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Actual LB 30mm ID wheel build parts, weights, and results.

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Kegelhoff

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
After spending several hours sifting through all the info on the "Chinese Carbon Fiber Rim" thread, on the LB 30mm ID wheel builds I'm still finding it difficult to determine what components might be best for my new wheelset that I'm building. I have the new 30mm ID hookless, am, rims ordered and plan on using my existing DT240 hubs to complete the new wheelset. One thing that will be different from most of you is I plan on using Specialized Captain's 2.0" tires front and rear on my hardtail 29er on these wide rims. After two years of trying over 15 different tires for training and racing XC, these are my go-to tire for SoCal traction, speed, good sidewall protection and are long lasting. I'm really looking forward to seeing how these tires work on the super wide rims and what tire pressure I will be running with them set up tubless.
I was hoping to make this thread simple with JUST the parts you used to build up your wheelset, your riding impressions, and the final wheel weight.

All comments/suggestions are welcome!

My potential build:
Rims: LB 30mm ID, AM, 32 hole, 3k (ordered)
Hubs: DT 240, 32 hole, front and rear. (removed from current Stan's Crest build)
Spokes: Thinking DT Revolution 2.0-1.5-2.9 ?
Front wheel 2 cross both sides ?
Rear wheel 3 cross non-drive, 2 cross drive side ?
DT Swiss Alum 14mm nipple ?

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
ok I think you are seriously over complicating your wheel build. Keep it simple and you will be rewarded.

3 cross all around. Its just stonger than the other setups at a very minor weight penalty.

For the spokes themselves I would go for something a bit less extreme in butting. Something like 2.0-1.7-2.0 once again just a bit heavier but stronger and stiffer. As for nipples go for what ever floats your boat. I have used both brass and alloy nipples with great success.

As for weights I cant say. I have not used LB rims but my advice above would apply to any wheel that you
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
I was basing some of my decisions from other manufactures lightweight Carbon wheel builds. I was thinking I could go with the lighter weight spoke route since I'm using 32 spokes front and rear and most of the newer carbon wheels are going 24 or 28 spokes front and 28 rear and still use the extreme butted spokes? Here is a quick comparison of the "other" guys wheels:

Roval Control SL 29

Front Spoke Pattern: radial non-brake /3-cross
Rear Spoke Pattern: 3-cross (1:1)
Spoke Count: 24 front, 28 rear
Spoke Type: DT Revolution
Nipple Type: DT Pro Lock hexagonal


Stan's ZTR Valor 29

Front Spoke Pattern: 2-cross
Rear Spoke Pattern: 3-cross ND Side, 2-cross Drive Side.
Spoke Count: 24 front, 28 rear
Spoke Type: Sapim Laser 1.8/1.5 butted
Nipple Type: Sapim Double Square Locking alloy


DT Swiss XRC 1250 Spline 29

Front Spoke Pattern: 3 cross ? (not positive)
Rear Spoke Pattern: 3 cross ? (not positive)
Spoke Count: 28 front, 28 rear
Spoke Type: DT Aero Comp butted
Nipple Type: DT PRo Lock alloy

Kappius KR-29

Front Spoke Pattern: 2 cross
Rear Spoke Pattern: 2 cross
Spoke Count: 28 or 32 front, 28 or 32 rear
Spoke Type: DT Aerolite butted
Nipple Type: DT PRo Lock alloy

After thinking about this some more I may go 2x cross both sides on the front wheel and 3x cross both sides rear wheel. I won't get my rims for a few more weeks so still some time to think more about this.
 
#4 ·
sir_crackien said:
ok I think you are seriously over complicating your wheel build. Keep it simple and you will be rewarded.
Click to expand...
Agree with this. 3x, brass nips, 2.0/1.8g spokes. That is how I built mine up and they've been great so far (although they are 22mm internal hookless AM).

Alu nips are the worst ever. And I did find that these rims need to be tensioned with the tires mounted, and re-tensioned after a few rides. I went low with the tension initially and the rear wheel loosened right up. I am pretty sure if I had used alu nipples they would be trashed already. Plus the risk of galvanic corrosion. Just not worth the extra $30 to save 30g.
 
