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Not sure whether to start a new thread or continue this one since the latter replies seem to describe the issue I'm having. Since I got my bike I've never ventured with the front shifter as I found that it didn't shift quite as nicely as the rear, so I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong or is there something wrong with the front shifter. I always keep the front in the middle ring, but today I decided to experiment with the front so I downshifted to the leftmost ring. Everything was fine until I wanted to upshift back to the middle ring. While pedaling I upshifted the front, but the chain wouldn't catch to the middle ring so the shifter was on 2, but the chain was still on 1. This created this rattling noise that was quite annoying so I downshifted again to make the noise go away. This happened a few times before I was able to get back into the middle ring. I believe I was pedaling forward not too fast and not too slow, but the damn chain just wouldn't catch. My rear was not on the leftmost ring, but was on maybe the second or third to the left. Should I have moved it all the way to the left?
 
dimm0k said:
Not sure whether to start a new thread or continue this one since the latter replies seem to describe the issue I'm having. Since I got my bike I've never ventured with the front shifter as I found that it didn't shift quite as nicely as the rear, so I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong or is there something wrong with the front shifter. I always keep the front in the middle ring, but today I decided to experiment with the front so I downshifted to the leftmost ring. Everything was fine until I wanted to upshift back to the middle ring. While pedaling I upshifted the front, but the chain wouldn't catch to the middle ring so the shifter was on 2, but the chain was still on 1. This created this rattling noise that was quite annoying so I downshifted again to make the noise go away. This happened a few times before I was able to get back into the middle ring. I believe I was pedaling forward not too fast and not too slow, but the damn chain just wouldn't catch. My rear was not on the leftmost ring, but was on maybe the second or third to the left. Should I have moved it all the way to the left?
Depending on what shifter you have, sometimes you need to push the shifter a little past where it clicks, until the chain catches, then let off.

Do a search on how to set up a front derailleur.
 
bitewerks said:
Anyone know if some shifters are built stronger to withstand abuse & crashes? Seems like that's a pretty likely component to get damaged... Thankfully, it was a free replacement for me!
Did the same with my SRAM X-5's. Given that they are plastic, I don't see how they won't break in the right crash situation. Easy solution is not to wreck. Cheaper too. :D

Far as the gear question - it took me a while to get the hang of smooth shifting and the right gear combinations. I don't ever use my smallest chainring and rarely use my largest. There are 5 combos on my middle that i use almost exclusively. Even now my largest chainring shifts a little weird, it takes just the right amount of speed and torque (or lack of it) for my chain to jump to the largest.

Like everything else, it's about practice and experience.
 
kapusta said:
Depending on what shifter you have, sometimes you need to push the shifter a little past where it clicks, until the chain catches, then let off.

Do a search on how to set up a front derailleur.
How do I know if I have a shifter that needs to work in that fashion? I have the SRAM X-4 shifters and the rear shifting works nicely... it's just the front that's misbehaving.
 
I think there are some good points here. When assembling bikes out of the box, most come with assembly directions. In those directions, the manufacturer usually recommends certain chainring-to-cog combinations, because it avoids cross-chaining, which will prolong the life of the chain. That doesn't mean that you HAVE to pair these certain combinations, only that it is recommended for overall efficiency. I cross-chain fairly frequently, but on climbs I usually stick to second gear in the first cog, and on the rest of the trail I cross-chain any different combination in the second chainring. Also, when it comes to chain rub it's usually a matter of deraileur height, cable tension, setting the top and bottom limits, and aligning the deraileur to be paralell with the chainrings.
 
I was wondering if there are particular situations when you're better off switching the front or rear gears to change speed? I normally change the front gear speed when I want a big speed change rapidly such as if I'm on flat pavement and a sudden steep hill appears, and change the rear gear for more subtle changes like a slight change in the path's inclination.

Am I using them right?

