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I use the Kryptonite New York noose 1213 to chain the frame to the hitch, not the rack. Ulock rear wheel to frame. I am still puzzling on best method for front wheel.
Cool, thanks for the advice and the article. I'm not as worried about my wheels, and dont really plan on leaving it out of sight for more than a few minutes, so I'm hoping a strong chain like the Kryptonite will be fine. Attaching it to the hitch is a great idea.

1up sells one of the best cable locks I've ever used on their website. I highly recommend it.
Looks interesting, I'll check it out.

Now for a dropper post...
One thing at a time!
 
QuikRack Add-On Adapter

Can anybody comment on the QuikRack Add-On Adapter? I couldn't find any feedback in my search...

I'm thinking of getting one for my Fiesta to use the add-ons from my 4-place rack. The hitch itself sounds like it'll need some monkeying around to not knock the muffler, but that's another story...

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I finally picked up a 1Up rack after going through a couple of Saris racks that each had different problems. This thing has been great so far, much less movement of the bike while traveling, feels much safer at interstate speeds going to and from rides. It also fits perfect on the back of my Chevy Sonic hatchback and the bikes are lower than the Saris racks allowing the bars to stay just at or below the roof line instead of sticking out above it.
 
My SUV has a 2 inch receiver, but I bought the 1-1/4" single bike version with a purpose. It comes with the 2 inch adapter, and I can remove the adapter and install it into the 1-1/4 inch receiver on the back of my tow behind travel trailer. Can't beat that.

Plus the fact that it is so easy to remove and install with the one security bolt. Worth every penny.
 
Finally joined the 1up army after following this thread for 3 years hah.

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Pretty great so far, and much much better than contorting my bike into the car.

What's the consensus on locking the bike to the rack? Haven't ordered the wheel locks, but thinking of just using a standard chain/lock arrangement when necessary.
That looks great, can you tell me if the rack is actually wider than the width of your Subaru? With or without the bike loaded?
 
That looks great, can you tell me if the rack is actually wider than the width of your Subaru? With or without the bike loaded?
That's one thing I was worried about initially but it doesn't seem to be a problem. With my bike loaded (that's a XXL 29er) it's wider than the body of the car, but it doesn't seem to be wider than the mirrors.

Doesn't look like it in the pic, but without the bike the rack itself is about 4" shorter on each side than the car.

Either way, I haven't had any problems passing cars on the highway or noticed people giving me extra room. Although I do notice people definitely seem to tailgate less!
 
That's one thing I was worried about initially but it doesn't seem to be a problem. With my bike loaded (that's a XXL 29er) it's wider than the body of the car, but it doesn't seem to be wider than the mirrors.

Doesn't look like it in the pic, but without the bike the rack itself is about 4" shorter on each side than the car.

Either way, I haven't had any problems passing cars on the highway or noticed people giving me extra room. Although I do notice people definitely seem to tailgate less!
That's good to hear! Thanks for the response.
 
One up maintenance and lubrication

I've had my 1up for about 6 months now. This is a long thread and I read the whole thread before I purchased the rack. I have been completely satisfied with the rack, well worth the investment.

Last couple of rides the wheel arms were making a squeal when opening and closing and it was getting difficult to open and close them, so I decided it was time for some maintenance. I believe this may have been covered previously in the thread, but at 95 pages and increasing, I thought it wouldn't hurt to post another. I have attached two photos labeling what I call the ratchet strut, ratchet lever, and wheel arm. I checked 1up's website and couldn't find any FAQs about maintenance. If I missed it, someone please post a link.

Bushing A in the picture is designed to bottom out before getting too tight. I loosened it to see if that fixed my problem, it sort of did, so I tightened it back down and then hit it with a spray of Tri-Flow and the wheel arms starting moving a little better. I also had to spray some Tri-Flow on both ends of bushing B. Now the wheel arm opens and closes super smooth, just like new. No problems closing the wheel arm tight against the tire.

I think the issue is when bushing A starts to stick, the ratchet strut won't pivot freely when opening the wheel arm and ends up forcing the ratchet lever from parallel with the wheel tray. The ratchet mechanism then "digs in" making it difficult to open the wheel arm, there is not enough mechanical advantage with the ratchet lever for your fingers to easily overcome the ratchet strut friction. When closing the wheel arm, the ratchet strut forces the ratchet mechanism to "dig in" in the other direction, the ratchet spring isn't strong enough to overcome the friction in bushing A, making it difficult to fully close the wheel arm against the tire.

In the second picture I show how I hold the ratchet lever parallel to the wheel tray when opening the wheel arm. The picture is a little tilted, but the lever is parallel to the wheel tray. I usually have my gloves on and put the ends of a couple of fingers under the wheel tray as a guide and then use the other fingers to lift the ratchet lever. When bushing A started sticking, I had to start holding the ratchet lever knob and keep fiddling with the ratchet lever as I opened the wheel arm. With the friction gone, I just let my hand slide along the bottom of the tray, keeping the lever parallel.

I don't think the Tri-Flow will harm the bushings. There may be better lubricants, but Tri-Flow was what I had hanging around and seemed to work well in this application. WD-40 may work, but WD-40 is more of a temporary lubricant and I wanted to go with something a little more permanent.
 

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My trays are several years old and I have never lubed them, I do hose them off once a season though. OTOH, my rack always comes off and is stowed in the garage between rides. I see one other local car that always has the 1up in their hitch and scratch my head as to why when it's so easy to remove, I mostly see the car parked in an overly cramped indoor hospital parking lot, which happens to be the same one, due to its cramped spaces, that has led to many scrapes on my bumper and dings on my doors.
 
OTOH, my rack always comes off and is stowed in the garage between rides. I see one other local car that always has the 1up in their hitch and scratch my head as to why when it's so easy to remove...
I leave my rack on year-round. I ride 2-5 times per week so constantly removing and reattaching would be a pita IMHO. Rack still looks and functions great after 2 years of ownership. There is some aging on the lock bars and pivot bolts but just cosmetic. All aluminum bits still look awesome.
 
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