
I could swear traction's better. I knew my contact patch wasn't much bigger, so I'd credited it to shape. But maybe it's a secondary effect of smoothness.
Anyway, good articles. I'd heard a bit about them before, but not read them. I saw the improvements from wheel size as subtle but present, so it doesn't really attack my beliefs at all. Certainly I'm happy I went 29er.
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1,059 Posts
Me too :thumbsup:! I have both a Atlas 29er and Nomad II 6er and its a blast switching between the two.
Atlas = Rolls fast, hauls azz when pedaling on flat ground (momentum), little bit better corner/climbing traction and less tired after long rides.
Nomad =Turns quicker, accelerates quicker, easier to navigate tight technical terrain and easier to pump over terrain.
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