Thanks
It is very situational, but this is how I use my 3x9 (3 in the front , 9 in the back). 44,32,22 Tooth count and 11-34 cassette (11 on small cog, 34 on the big)

Middle chain ring for most terrain. Level ground to moderate climbs and descents. Just about every ride starts in the middle chain ring and use all 9 rear cogs with the middle ring. I use the big ring for street riding or for fire road descents. Last ride I had smooth fire road descent and hit 25 mph using my big ring and small cog giving max speed. I also used the big ring on 15-18 mph single track descent to minimize chain slap. No pedaling needed, but the bigger ring and corresponding bigger rear cog tightens up the chain some as compared to middle ring and small rear cog. I tend you use only the smallest 5-6 cogs in the back to reduce cross chaining. I never use the big ring and my 34 tooth large cog. There to severe of an angle between the front and rear gears putting side load in the chain. Plus a 44 /34 ratio is nearly duplicated by 32/ 26 or 32/23 combo. These are using the middle ring middle cogs. Same applies to using a 22/11 combo. That is very similar to 32/17 ratio. This the main reason why you can choose to not use certain combinations that might cause cross chaining.

Now.. Small ring... I use that for longer and tougher climbs. While I have the same exact gear ratio in my middle ring 32/34 = 22/23 the middle ring combo leaves me no place to drop a gear. The reason is the front derailuer works very poorly shifting under load. The rear does not work well under load either, but a slight pause and it will shift. The front will drag for 4-5 crank rotations and may never shift. So if I am on a long steep grinder of a climb I will use the small ring and smaller cog. So for example

32/34 = Middle ring / 9 cog = So nowhere to go for more gearing other than big ring

22/23 = small ring / 6 cog = I still have 3 more cogs in the rear to lower down to in case I need them at an easy turn.

Once I finish the climb and start the descent I will change from the small ring to the middle ring bring the ratios up quickly for the higher speed stuff.

The hardest parts are quick dips where the trail goes from descent to very steep up. If the path is smooth you can attempt to roll the up with momentum. Take the drop fast and hope you have enough speed to pull you most of the way up the hill in big gear (higher speed). You may need to stand and mash completed it. Or when it is really hard there might be turn at the bottom killing all your momentum. In these cases you need drop gears early and may over spin some parts have enough to make it over the top. I have also down shifted cogs in the back and pedaled a few turns while riding the brakes just to change gears to be ready for the climb out. If you need to put power down you rather not be having the derailuers trying to change gears as that increases the risk of breaking stuff. You want to already be in the right gear.
 
The hardest parts are quick dips where the trail goes from descent to very steep up. If the path is smooth you can attempt to roll the up with momentum. Take the drop fast and hope you have enough speed to pull you most of the way up the hill in big gear (higher speed). You may need to stand and mash completed it. Or when it is really hard there might be turn at the bottom killing all your momentum. In these cases you need drop gears early and may over spin some parts have enough to make it over the top. I have also down shifted cogs in the back and pedaled a few turns while riding the brakes just to change gears to be ready for the climb out. If you need to put power down you rather not be having the derailuers trying to change gears as that increases the risk of breaking stuff. You want to already be in the right gear.
Great info in this thread. This last one in particular is interesting because one of the local trails I ride is exactly as this. I practically need to spin on the steep and pretty short uphills and then don't really have time to switch gears going down, but had I I might have been able to make it up the other hill.

Either way I have yet to find a way to make it completely smooth lol.
 
I was wondering if there are particular situations when you're better off switching the front or rear gears to change speed? I normally change the front gear speed when I want a big speed change rapidly such as if I'm on flat pavement and a sudden steep hill appears, and change the rear gear for more subtle changes like a slight change in the path's inclination.

Am I using them right?

Thanks
Yup Pretty close shifting the front ring early to get into the right range...then trimming with the RD...

Of course on the other hand...

if you have a steep short gully to deal with...

I put it in the big ring and small on the rear and blast down has fast as I can...then on the up hill I grab a handful of RD to get to lower and lower gears...

No time to reliabley shift the front...Anyway I end up cross chained and able to clean the section....most I ride with can't get it clean, cause they either drop the chain trying to get into a lower front ring....or havn't blasted down fast enough to get up the other side.
 
Instead of focusing on putting power down between the ups and downs, shift into second and focus on lowering your center of gravity and picking the right line. You can start at a higher gear in the rear if you'd like, just be careful about peeling off gears. The only time I hammer a downhill in third is if it's a non-technical section and I know the next hill is short and steep. If you do that, attack early and mash the pedals. Select the right gear in the back and peel off as you get closer to cresting the hill and lose momentum.
 
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