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mucho aggro
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209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i've got a '05 z1 freeride 1 on my skinky....

it may have an issue - but i'm not sure where to start....

the right leg (rebound leg?) on the z1 has a bit of play when you have the brake on and push on the bars (and yes, i've isolated it to the area of the stanchion @ the dust seal - and it seems to go away if you compress the fork down and then try to find the play....

where do I start?

åaron
 

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hardcore on the bunnyhill
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159 Posts
amorphous said:
i've isolated it to the area of the stanchion @ the dust seal
Heh heh....stanction

Sorry I don't know anything about this stuff, but I just thought it was funny because I always call them stanctions too.
 

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mucho aggro
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209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
emvath said:
Heh heh....stanction

Sorry I don't know anything about this stuff, but I just thought it was funny because I always call them stanctions too.
um, that's not what tehy ARE?>

anyway.....

i've been f'ing with it....when your REALLY compress it (40mm +) it goes away. Gawd this has got me mifted. I just need to know how to pull it apart I guess....check the oil???

å
 

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Just another FOC'er
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2,222 Posts
amorphous said:
could be...where does one score an exploded diagram?

å
Sounds like the bushing to me as well. That's the bearing surface between the stanchions and lowers.

Unlike Rockshox, Marz is horrible about providing useful manuals. I don't think they want any owners actually working on their forks. I take them apart anyway, manual or not, and just kind of figure it out as I go.
 

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Any looseness between the upper (stanchions) and the lower casting HAS to be due to the bushings, end of story. The bushings are the only part (other than the seals) that touches both parts...they are attached to the inside of the lowers and provide a surface for the stanchions to slide on. You could have a worn out, or just bad or poorly fitted bushing that would cause excessive slop.

Keep in mind..there should be some movement between the upper and lowers. If they were to fit tight, the fork would not slide smoothly. Fox forks for example, even mention the slop in the manual as it is more that what most people think is aceptable. Fox says that the slop is not there when the fork is actually being used (ridden) as the lubrication oil fills the gap in the bushing fit...not sure I buy that..but....

h
Has this slop just appeared? Can you notice it when riding? Is it truely different right to left side. How old is the fork (how much riding time)? Do you have a fork of the same model to compare the movement to? Have you ever noticed oil leaking from the fork? How often do you change the oil?

Worst case scenario you need new bushings (~$40) and while you are in there, replace the seals as well ($40), and oil ($10) . Fairly easy stuff to do your self if your are mechanical.
 

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carpe mañana
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7,308 Posts
amorphous said:
could be...where does one score an exploded diagram?

å
It very much sounds like your upper bushing needs replacement. There are 2 inside on each side of the sliders/lowers, one right at the top and one lower. This seems consistent with your description since when you compress the fork enough you make contact with the lower bushing and the play is gone. I just scanned Marzocchi's manual for your fork (http://www.marzocchi.com/admin/down...o=usa-mtb&Campo=ManualeInglese&IDOggetto=8369) and no exploaded diagrams. Changing bushings isn't really a do it yourself job as you need special tools which cost more than the service fee from Marzocchi. You may want to look into scoring some slightly used lowers off someone if you're on a tight budget.

_MK
 

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MK_ said:
... Changing bushings isn't really a do it yourself job as you need special tools which cost more than the service fee from Marzocchi. You may want to look into scoring some slightly used lowers off someone if you're on a tight budget.
_MK
While this is mostly true with the lower bushings, the upper ones can be removed quite easily. Worst case, just pry them out with a screw driver (they will be ruined, but they are being replaced, so...). New one can be placed with a socket...essentially the same action as seal replacement.

The 'difficulty' is all proportional to yoru mechanical tendancies....

but as has been said, Marz support for home (or shop) mechanics is as poor as possible. They used to have a DVD rom that was avalable to shops (and consumers if you were lucky) that showed how to work on their forks. I have not seen these avalable to shops since 2002 or 2003..but they were out there for your fork year...someone might have access to one and show you...but as I said not too dificult.

as far as the 'correct' tool prices....Marz is a TOTAL rip off for their tools. For example, they sell a 12mm socket that fits the foot (bottom) nut for $40.
 