#5 ·
Kegelhoff said:
After thinking about this some more I may go 2x cross both sides on the front wheel and 3x cross both sides rear wheel. I won't get my rims for a few more weeks so still some time to think more about this.
Click to expand...
Personally, I would want 3x lacing on the disc side of the front wheel to better handle braking forces. 2x lacing would offer slightly more lateral stiffness but I doubt you would notice it. The carbon rims will be stiff enough that it won't make a difference. Are you building the wheels yourself? If so, go 3x front and rear. Each wheel will have the same lacing pattern. No chance of getting confused with, "Is this a 2x side or 3x side? Does it go to this hole or that hole?", etc. There's no point in making things more complicated than they need to be.
 
#6 ·
Just thought to share. I too previously was running Crest rims and Specialized Tires for years. Control 2.1 front and Fast Trak 2.0 rear. I have now just completed two 50+ mile MTB endurance races in the last two months through the mountains of AR with my new LB build and love the rims. But I built the XC AM rim 30 OD 23 ID bead hook. I didn't want to add the weight to wheelset and these rims came in the same as the Crest. I built them with Wheelsmith DB14 2.0 1.7 2.0 spokes. The ID of my rims is noticably greater then the Crest. The Specialized tire bead sits nicely inside the bead hook and the first thing I noticed with them is how easily the tires sealed vs the Crest. Then when I deflated them to check my tension again after my first rides, I noticed they stayed seated to about 5psi. What I don't fully understand is your desire to run 2.0 on the 30 ID LB rim. I am now running Control 2.3 front and Fast Trak 2.2 rear. All of this on a Specialized Carbon Epic. The extra volume fits great on my rim, where they wouldn't fit on the Crest. I would be concerned about how well the 2.0 stays seated on your hookless LB. Plus I think you will be missing out on the potential of what you are trying to build. Try a larger volume tire with that rim, I think you will appreciate the results of the what you are building much more. Enjoy your LB's.
 
Discussion starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks for the good info. I was on the fence on trying to build a really light wheelset similar to what you did with the 23mm ID rims. Here is my thoughts on using the super wide 30mm ID rims and 2.0 tires.
I raced cyclocross last year on my 29er using the Crest rims. In all the dry races I used real CX tires on the 21mm ID crest wheelset. These were super narrow Schwalble 28 x 1.3" tires run tubeless and they worked well on the crest rims. I was able to run them at 40 psi without burping and the combo yielded a light and fast race setup. So, I'm thinking the same should apply to using the 30mm ID rims and 2.0 tires. Light weight tires, stiffer tire sidewalls, better traction, and lower tire pressure. I know there is a point of diminishing return on the extra weight of the wider rims versus traction but I'm willing to try out the combo and see.
I'm just surprised no one else has reported on trying 2.0 tires on the wider rims? Maybe they tired it and are keeping it a secrete ??
 
#8 ·
I just built these so I don't have much to say about how they ride. The goal was wide, durable, and not too heavy with hubs that I could easily convert. I ride mostly XC in the rocky desert.

Front: 789 grams with tape or valve
bikehubstore.com MTB180 QR hub, 32 holes
289 mm Sapim Laser spokes (2.0-1.5-2.0) on non-disc side
286 mm Sapim Race spokes (2.0-1.8-2.0) on disc side
12 mm Sapim aluminum nipples
Laced 3x

Rear: 904 grams without tape or valve
bikehubstore.com MTB270 QR hub, 32 holes
287 mm Sapim Laser spokes (2.0-1.5-2.0) on disc side
286 mm Sapim Race spokes (2.0-1.8-2.0) on drive side
12 mm Sapim brass nipples
Laced 3x

I built the front with aluminum nipples as an experiment to see how much of a problem corrosion would be. On the rear I used brass as a control group. For now the front is 21 grams lighter than if I had used brass like on the rear and I'll see how they hold up.
I probably would have been better off with 14 mm nipples instead. The 12 mm are usable--I just need to hold the spoke wrench carefully to avoid occasionally rubbing the rim. I measured 592 mm for the ERD for both rims.

After taping one of the rims I was able to pump up a used TNT Geax Gato using only a floor pump. I'm impressed with the bikehubstore rear hub: $85 for 48 engagement points and a convertible axle.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
AZmike, nice info. Looking forward to hearing what you think of the ride.

What rims did you use for this build? 30mm ID ?

Just wondering how you came up with those choices for the spokes? Wheel builder recommend or?

I'm actually going into the bike shop today to start my discussion with my favorite wheelbuilder to see where we might go for spokes and lacing pattern.
Thanks.
 
