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AM/Enduro Geometry

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#21 ·
Wow! I get bored often too and do these kinds of comparisons all the time on scratch paper. But never to this extent and I always end up just throwing them away. I’ve always wanted to make a master list on Excel or something.

This is sooo awesome! This list will definitely come in handy. Thanks for putting in the time and sharing!:thumbsup:

(I think this thread needs to become a “sticky”)
 
#22 ·
Wow! I get bored often too and do these kinds of comparisons all the time on scratch paper. But never to this extent and I always end up just throwing them away. I’ve always wanted to make a master list on Excel or something.

This is sooo awesome! This list will definitely come in handy. Thanks for putting in the time and sharing!:thumbsup:

(I think this thread needs to become a “sticky”)
 
#26 ·
Couple interesting ones from Morewood, Jabula and Sukuma:

Jabula M: HTA = 66.5°, BBH = +10mm, CS = 433mm, WB = 1139mm, TTH = 585mm, STA = 72.5°, Reach = 399mm

Sukuma M: HTA = 67.5°, BBH = +5mm, CS = 428mm, WB = 1116mm, TTH = 585mm, STA = 72.5°, Reach = 401mm
 
#30 ·
AM setup with 70 HA? too sharp? thinking of On one Inbred 26 vs Evo 456

what are the disadvantages of using a frame with a 70 degree HA and 73 degree seat angle for a AM setup. I currently have a GT Zaskar but it is a horrible AM bike, sucks for downhill but amazing for long days and uphill. Thinking of getting either an on one inbred or a 456 Evo. I dont want to sacrifice long all day rides, but i want something that can bomb hills much better than my GT. is the ibred a good mix? or should i go for more slack HA?
thanks
 
#31 ·
70 degrees is generally going to suck on the more demanding AM type downhills, will be quite twitchy on the steering front. As a rule you would want to be running about 68-66 degrees for more stability. If you don't like the Zaskar, which if I recall has a 71 degree HA, you won't like anything with 70 either.
 
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#32 ·
thanks for the feedback.
ok, my main concern is that I only have a 100mm fork and dont have enough cash for an upgrade this summer, so wondering if a slack HA will be weird with only a 100mm fork or if it will be fine?
 
#33 ·
It will steepen the head angle and also lower the bottom bracket height, so pedal strikes may become an issue and the handling will be all twitchy. If the 456 evo is designed for a fork in the 140-150mm range, I'd personally be quite cautious about putting a fork with only that much travel on it. The inbred on the other hand is designed for a 120mm fork, so the above issues won't be so bad, but will still have an effect.
 
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#34 ·
Just stumbled upon this. Interesting statistics. However, you might want to consider the actual frame size rather than the manufacturer frame size. For example, a Nomad L fits the same as an Enduro M. This will alter your wheelbase to chainstay ratios (as well as other possible geometries). Ibis fits the same way. You have to consider the chicken or the egg (of sorts) scenario. Do mini-link bikes run small because they copied the sizing from the original Nomad? (which was a benchmark bike in it's time)

I don't really know much, but these are just some random thoughts I had while looking over the charts. I wouldn't be surprised if there are other wierd anomolies that can be attributed to similar factors.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Hei! Yes i agree, there are a lot of things that would make this chart more useful, but it takes a lot of time to get all the data. Maybe someday...
First i need to update it with new 2014 bikes, geometries changed a lot from previous year.
 
#37 ·
Three years later and the rest of the bike world is catching up to the early adapters. I new chart with Reach vs Stack on the X, Y respectively with all the new bikes would be cool. I've seen one somewhere that's probably a year or two old now but can't seem to find it. I think that's one of the best metrics for determining where the bike falls with regards to comparative sizing.
 
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