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mucho aggro
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209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
davep said:
Keep in mind..there should be some movement between the upper and lowers. If they were to fit tight, the fork would not slide smoothly. Fox forks for example, even mention the slop in the manual as it is more that what most people think is aceptable. Fox says that the slop is not there when the fork is actually being used (ridden) as the lubrication oil fills the gap in the bushing fit...not sure I buy that..but....
good point - i should find a fork the same or similar to base this off! Although - it DOES seem excessive....

Has this slop just appeared?

bought it used - just about 2 weeks back.

Can you notice it when riding?

yeah, just enough to bother me and I know that it's there, not HORRID

Is it truely different right to left side?

YES - i can isolate it (with the the brake off) to JUST the right side

How old is the fork (how much riding time)?

From what I understand - not much riding time on the bike - it sure LOOKS like new

Do you have a fork of the same model to compare the movement to? Have you ever noticed oil leaking from the fork? How often do you change the oil?

See above - i know not the maintaince of the fork - but know it's low hours

Worst case scenario you need new bushings (~$40) and while you are in there, replace the seals as well ($40), and oil ($10) . Fairly easy stuff to do your self if your are mechanical.
Right on - it seems do-able...i've rebuilt and locked the rear of my truck so, I think I could handle this!....just need....instructions!

å
 

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mucho aggro
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209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
davep said:
as far as the 'correct' tool prices....Marz is a TOTAL rip off for their tools. For example, they sell a 12mm socket that fits the foot (bottom) nut for $40.
ouch! a friend of mine said he had a ground down socket that I could borrow that he's rebuilt his marz's w/ - maybe have him around when i pop this open...

My theory is that I'll be able to keep riding this until I get bushings, correct? can't ruin what's already mess'd anyway....right?

åaron
 

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Just another FOC'er
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I've got 2 friends with 05 Z1's and they both have some slop like you're referring to, although I'm not sure which side. My 04 Z150 on the other hand has none. Always made me wonder if tolerances got a little slack for a while there.

I doubt it'll do any damage to use it that way. My friends forks don't seem to be getting worse, but they irritate me because I'm not used to the slight knocking.
 

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mucho aggro
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209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
.Danno. said:
I've got 2 friends with 05 Z1's and they both have some slop like you're referring to, although I'm not sure which side. My 04 Z150 on the other hand has none. Always made me wonder if tolerances got a little slack for a while there.

I doubt it'll do any damage to use it that way. My friends forks don't seem to be getting worse, but they irritate me because I'm not used to the slight knocking.
right on...if you could help a brother out and ask - hell - check it yerself! I can feel mine if i grab the lower and the stanchion on the right side and sorta go opposite ways with it...
:eekster:

å
 

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well marz used to offer the best manuals ever but now they stoped (probably from people with no tech skill trying to do their own work then fudging the fork and asking marz why). As far as there tools well they have the cheapest bushing removal and press tool in the industry RS cost almost as much as a damn fork so I don't know why your complaining.

anyway any play there has to be the bushings.
 

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Loser
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Web tutorials for LBS techs

I recently had some work done on one of my Marz forks. I tried doing the work myself and ended up with a fork that didn't move. So I brought it to my LBS.

The shop tech was confident he could do the work when I dropped it off. I talked to him the next day and he was completely confused about how to do the work. He called Marz and they gave him a URL, username and password to view a web tutorial/video on line. He said the video was great and the work was completed perfectly, my fork was awesome when it came back.

So all we need is some unscrupulous LBS tech to post the info and we can all view it :D

John
 

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Actually, I thought it was me taking the fork apart and screwed up the cartridge (did not open the cartridge, tho), but I found in the 66SL set up thread that many other people have the same problems, so I guess it wasn't my fault.
 

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trail "cleaner"
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1,382 Posts
common on '05 Z1's and AM1's

Yep, your problem is common on '05 Z1's and All mountain ones. I've got two AM1's with this exact issue. Right lower has play when locking front brake and rocking bike back and forth. For some reason, Marzocchi seems to have spec'd a loose upper bushing. I sent both back in for warranty but neither one got new bushings :madmax: , So..... I'm just riding them as it doesn't appear to affect performance. My '06 Z1 light is perfect with no play whatsoever.
 
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