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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I think you should get your meter working right before you start quoting numbers for spoke tension.
Well, I can't argue with that.

Here is a picture of the meter and the calibration sheet that came with it. Looking at other pictures of calibration sheets for this model of meter, it seems that my measurement of 73 corresponds to somewhere in the neighborhood of 130-160 kgf, that's where I got the numbers. And I know mine can't be that far off from that, because if the spring was weak from age, it would just score lower numbers, and I have measured some other wheels that I didn't build, and the drive side spokes measured in the 60's. I'll take the wheel to my LBS tomorrow and see what they measure the tension as.

 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Was there any observable deformation to the diameter or shape of the elongated spoke?

urmb
The center of the spoke does seem to be about .01 mm smaller than a fresh spoke. It's hard to get an exact measurement, but after averaging ten measurements for each, here is about a .01 mm difference, 1.754 vs 1.763. When holding both the spokes in the calipers at the same time, it is clear that the longer one is skinnier because it slips down - the calipers don't grip it.
 
Is your spoke tension ever lower after stress relieving?
Yes, but only once. The first round of stress relieving drops the tension 10 or 15 kgf. I attribute this to the elbow bending and settling into the hub. The second+ round of stress relieving doesnt drop tension unless a spoke is wound up.

If your conclusion was true, stress relieving a wheel built to 130 kgf would drop the tension every time. Or simply riding it would drop tension every ride. This never happens.
Why do people stop at around 140 kgf?
As someone said, because the rim would collapse. 125kg is a pretty standard max tension for the rim. Overtensioned rims get wobbly and dont last.
It would seem the reason that 130 kgf -140 kgf is the max that people tension their spokes to is because it is the max they can tension their spokes to
.Nobody reports that they get more tension in their spokes than around 140.
They'll definitely go higher. A lot higher. It'll ruin your nipples or rim though. Theres been lots and lots of reports of poor builds way over 140. Its a bad build though, ~125 is the max tension you want to use unless you've got proprietary spokes.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
If your conclusion was true, stress relieving a wheel built to 130 kgf would drop the tension every time. Or simply riding it would drop tension every ride. This never happens.
Once you've stress relieved it, it has dropped tension and is now not at the yield point anymore. Stress relieving it again might not bring it past the yield point again, so the tension wouldn't change, because you wouldn't plastically stretch it.

The fact that it does lower tension when you do it once is evidence that you are taking it past the yield point when stress relieving.

And I don't think riding a wheel causes tensions to rise. I think the highest spoke tension the wheel ever has are when it is in the trueing stand.
 
If a spoke yields at 150 kgf, it will plastically deform any time it hits that limit. After stress relieving the wheel is retensioned up to 130 kgf and stress relieved again. It doesnt drop tension or plastically deform the second time is what im saying, despite being taken to the same tension during stress relieving again.

The tension drop is from the spoke settling and being destressed. You dont get that big drop again.

Your experience is pretty interesting, I have no idea how you got that crazy amount of stretch, but you should definitely know that no one else is getting that! Thats assuming your tension meter is reading accurately and all this really is happening at those tensions.
 
...I have figured it out, and it is that my tensiometer is not in kgf. Looking for a photo of the wheelsmith tensiometer I noticed that they come with a calibration sheet, which I must've lost a long time ago...
I trust that you found the exact calibration sheet for your tensionometer, because each Wheelsmith tensionometer has their own calibration sheet. You can also send them back to Wheelsmith for re-calibration.

Tip, make a copy of your calibration sheet, cut it out, and glue it to the inside lid of the tensionometer box. That way the sheet is always with the tool! Advanced tip, highlight the desired tension numbers for each spoke profile, so at a glance you can easily see what reading you need.
 
This thread should serve as a reminder that you should do a cursory spoke pluck test to see if your tensions are in the ballpark.
On my front wheel, the disc side goes ding, the non disc side goes dong.

Is that right?

Do I have a good ding dong?
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Well, I tested my spoke tensions on a calibrated spoke tension gauge at my LBS. They were mostly in the 160's, one was 172, and a couple in the 150's. I measured 16.

I tested one more fresh DT spoke from the box and got it up to 175 before it started stretching and would not get to any higher tension, i.e. it hit its yield limit.

The next step is to test other spokes. I have a wheel built with 14/15 Wheelsmith spokes, so I tested one of them. I removed the nipple, installed a hex brass one, and cranked it up. It got to 173 kgf and then no more - many more twists, full complete twists, with an electric drill, and no higher tension, in fact it went down a little, until the nipple gave way.

