8 months ago I broke the bank and purchased a Scott carbon 29er. It has Synchros rims (actually DT). I recently dented the rim during a ride and now I need a new rim. I was told by a bike store owner to get Stan's Arch EX rims. The Scott Bike rep told me Stan's weren't any better and to just re-order the Synchros (DT) rim at 1/2 the price. My original reaction was, why does a $3,000 bike have such weak rims? I am a casual rider, not a racer. This is my 3rd mtn bike and I've never had this happen on my much cheaper bikes. Any thoughts?
Stan's rims vs. Alex, DT, Synchros etc ?
rmoore
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Replacing the your rim with Arch EX is awesome for that money, do it! Also can't go tubeless because your 185?? lol false, I would go tubeless as well. Weigh your old rim once it has been removed and report back. It's just a curious data point for me and may be informative for u...
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After all this, just gotta say that a knowledgable shop owner who thinks you are too heavy to run tubeless would have me looking for a new shop.
SPP
SPP
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This is BS. I'm 185 lbs. and I've been riding tubeless for 5 years without issue. I even have customers who are over 250 lbs riding tubeless.
If you want a stout tubeless rim, Velocity Blunts. And use the Bontrager TLC rimstrip. Fits the rim perfectly and allows for seamless tubeless install.
I had a bike mechanic straighten out the dent and it has held on my last 5 rides, same trails, same "heavy 185 lbs.".
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When it comes to rims, it's more of a popularity contest on these forums than it is a critical comparison.
When I ask people what exactly they like about something, such as Stan's rims, and really press them for concrete comparisons to other alternatives, their answers are usually vague at best. Question them "police-style", asking the same question repeatedly, if the answer I get isn't perfectly clear, and they start to become uncertain about their own claims. I don't know how many times people tell me how "easy" it is to set a product up, due to videos offered online, then later admit to, and complain about many other things that might contradict their earlier claims, yet in their conclusion they rave about it and stand behind the brand... I guess it's all about the ownership experience, and not about the product sometimes. Give a man a few "working-class" videos on how to use something, and it seems they start loving that brand.
If the Syncros rims are 1/2 price, why not? Do you want your rim choice to be a detailed lesson in material science, knowing what exactly the tensile strength, Young's modulus, ultimate strength, etc. of the material used are? Do you want to be sold on which country its extruded at and how the ends are joined and how the spoke holes are designed? Do you want to jump on any trendy bandwagons, like the wider inner width and shape of bead hook?
I'd give you advice, but I don't think what I would do is any good. I typically downgrade to something more "heavy duty" when something breaks (becomes unusable/unfixable) and upgrade to something, broken or not, "lighter and at least as strong & stiff" when I spend too much time researching, with me opting for something better and better (and more expensive) the more I research.
Interesting to hear that the rim got fixed by just sort of straightening out the dent. Would imagine that the metal in that area lost a significant portion of its fatigue life in that process, even if it's new. People say replace more because that rim has a quite a bit of uncertainty to it, but a handy guy can squeeze out every bit of life out of it, and keep such things from winding up being stacked up at the land fill. At least you know that kind of metal is pliable enough to not fail violently, judging by how it dents.
When I ask people what exactly they like about something, such as Stan's rims, and really press them for concrete comparisons to other alternatives, their answers are usually vague at best. Question them "police-style", asking the same question repeatedly, if the answer I get isn't perfectly clear, and they start to become uncertain about their own claims. I don't know how many times people tell me how "easy" it is to set a product up, due to videos offered online, then later admit to, and complain about many other things that might contradict their earlier claims, yet in their conclusion they rave about it and stand behind the brand... I guess it's all about the ownership experience, and not about the product sometimes. Give a man a few "working-class" videos on how to use something, and it seems they start loving that brand.
If the Syncros rims are 1/2 price, why not? Do you want your rim choice to be a detailed lesson in material science, knowing what exactly the tensile strength, Young's modulus, ultimate strength, etc. of the material used are? Do you want to be sold on which country its extruded at and how the ends are joined and how the spoke holes are designed? Do you want to jump on any trendy bandwagons, like the wider inner width and shape of bead hook?
I'd give you advice, but I don't think what I would do is any good. I typically downgrade to something more "heavy duty" when something breaks (becomes unusable/unfixable) and upgrade to something, broken or not, "lighter and at least as strong & stiff" when I spend too much time researching, with me opting for something better and better (and more expensive) the more I research.
Interesting to hear that the rim got fixed by just sort of straightening out the dent. Would imagine that the metal in that area lost a significant portion of its fatigue life in that process, even if it's new. People say replace more because that rim has a quite a bit of uncertainty to it, but a handy guy can squeeze out every bit of life out of it, and keep such things from winding up being stacked up at the land fill. At least you know that kind of metal is pliable enough to not fail violently, judging by how it dents.
