8 months ago I broke the bank and purchased a Scott carbon 29er. It has Synchros rims (actually DT). I recently dented the rim during a ride and now I need a new rim. I was told by a bike store owner to get Stan's Arch EX rims. The Scott Bike rep told me Stan's weren't any better and to just re-order the Synchros (DT) rim at 1/2 the price. My original reaction was, why does a $3,000 bike have such weak rims? I am a casual rider, not a racer. This is my 3rd mtn bike and I've never had this happen on my much cheaper bikes. Any thoughts?
Stan's rims vs. Alex, DT, Synchros etc ?
rmoore
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8 months ago I broke the bank and purchased a Scott carbon 29er. It has Synchros rims (actually DT). I recently dented the rim during a ride and now I need a new rim. I was told by a bike store owner to get Stan's Arch EX rims. The Scott Bike rep told me Stan's weren't any better and to just re-order the Synchros (DT) rim at 1/2 the price. My original reaction was, why does a $3,000 bike have such weak rims? I am a casual rider, not a racer. This is my 3rd mtn bike and I've never had this happen on my much cheaper bikes. Any thoughts?
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Light, Strong and Cheap Pick any two.
A "new" rim is not like swapping pedals. You are preparing to have a wheel re-built by your LBS. What is the total cost?
Expect the following costs:
Spokes - $1-$2 each
Nipples - $0.75ish each
Rim - Varies - Your choice
Labor - Varies - I was just quoted $90 USD at my LBS
I would buy new spokes (you will likely have to use new spokes if you change rims) and nipples. I never liked to re-use spokes - increases labor to re-use them and they may have damage to them.
You may be better off purchasing a new already built wheel.
Expect the following costs:
Spokes - $1-$2 each
Nipples - $0.75ish each
Rim - Varies - Your choice
Labor - Varies - I was just quoted $90 USD at my LBS
I would buy new spokes (you will likely have to use new spokes if you change rims) and nipples. I never liked to re-use spokes - increases labor to re-use them and they may have damage to them.
You may be better off purchasing a new already built wheel.
I've been quoted $150 for a Stan's Arch Ex including labor and using my original hub. It would require new spokes as well (also included in price). I'm still trying to find answers about rims in general. Which rims are most durable?
Seems to be a reasonable price. If you are willing to spend that go for it. Assuming the shop does a quality build, it will be a good wheel.
I prefer DT competition spokes and alloy nipples - I would not want a build with straight gauge spokes and brass nipples for a variety of reasons. Strength and weight top the list.
As far as the rep saying our rim is just as good for half the price, well I find that suspicious. I am not sure which rim you have. Need more info on rim model. However, arch ex have a good reputation. I currently have flow ex and really like them.
As far as durability of rims, you can dent pretty much anything given the right circumstances. I have dented a few rims (both good and cheap) - always my fault: insufficient air pressure, casing a landing, blasting a manhole cover, etc.
If you fish, you lose lures. If you bike, you get flats, stretch chains, wear out components, occasionally crash, and break stuff. It happens.
I prefer DT competition spokes and alloy nipples - I would not want a build with straight gauge spokes and brass nipples for a variety of reasons. Strength and weight top the list.
As far as the rep saying our rim is just as good for half the price, well I find that suspicious. I am not sure which rim you have. Need more info on rim model. However, arch ex have a good reputation. I currently have flow ex and really like them.
As far as durability of rims, you can dent pretty much anything given the right circumstances. I have dented a few rims (both good and cheap) - always my fault: insufficient air pressure, casing a landing, blasting a manhole cover, etc.
If you fish, you lose lures. If you bike, you get flats, stretch chains, wear out components, occasionally crash, and break stuff. It happens.
Yeah, the bike store owner told me that "heavier" riders shouldn't go tubeless. I'm 5'11" and weigh 185. I didn't realize I was "heavy". Should I not be riding tubeless?
Thanks for the reply. Spokes and rims are DT with "Synchros" decals. I get the fishing metaphor since I fly-fish. I expect to lose lures, break lines, but I don't expect the rod to break in half unexpectedly, or eyelets to drop off. I expect tires to flat, chains to break, break pads to wear out, etc. But with the type of riding I do, I didn't expect to dent a rim. I've had three mtn bikes in 6 years and never dented or bent a rim. Always ride the same trails. Weigh the same. Ride the same. I just don't get it. Spending $3,000 and then being told the rims are cheap, doesn't make sense to me. I wish the bike store owner had told me this in the beginning.