#10 ·
I used the 30 mm inside width Light Bicycles rims listed in the title of the thread. I came up with my spoke choices based on way too much time spent researching. I chose the 1.5 mm spokes for the side of each hub that would have lower tension to save some weight and thirty two holes for good durability. Three cross is the standard for 32 spokes wheels.
 
#11 ·
3X disc side 2X non disc side on the front wheel??

this idea the spokes on the disc side handle more force from the disc is a fallacy

The disc connects to the hub, using standard engineering principles the hub transmits the force to the rim - both sides of the spokes, unless of course you have got some a hub that is not solid...
and before some tries to correct me, yes the hub will actually twist some very very small amount under load, but both sides will take up the braking load very evenly

Also note the Front wheel undergoes more rotational braking forces that the rear wheel...
ie. when you are braking heavily the front wheel carries most of rider weight
which is why you want a bigger disc on the front of the bike than on the back
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
New 30mm ID rims just arrived. 409.7 grams and 413.4 grams. Quality looks REALLY good !! Hope to figure out exactly how I want to build them, order the parts, and get them built up in the next 10 to 12 days.
 
#15 ·
I am on the larger side of life, but equally wanted the strongest wheel possible, so went with 3 cross for both as recommended by the wheel builder.

I was very skeptical about going the LB route but so far I am very pleased, even though I've only got 1 serviceable wheel so far....I should have the front on Monday/Tuesday.
 
#16 ·
I'm going 32h, 3x with Sapim Laser. Brass nipples.

Yes Laser/Revolutions are not 'recommended' for disc brakes... Yet (as you mentioned) Specialized has no problems at all using DT Revolutions for their disc brake MTB carbon wheels.

I figure 32 skinny spokes, laced 3x and a stiff carbon rim will be just fine.
 
Discussion starter · #17 · (Edited)
I just picked up the completed wheelset. They Look very stealth in all black spokes, black nipples, and no rim decals. Front wheel came in at 757.2 grams and the rear at 819.7 Total weight of only 1576.9 grams VERY happy with those numbers and already mounted up the 2.0 captain to the front tire. Looks GREAT !!! Measured width of the Specialized Captans on the Stan's Crest was 2.10" and the measured width on the new Carbon 30mm is 2.17". First test ride is tomorrow evening at 24 PSI to start.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Nice 26 mile ride yesterday evening .... and they ride SWEET !!!! Running the lower air pressure could definitely be felt on the hardtail 29er and really soaked up the small rock bumps. I have a feeling that many others will soon be using the wider rims with narrow tires!!
 
#19 ·
Kegelhoff said:
After spending several hours sifting through all the info on the "Chinese Carbon Fiber Rim" thread, on the LB 30mm ID wheel builds I'm still finding it difficult to determine what components might be best for my new wheelset that I'm building. I have the new 30mm ID hookless, am, rims ordered and plan on using my existing DT240 hubs to complete the new wheelset. One thing that will be different from most of you is I plan on using Specialized Captain's 2.0" tires front and rear on my hardtail 29er on these wide rims. After two years of trying over 15 different tires for training and racing XC, these are my go-to tire for SoCal traction, speed, good sidewall protection and are long lasting. I'm really looking forward to seeing how these tires work on the super wide rims and what tire pressure I will be running with them set up tubless.
I was hoping to make this thread simple with JUST the parts you used to build up your wheelset, your riding impressions, and the final wheel weight.

All comments/suggestions are welcome!

My potential build:
Rims: LB 30mm ID, AM, 32 hole, 3k (ordered)
Hubs: DT 240, 32 hole, front and rear. (removed from current Stan's Crest build)
Spokes: Thinking DT Revolution 2.0-1.5-2.9 ?
Front wheel 2 cross both sides ?
Rear wheel 3 cross non-drive, 2 cross drive side ?
DT Swiss Alum 14mm nipple ?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Kegelhoff - what was your final wheelset build? Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Final build was:

Rims: LB 30mm ID, AM, 32 hole, 3k weave.
Hubs: DT Swiss 240, 32 hole, front and rear. (removed from current Stan's Crest build)
Spokes: DT Revolution 2.0-1.5-2.9 both front and rear.
Front wheels: 2 cross both sides.
Rear wheels: 3 cross both sides.
Black Alum 16mm nipple

Final weight was 1560 grams if I recall ?? I have the final weights written down at home. New wheelset has been AWESOME for my first week of hard riding.
 
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