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#7,082 ·
Hi I'm new to bikes and have just read pretty much all of this thread

Im looking to build an IP-256 for under $1500. Does anyone think this is possible? I have absolutely no bike or bike parts to use

I would like to to be a 1x9 1x10 or 1x11 set up
 
#7,085 ·
myk505 said:
Hi I'm new to bikes and have just read pretty much all of this thread

Im looking to build an IP-256 for under $1500. Does anyone think this is possible? I have absolutely no bike or bike parts to use

I would like to to be a 1x9 1x10 or 1x11 set up
Click to expand...
The frame is probably over 500, probably more than 600 shipped (owners can chime in with more precise figures). That leaves around 900 for fork, wheels/tires, brakes, drivetrain and cockpit.

If you could find a cheap bike, you might be able to move all those parts over and sell the frame on that bike.

If you bought all those parts separately, it would be pretty tough. You'd have to go cheap. Forget about 1x11. You'd probably be looking at low end 10 speed. You might find some reasonable (but not light) wheels for around 300, or you could go 2nd hand. I doubt you'd get a worthwhile suspension fork under 200, so you'd probably be best off getting a rigid fork so that you have enough budget left to get everything, without going real low end. There is no point getting a feather weight frame and then hanging boat anchor parts off it.

When building up a bike, it all adds up pretty quickly.....
 
#7,086 ·
myk505 said:
Hi I'm new to bikes and have just read pretty much all of this thread

Im looking to build an IP-256 for under $1500. Does anyone think this is possible? I have absolutely no bike or bike parts to use

I would like to to be a 1x9 1x10 or 1x11 set up
Click to expand...
If you were in the states you could get a $1200-1300 bikesdirect hardtail with XT and a Reba and then get a cheaper carbon 29er frame for $300 shipped off eBay. Or you can build up a frame buying cheaper Deore level components to keep it under budget which would also be a good option. If you go this route I would also recommend starting with a $300 frame because you will save more weight spending more on components and end up with a higher quality bike this way.
 
#7,091 ·
PeterQ520 said:
After a period of time production, many customers requires the frame without the external cable mounts, our factory decide to make all IP-256 frames with all inner cable routing in future production.Thanks guys.Email: peter@xmiplay.cnSkype: peterque520
Click to expand...
Bwick84 said:
That's a ways off from the claimed 890g +/- 35g (although that was for the 17.5"). Still pretty light either way. Synjin, did you measure yours so we have a comparison?
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1060g with everything everything stripped off other than the drop outs. I'll weigh them when I get a chance but I would think they are very much.
 
#7,092 ·
zink said:
If you were in the states you could get a $1200-1300 bikesdirect hardtail with XT and a Reba and then get a cheaper carbon 29er frame for $300 shipped off eBay. Or you can build up a frame buying cheaper Deore level components to keep it under budget which would also be a good option. If you go this route I would also recommend starting with a $300 frame because you will save more weight spending more on components and end up with a higher quality bike this way.
Click to expand...
interesting site. it looks like you can get a decent spec bike for not much more than $1k. A reba fork is not bad for that kind of money (though it might not be tapered), and xt/slx (and, in some cases, some xtr) is not to be sneezed at. they seem to go a bit cheaper on the cranks and brakes though (as to be expected for that price), and i dunno how good those wheels are.

if i was myk505 ("new to bikes"), i'd forget about getting a carbon frame for the moment. they'd definitely be better off spending their whole budget on a fully built bike like one of those, so they can get some decent components that won't need upgrading soon. ride that bike for a while and then consider getting a carbon frame at a later date when more funds allow. at that time, they'd probably have a better idea of sizing etc, and the IP-256 would have been around for a while - if you are new to bikes, you should definitely not be an early adopter of a frame that light.
 
#7,093 ·
My rims arrived a day ago, and I completed the build.

My patience run out, I built the wheels immediately after the delivery guy left. My first wheelbuild ever, so it took me a while. With the wheels done, the bike is now complete.

FM-057 15.5" UD Gloss BSA 142mm
15mm rigid fork UD Gloss. frame + fork = 2.00kg
"FSA" headset, but with cane creek 40 upper assembly
cheapo alloy bars and stem, 3T carbon post
9-speed X.0 twisties + rear der
wheels: 240s/CNspokes/brassNips/hookless LB rim = 1.41kg
new xtr brakes, new xtr pedals
old RF Turbine 46-34 crank, DA road cassette
35mm schwalbe road tyres (with normal weight tubes)
Bike as pictured = 8.40kg

it came out a little lighter than expected. obviously, it is set up to be a commuter. the plan is to get some suspension at some stage (still dunno whether the G2 offset fork is the go or not), get a decent stem and bars (when i work out what sizes i need) and move the 10-speed xtr drivetrain across from my other bike. with decent tubeless offroad tyres, suspension and 1x10, i doubt i'd get it under 9kg. i bought some 2.35 RaRa's, which i intend to use to find out what it is like to ride rigid offroad (i am sure it will be an experience).

since i took the photos, i put a few reflective stickers on it ("reflective black" - are pretty stealth on this frame), wrapped the chainstay, some helicopter tape at the rub points, added a light and garmin.

first ride was this morning - to work. pretty much all up and down through city streets for 8km, in rain. since my last ride was over a month ago in very similar conditions (and i lost traction, necessitating the month off), i took it very easy. it certainly feels light, and the power really seems to go directly to the ground. with the same drivetrain off my old bike, which was a 26er, the gearing was always gonna be tall, but despite my lack of fitness, i managed up most of the hills in the same or only 1 lower gear than before. i missed having the suspension for certain points of the commute (old bike had a headshok fork), and it certain felt pretty roadie-like when hitting bumps on our crappy roads. had about 60psi in the tires. need a less hectic ride to assess fit and work out what the handling is like. i used to put the 26er commuter into some pretty big leans at high speeds - i think the wet stack might have me psychologically scarred for a while though. bars seem pretty high, despite having the stem sitting on the headset, and with negative rise - something to think about when i go stem and h/bar shopping. overall, a very stiff bike - with thru axles at both ends, carbon rims and a beefy rigid fork with tapered steerer, you'd expect it. it is supremely quiet too. brakes worked great, but may need a bleed (we'll see if i need to pump them at the start of the next ride).
 
#7,097 ·
Guys I like something with a slack head tube, short rear chainstays and longer top tube. Any frame out there that fits that description? Many I see have a 70 or 71* head tube and would really like something in the 69*... Thanks in advance!
 
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