I was thinking about going 1x10, But, I don't think I can do without the low gearing that I need to climb around here. So, I'm thinking of changing my XT M770 from a 22,32,42 to a 22,36, by taking off the 42 and changing the 32 to a 36. And I'm thinking about adding a Wolftooth 42 ring to my 11-34 cassette to give me some lower gearing. I'll also probably add an XT clutch rear changer too. And, I'll just adjust the front changer and use the same shifter. Anything wrong with this idea?
Thinking of changing my 3x9 to a 2x9.
Shawn in da Canyon
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One little FYI for you MCS, you don't have to worry about the front rings and the big gap and shifting performance, I run a 24/38 ring setup and my 38 ring is a straight, non-ramped ring and I have no issues using various FD setups over the last 5 years.
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Good to know. Any particular reason you "didn't" go with pinned/ramped? Other then shiggy runs them? Serious inquiry.
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I ran a Blackspire mono veloce 32T middle ring on my full suspension 9-speed triple until it was all used up. Only reason I went non-ramped was that's all I had in my stash at the time I built up that particular crank set. Shifting is ever so slightly smoother with ramped rings in my experience...
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In my experiments with various chainrings on a widely spaced double (22-36), in order of shifting precision - 1.Ramped chainring designed for that particular combination. 2.Unramped chainring. 3.Ramped chainring designed for a different combination.
So the wrong ramps are worse than no ramps at all, but a properly matched & ramped chainring is the best.
So the wrong ramps are worse than no ramps at all, but a properly matched & ramped chainring is the best.
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Yeah, MUCH cheaper :skep: Seriously 
Also what I got was the DH version Blackspire single ring, so once up there, there's no chain jumping off/dropping I mean honestly it might not be as smooth as a ramped ring, but for me I can't say I've noticed it other than when the FD adjustment was off.
Also what I got was the DH version Blackspire single ring, so once up there, there's no chain jumping off/dropping I mean honestly it might not be as smooth as a ramped ring, but for me I can't say I've noticed it other than when the FD adjustment was off.
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I had the usual 22/32/44, switched the big ring to a bash and the middle ring to 36t. Rear was 11-34 9spd. The suspension geometry of my bike (Prophet) has different pedal bob depending on chainring size, so as I was mostly running the 36t ring in the front (reserved 22t for really tight situations), I felt that pedal bob was increased too much for my liking. I switched back to 32t in the front and it is now my single front chainring. If I need more speed I'll just spin faster.
OP never stated what shifters and dérailleur he is using, so assuming everything is Shimano 9 speed :
1. If you want to use a clutch derailler or a 42t rear, will have to buy new 10 spd rear shifter, chain and cassette.
2. 42t rear sprocket is pointless for a 2x setup. 22f/34r or 24f/36r should be all the low end you'd ever need
The hardest part of going 3x to 2x is getting the front shifter working decently. FD's designed for 3x setups at best work OK for 2x. 10sp 2x setups are optimized for different chainline, and are basically a crapshoot whether or not they'll work. Shimano 10s 2x FDs are also minimum 38t size for large chainring. Sram 2x FD can go down to 36.
If you can do without the clutch derailler, stick to 9s, get a decent 36t chainring, a Shimano 665 FD and call it a day.
If going to 10s and keeping the M770 cranks, the 665 derailler will probably work best with the 9s front shifter. Other 10s FD or shifter combos might also work.
1. If you want to use a clutch derailler or a 42t rear, will have to buy new 10 spd rear shifter, chain and cassette.
2. 42t rear sprocket is pointless for a 2x setup. 22f/34r or 24f/36r should be all the low end you'd ever need
The hardest part of going 3x to 2x is getting the front shifter working decently. FD's designed for 3x setups at best work OK for 2x. 10sp 2x setups are optimized for different chainline, and are basically a crapshoot whether or not they'll work. Shimano 10s 2x FDs are also minimum 38t size for large chainring. Sram 2x FD can go down to 36.
If you can do without the clutch derailler, stick to 9s, get a decent 36t chainring, a Shimano 665 FD and call it a day.
If going to 10s and keeping the M770 cranks, the 665 derailler will probably work best with the 9s front shifter. Other 10s FD or shifter combos might also work.
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^^^^Not necessarily. The rest is all good info.
If the OP has 9 speed Shimano shifters, there is no practical way to use a 10 s clutch RD. It a would be pointless to buy a new SRAM 9s shifter just reuse a 9s cassette.
If the OP has Sram shifters, using a Clutch derailler with 9s cassette is an option, the 42t isn't.
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