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Eddie Mudster

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I tried the Avid 160mm BB7 brakes this month from PricePoint.com, both front and rear. They were OEM with instructions dated 2002 "Mountain Ball Bearing Disc Brakes". I carefully installed these brakes following the instructions and couldn't get them working worth a $hit. I'm using 3-5 year old XTR V-brake/shift levers, is that the problem? I feel swindled. I've been working on bikes for over 20 years so it's not like I'm a noob :rolleyes:
 
Eddie Mudster said:
I tried the Avid 160mm BB7 brakes this month from PricePoint.com, both front and rear. They were OEM with instructions dated 2002 "Mountain Ball Bearing Disc Brakes". I carefully installed these brakes following the instructions and couldn't get them working worth a $hit. I'm using 3-5 year old XTR V-brake/shift levers, is that the problem? I feel swindled. I've been working on bikes for over 20 years so it's not like I'm a noob :rolleyes:
Feel the burn man, a well adjusted set of V's (esp w/ceramic rims) will work reaaaaallly good, and if you're coming off a set like that, most (read: all) disc brakes will feel weak by comparison, at least until they "break in"....allow about 3-4hrs of hard riding to "burn in" the pads/rotors...afterwhich, if they are set up right, will start working better than the V's....

in the end, you'll have to make the decision as to if that's worth it or not...
 
Your levers can also be adjusted to further customize feel a bit, I'm really happy with XT rapidfire brifters with my Avids....but it sounds more like you haven't burned the brakes in yet to get full power.
 
Eddie Mudster said:
I tried the Avid 160mm BB7 brakes this month from PricePoint.com, both front and rear. They were OEM with instructions dated 2002 "Mountain Ball Bearing Disc Brakes". I carefully installed these brakes following the instructions and couldn't get them working worth a $hit. I'm using 3-5 year old XTR V-brake/shift levers, is that the problem? I feel swindled. I've been working on bikes for over 20 years so it's not like I'm a noob :rolleyes:
Maybe you got oil on the pads/rotor. Even the oil from your skin can affect the brakes. Clean with alcohol. Also, the pads need to bed in.
 
What is your issue anyways?

OEM from Pricepoint usually means they pulled the parts off built bikes but they are still the same new parts, just without the original packaging. Then they make copies of instruction from somewhere so maybe that's why it says 2002. I very much doubt the brakes are from 2002 as the Avids are popular and they don't sit around for that long. Those brakes haven't really changed since 2002 so the instruction should remain pretty much the same.

It usually take 1 or 2 decent length rides for the brakes to get broken in. After that you better feather your front brakes or you'll be doing an imitation of Superman!
 
The BB7 brakes are the same as the 2002 Mountain Ball Bearing Brakes...
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the info, I should of posted in the brakes board but never noticed it before. The main problem I had was lack of stopping power, the last thing I'd be doing if I crammed the brakes on would be an "imitation of Superman", more like a runaway truck. I'll give them some more time to break in.
 
Eddie Mudster said:
Thanks for the info, I should of posted in the brakes board but never noticed it before. The main problem I had was lack of stopping power, the last thing I'd be doing if I crammed the brakes on would be an "imitation of Superman", more like a runaway truck. I'll give them some more time to break in.
Pretty sure it's a break-in issue. Try to go down a gentle but long hill and ride your brakes a lot. You won't be disappointed with Avid's stopping power. It WILL make you a superhero :D
 
avid 2006

ahimanic said:
Pretty sure it's a break-in issue. Try to go down a gentle but long hill and ride your brakes a lot. You won't be disappointed with Avid's stopping power. It WILL make you a superhero :D
I'm planning to replace my brake with avid BB7, but that will be next year. Have you heard of their next year (2006) model? Will there be some changes or improvements?
 
They have great power

I have bought i set 9 mounthes ago and not only me but all riders who i have met on the trails or on the net belive that it is the best mecanical dics's.
I dont know why you are having problems with them .Try to adjust the distance between the pads and the rotor by rolling the two red adjusters each pad has to be a milimeter far from the rotor also use good brake cables some of them lenthen when you sqeeze the brake lever and instead of transmiting your power from the lever to the caliper the power is lost trough the cable lenth.
Excuse me if my info's were silly or use less .
 
SABER_MTB said:
I have bought i set 9 mounthes ago and not only me but all riders who i have met on the trails or on the net belive that it is the best mecanical dics's.
I dont know why you are having problems with them .Try to adjust the distance between the pads and the rotor by rolling the two red adjusters each pad has to be a milimeter far from the rotor also use good brake cables some of them lenthen when you sqeeze the brake lever and instead of transmiting your power from the lever to the caliper the power is lost trough the cable lenth.
Excuse me if my info's were silly or use less .
You are right with the GOOD cables. The fattest prestreched one possible.

Then the diference in levers. Oh my . Loved the original avids I still run , then upgreded levers from deore to avid speed dials. Wow massive improvement.

Even get aftermarket pads from EBC. The red softer organic dh compound wears fast but the friction gives you extra superpowers. ( ;
 
prolly a bedding/break-in issue

You can try re-bedding the pads.

Basically, do this

1) remove the wheel
2) remove the brake pads, and remember which one was the inside and outside pad. I scratch an I and O in the back with a screwdriver.
3) lightly sand down the pad with 100 grit or so sandpaper. Clean with brake cleaner from the auto store or rubbing alcahol and a clean rag (not oily). Put them aside to dry.
4) take a clean piece of 100 grit (or so) sandpaper and make light swirly scratches around the brake track surface of the rotor. You don't have to go nuts, but try to cloud them up reasonably well. Scratches going radially across the rotor, rather than with the rotor will work better. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner or rubbing alcahol and a clean rag.
5) put it all back together.

Your brakes will suck for a while until the pads break into the rotor a bit. A bunch of hard stops should do it. I even ride my bike around the block in low gear while dragging the brakes one at a time.

Works for me.
 
Put your pads in the toaster oven face up with the broiler on for a half hour. I got fork oil on my brand new front pads. Tried sandpaper, soaking them in brake parts cleaner, taking my bike up the longest paved road around here and riding the brakes all the way down to try and heat them up (it seemed to work but when they cooled down they wouldn't stop for crap again).

I got mine new and don't remember having any issues at all. The toaster thing worked. I just re-installed them today and they work great again. I've heard of using a blow torch but i was afraid I would just overheat them and ruin the compound.

Maybe just buy some new pads for the front and see what happens.
 
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