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I swapped in a larger volume reducer in the Mach 6's Float X and it solved that issue entirely. Cost was ~$40 and you get a full set of reducers so you can fine tune the shock's feel.
Good to know. I had to use a medium volume reducer to keep my SB66 from rubbing the seat tube on anything more than 2 ft with 25% sag max. Bike was a bit too linear deep in the travel especially, but would kick back at slower speeds while climbing. The new VPP feels so much better to me. With that said, the SB66 performed better with Monarch vs Fox CTD, but I seem to be content riding the CTD on my Bronson. Just a bit too firm on square hits at speed...hello Avy tune.
 
From what I've heard, the Vivid Air is pretty damn linear. Its got a little progressiveness at the end compared to the Vivid coil, but not a lot. The Nomad 3 wouldn't be totally out of place having that extra progressiveness at the end. My Nomad 2 with Push link still bottoms out often when hitting bigger stuff at the the bike park (not the smoothest rider).

FWIW, I'm contemplating on throwing a Vivid Air and the new Fox Talas 180 on my Nomad 2 (push link) at some point. Would ditch the coil uturn Lyrik and dhx 5 coil. Should save 2lbs. Could save another 2lbs by going with lighter cranks and dropper too, getting me close to 32lbs. However, I tend to case pretty big jumps from time to time, so I'm not sure if having air suspension and light cranks is that great of an idea. I bent my pedal axle and nearly taco'd a DH rim yesterday. My old Saint cranks (1200g version) are solid as a rock though.
 
As I mentioned earlier, for me, linear = fun and playful trailbike, progressive = downhill crusher. The former is best suited for lower travel bikes, the latter for longer travel bikes. For me, this is ideally 5" and 6.5/7".
Wow. This thread is awesome. The Mechanical Engineer in me is really geeking out.

It also puts into words what I believe I felt when I compared my old, 2011 Spesh Enduro to my old 2010 GF Roscoe.

At 140mm, the Roscoe was actually more 'fun' whereas the 160mm Enduro wanted to steam roll and go mach-stupid. Like Lindahl, I learned my style of trail riding leans towards a 'fun' bike. This is why I have a 140mm Remedy 9 (with a 150 Pike) instead of a 160mm Slash 9.

It also explains why the Roscoe felt downright 'off' (with my trail suspension settings) when we rode lift accessed trails at CB last year.

Great stuff! :thumbsup:
 
I don't think the float x has the negative spring but the new fox forks do.
Fox either invented or introduced to the bike industry the self adjusting air negative spring when they launched the Float shock. The term "float" referred to this feature and it's been used in every Fox air shock since. The small bump in the air can is the bypass port. Because of this I always assumed the Float forks used the same system and was awfully surprised to find a coil negative spring in the bottom of one only a few years ago. For 2015 some Fox forks got an air negative spring.. Changing the size of the negative chamber and the location of the bypass port affects the spring curve and every shock is different but they all use the same system. Because of this you need to gradually bleed off pressure while cycling the shock before taking it apart and cycle the shock during filling if raising the pressure significantly.
 
This answers a lot of questions I have about set up on the Nomad. It also answers why it rides well with the CCDB with the HSC turned relatively low. I am having a bit of trouble getting the rebound exactly right. I am sticking with the theory of med-fast HSR and med-slow LSR. It is funny, speeding up HSR just makes the rear end feel more active, but not buckey or scary. Slowing it down just make the rear end feel more stiff and more supportive. This is what I always assumed HSC would do, not HSR. Shows what I know.
 
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