Start by removing the brake rotor so it doesn't get greasy.
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Remove the cassette.
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On the drive side undo the axle nuts, you'll need 2 17mm cone wrenches.
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To remove the axle you will have to support the non drive side with a socket large enough and hit it from the drive side with a plastic mallet.
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Now to remove the freehub you will need a 14mm allen key, it needs to be at least 3in long because the bolt is accessed through the non-drive side.
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After the bolt is removed the hub will simply pull off.
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Now onto the freehub.
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Remove the seal that's on the drive side of the freehub if you haven't done so already.
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This will expose the drive side cartridge bearing. To get it out you'll have to tap it out with a screw driver from the opposite side, doing so you'll most likely damage the bearing. You could use a collet style bearing puller if you have one, with the price of bearings being so low I don't bother. The other method you could use is by putting the freehub into a vice (wrap the freehub in a towel so it doesn't get damaged), find a rod that is the same size as the ID of the bearing. Insert it into the bearing and gently pry in opposing directions until the bearing comes out. You can use the axle however you'll most likely damage the threads which is why I don't recommend it.
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With the bearing out of the way you can now remove the cup that holds the bearing and also keep the hub in one piece. This is a left hand thread, meaning you will turn clockwise to unscrew it.
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When you pull the bearing cup out do it over a container as now there's nothing holding the hub together and all the ball bearings will start to fall out. As you pull out the bearing cup under are a wave washer and 2 shims, remember in what order they came out as you'll want to reinstall them in the same order.
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Remove the 2 pawls, they are simply help by a retaining ring that acts as a spring as well to keep the pawls in the open position
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This is what you should have after taking it all apart.
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Clean all the parts in degreaser or solvent, I find it easiest to use a small paint brush. Brake cleaner from an automotive supplier works great to rinse the parts after you've cleaned them, just don't use it on any of the rubber seals as they could get damaged. The brake cleaner evaporates quickly which is why I like using it, just do it in a well ventilated areas as it has a strong odour.
Re-assembly.
Let's start with putting the pawls back on, put a light coat of wheel bearing grease and place the pawls into their slots.
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Now put the retaining ring back on to hold the pawls in place, it goes inside the groove.
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There are 52 ball bearings in total, 26 per side. Apply some grease to the inside race and start placing all 26 ball bearings. They will stick to the grease, but do this over a container as sometimes one or two might still fall off. Once all the ball bearings are in place slide the outer hub body onto the inner while holding the pawls closed. This is what you'll see from the drive side once you're done.
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And from the non-drive side
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Now install the 2 spacers and wave washer on the drive side and place the remaining 26 ball bearings into the outer race.
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You can now tighten the bearing cup with the tool, there's no preload to be worried about. The washers inside take care of the right spacing so just tighten it without using to much excessive force.
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It helps if you temporarily pop the freehub onto your wheel as a method of holding it while tightening that cup.
You will need 2 new sealed bearings to finish the job, they are both from enduro bearings even though one of them has a cane creek seal. The part numbers are HFR6006 for the drive side and 6902 (I went with the LLU Max bearings).
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Proceed by installing the drive side bearing first, you can use a socket that fits the bearing (use the back of the socket so that it supports both inner and outer races). You can either tap the bearing in (it won't sit flush with the bearing cup when all the way in) or use a table wise as a press.
I'll finish the write up tonight....