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I don't see the logic in that statement myself.
You either had to hit something REALLY hard or were underinflated, rims don't generally dent for no good reason, what pressure were you running at the time of the dent? Re re-using spokes: I built the rear on my 26er in the early '90s using Ritchie/DT db spokes (14/16 iirc) and alloy nipples, since then I've worn out and replaced 3 or 4 rims on the same hub/spokes/nipples, doing quite a few cat1 races and open class cx way back when. I'm 6'3 and have been between 175 and 200# on that bike, but I tend to not break much stuff in general. -just my experience, I understand some people have had bad luck re-using spokes and nipples, I've had bad luck with anything other than DT spokes&nipples.
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1,716 Posts
Arch is fine with your weight, unless you want a little bigger tire footprint & slightly stronger rim, then go flow. The heavy rider not going tubeless comment by your bike shop is pretty laughable. I'm 225 geared up and been running tubeless with no problems for 2 years now.
Thanks. I didn't think it made sense that I weighed too much to go tubeless.
I've always run 30 to 35 psi. But, I was losing air pressure between rides so I may have been under-inflated during a ride which caused the dented rim. I didn't feel anything though.
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495 Posts
Indeed, at 185lbs not sure why your shop would tell you not to go tubeless. There are some very lightweight race-day rims on the market that might be too light for someone your size, but an Arch is certainly not one of them.
That said, I'm 200lbs and have dented a Flow - only because I was playing around with tire pressures and went a bit too low on a rocky trail and banged the bejeezus out of the rim a few times. But that's strictly operator error, not a flaw with the rim.
As for rims I just tacoed a WTB i23 frequency Team issue with a relatively light wipeout, was very shocked that the front tire was whistled to tell you the truth. On my other bike I have Stans Arch EX and I am around 225 geared and have had the same wipeouts with these rims holding true. In all honesty it was a light front tire wash out and I never hit the ground, bike slide out I unclipped and was on my feet, picked up bike tacoed front wheel, I was like WTF! **** happens, rebuild it and move on, ordered another Stans.
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That's crazy to hear... I've read good things about the i23's... but they are (somewhat) new yet. I've been on the WTF train with rims as well. It's funny how you can taco sometimes on the stupidest landings or wipeout... I suppose just hitting it right and having your weight on it?
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If your shop will replace the rim and spokes, including labor fro $150, that's a really good deal. Go with the Arch EX. I've ridden DT rims and Stan's, both tubeless and both on rough, rocky terrain. The DT rims were trashed within 4 months. They just seemed very soft. I've been running Flows for years tubeless on my SS. A friend runs the Arch, also tubeless. We ride in some of the rockiest terrain you can find, every ride. We both weigh 190. We are also running Ardent 2.4's up front. At your weight, you should be able to run lower pressure than 30 and have confidence in your rims. The big benefit of tubeless is better traction. If you're running 30-35, you're missing out.
Go with the Stan's. Definitely a more stout rim. If you want no more worries, go with the Flow. It only weighs 50 grams more and you'll have a wider footprint on whichever tire you're running.
Good luck!
Go with the Stan's. Definitely a more stout rim. If you want no more worries, go with the Flow. It only weighs 50 grams more and you'll have a wider footprint on whichever tire you're running.
Good luck!
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6,756 Posts
Rim dents are common with lighter weight rims when hitting sharp rocks at speed. Running tubeless encourages lower pressures and dents happen more frequently. DT rims are softer than many and dent more easily.
Most dents can be straitened to be good enough for holding tubeless air pressures. There is a Park tool for straitening dents, or hand pliers can do it without scratching if using something to protect the rim such as thin cardboard.
An experienced mountain bike shop can straighten rim dents in a few minutes, tire remounting adds time.
Most dents can be straitened to be good enough for holding tubeless air pressures. There is a Park tool for straitening dents, or hand pliers can do it without scratching if using something to protect the rim such as thin cardboard.
An experienced mountain bike shop can straighten rim dents in a few minutes, tire remounting adds time.
yes..how bad is the dent? My rear is worn out and needs replacing , but still holds air and goes round. On a mtb with low pressures and fat tyres I doubt I'd feel a huge difference. My VXC's are pretty soft and I have bent the rim beads back so many times I can't remember. If the rim is soft it may bend easily but it's probably not going to crack first easily.
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