So, here it is:
the yield strength of the 14/15 spokes we use is around 175 kgf.

If you are familiar with hardened steel wire, like piano wire, you'll know that it is hard to bend, I mean to deform. Spokes are easy to deform. Compare a 2mm piece of piano wire to a spoke. The spoke is much easier to deform, this is the same thing as saying the yield strength is much lower. And I think we want them this way. I don't know if I'd want a wheel built with piano wire, even if it were rust proof.

I haven't tested Sapim spokes. But I doubt they're different, because I think this is how spokes are supposed to be. I'll explain:

If I were a spoke engineer, I think the goals would be to:
(1) maximize fatigue strength*, and
(2) aim to get yield strength above what is needed for high tension wheels, but keeping ductility as high as possible. High ductility means low yield strength. So, I would want to get the yield strength as high as is needed, but no more, i.e. slightly above that needed for high tension wheels.
*[I think I might not be using this term correctly, but I mean durability.]

Why do we want it to be ductile?
Don't we want them conformable to some degree?
I think it's safer, if the spoke is ever exposed to an extreme stress, it will just stretch, it takes a great deal more energy to break a ductile material than a non-ductile one (this energy is the area under the curve on a stress/strain graph, which is much bigger for a ductile material than a brittle material).
It prevents people from getting out of line with spoke tensions.
Their easier to manufacture.
And I don't think stress-relieving would have much effect on piano wire. (I suspect this last one might be the biggest reason, the metallurgical reason).

Now, some people (e.g. Jobst Brandt) say that if stress is more than 1/3 of the yield strength, fatigue life is greatly diminished. After seeing a metallurgist ripping him a new one on alt.bicycles.tech at google groups for his lack of metallurgy knowledge and metal fracture knowledge, I decided I needed to look this up.

From Metal Fatigue

"Experiments have shown little direct relationship between the fatigue limit and the yield strength ,ductility etc. However some relationship between the fatigue limit and the tensile strength Su has been established for unotched polished specimens tested using the rotating beam method."
[copied and pasted]

You can understand why spoke companies don't tell you this. Your average spoke consume probably doesnt distinguish much between ultimate tensile strength and yield strength (I know I didn't until recently, and I know a lot more about this stuff than anybody else I know, (but I don't know that many people)), and it would be easy for a company to say "our spokes have a tensile strength of 180,000 psi, but the yield strength of our competitors is only 90,000 psi" or some other manipulation of the facts. On Wheelsmith's web site they say they make the "ideal spoke", not the strongest, but ideal. It's nice and clear to be able claim that you make the strongest thing, and give some numbers, but you get into muddies waters when your claims are about the best compromise.

If you don't believe me, I urge you to try for yourself to get a 14/15 spoke tension over 180 kgf.

----------------------------------------------------

I decided to do some testing on a fresh spoke to get some data. I installed it and got it up to a mild tension, then turned the nipple 360 degrees (I put a post-it on the spoke and compensated for spoke wind up) and recorded the tension. Then I repeated it, and repeated it, ...

The results were:
Start. 61 kgf
+1 turn 90
+2 turns 113
+3 turns 137
+4 turns 163
+5 turns 171
+7 turns 175
+8 turns 170
+9 turns 171
 
No time to go through this entire thread right now, but interesting and I'll be back tonight to go through it, but just wanted to share my quick $0.02

I switched to DT Swiss Comp spokes must be 5 years ago and I've never had a problem building up wheels and having them stretch and I usually build to around 120-130 Kgf unless building Stans rims where I keep it under 110 for Flows and 100 for Crests. I think you better find you conversion sheet for that meter, I think you'll find your "70" translates into a much higher tension that the sheet you posted lists if you're managing to stretch spokes OR you've got a bad batch or knock off spokes. Have you by chance bought another set of spokes to test and see if you get the same results?
 
Are people able to get over 110 kgf in their revolution spokes?
I once put a Revolution spoke in an old wheel to see how high I could get the tension, because I did hear they stretch out before they can get to the proper tension for the drive side of a rear wheel/disc side of a front wheel. I managed to get it up to 180 kgf without any permanent elongation (and then gave up trying to twist the nipple).

Since then I've build up a set of 27.5" mountain wheels for myself with Revolutions on them at 120 kgf. Only maybe 90-100km on them so far but they have taken some drops and done some dirt jumps and seem fine.
 
In short, even with the OP's data, normal wheels built normally, dont have any problems with elongation or ever get close to yield. With everyone elses data, we're SO far away from yield that its a non-issue. Even 170 kgf is insane high tension beyond what any rim specs.
 
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