I appreciate your response, and I agree completely. I've been mtn biking since 2007, have had three bikes, two Gary Fishers and now a Scott. It seems to me that it's all a crap-shoot as to which components are the "best". My 2007 Fisher Marlin has never failed me. Nothing broke on it (excluding flat tires) in 2,000 miles. I still have it and use it as a "loaner" and when my other bikes are in the shop. My Fisher Cobia 29er had a cracked frame (warranty replacement), broken chain, broken spokes which resulted in a warranty replacement Alex rim. Then I sold it to get the Scott which had the dented rim. I'm not a "hard rider" so the dented rim kind of surprised me. I decided to let a bike mechanic take the bend out. No problems so far. I talked to a national Scott bike rep and he told me to just replace the Synchros rim at 1/2 the price instead of going Stan's. I thought I'd try the "cheap fix" first. I'm happy with the Scott over-all, but I look at that old 2007 Fisher Marlin ($450) and wonder why I ever "upgraded". This ain't road biking. I have a 2003 steel frame Lemond road bike that has never let me down. Different animal I guess. It's fun to read all of the responses though.
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I use Stans, do I think they are the best? No idea, they are strong have have survived a few front wheel endos and stayed true where as my WTB i23 bent like a taco with a similar endo at a low speed. I weigh 215-220 on any given day and the tires are tubeless and have never burped once. I have not tested other rims for this but these are holding my tires very very well and see no need to try something different when these work so well. I replaced my taco WTB with another Stans Arch EX. Built it myself this time, nice and true, my first 29er wheel build and only second wheel in my life. I am waiting for my spoke gauge to make sure I have the tension right then giving it a workout. Making sure this park truing stand gets used.
Thanks. Most everyone agrees that Stan's Arch EX is the way to go. I finally gave up and I simply put a tube back in and have been fine ever sense. Front tire is tubeless with no problems. At some point I'll buy the Stan's rims and go tubeless. Wheel building looks a little out of my league. Impressive.
You know I thought that as well with building wheels, read a really good PDF on wheel building. Made a few tools they suggested to have which was so easy to make with my dremel and an old screw driver, take your time is the key. You will be surprised what you can do with a few simple tools. I watched a few vids on youtube as well for lacing the wheel. I did buy a tension meter from park just to make sure the spokes are properly tensioned, so I read is the whole key to a great wheel is proper spoke tension.
Great post. Thanks. My latest issue with this whole problem is with the new tire I bought to replace the Rocket Ron that had a torn sidewall due to the dented rim. I bought a $90 Rocket Ron that is now burping on all of my rides. It doesn't unseat itself, but I do have to immediately put some air back in. I was told the Rocket Ron tire I bought is a racing tire and is too light with weak sidewalls. Now I have a tube in it and have just given up on tubeless.
In case any of you are interested, my problem has been solved! I took the advice of several of you and purchased Stan's Arch EX rims and switched from Rocket Ron's Evo tires to Maxxis Ardent and Ignitor. Front and rear respectively.
Everything is fine. My "heavy" weight (185 lbs) is no longer a problem for tubeless as the LBS implied. Got the work done at local REI by a very reliable mechanic. They also cut me a deal that local bike shops couldn't come close to matching. I've always gone with local bike shops but now I'm thinking differently.
Thanks for all of your posts! I've learned quite a bit about tubeless tires and rims.
Everything is fine. My "heavy" weight (185 lbs) is no longer a problem for tubeless as the LBS implied. Got the work done at local REI by a very reliable mechanic. They also cut me a deal that local bike shops couldn't come close to matching. I've always gone with local bike shops but now I'm thinking differently.
Thanks for all of your posts! I've learned quite a bit about tubeless tires and rims.
Like you I have been more and more dissapointed in bikes I spend more and more on. Stuff breaks and fails on the new ones that held up on the old cheaper ones.
I hear the senitiment about not buying the latest and greatest fancy branded expensive stuff. Ti was all the rage a decade or more back, but I never saw any evidence that it was any better for me.
But sometimes the masses are just right. I like it when I hear more and more stories of "I beat product X to death for 2 years and it is still good". It often means more to me than stories about the latest marketing buzz words. In this case I bet your new parts are the solution to your problems long term. Sometimes the stuff that slips your mind because you just don't have to worry about it and it just works is best. I hope you foget all about your new wheels and tires because they just do what any other wheel and tire does.
Not that it hasn't been said, but my rebranded Stan's EX have held up. The wheels on my $2000 bike puked after the first year. I feel your pain.
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I have the Stan's Flow and they seem bombproof. I also have DT Swiss but I haven't converted to tubeless. The difference in width is noticeable when tubeless but the DT's are eye letted and that could make a difference for long term use.
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I think it's worth pointing out that the quality of the build is just as important, if not more so, than the rim itself. A properly tensioned arch is probably stronger than a flow with wildly uneven spoke tensions
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After switching back to and older wheel (to use a tire better suited for loose) I will say the Arch EX is a bit noodley as a front wheel. I'm thinking a Light Bicycle carbon front wheel would be ideal.
I will also say after switching back to the Arch EX I was quite happy about it's light and quicker steering
I didn't mind the noodley at all at that point. It would be nice to have something stiffer at the same weight though.
I will also say after switching back to the Arch EX I was quite happy about it's light and quicker steering
I didn't mind the noodley at all at that point. It would be nice to have something stiffer at the same weight though.21 - 40 of 44 Posts
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