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Originally posted by Ban, .. now I’m thinking about upgrading someway my fork either with an evol chamber or directly with a 36grio2 reduced to 140mm[/QUOTE]

Excuse my ignorance, but what would the benefits be from buying the 150mm 36 Grip2s and reducing them to 140mm?[/QUOTE]

The bike geo is made for 130/140 fork. 150mm would potentially throw the balance off between front/rear...raise the BB and slacken the head angle. The rear is what, 115mm travel?

However, nothing to stop you from trying...and go with what works for you.


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The bike geo is made for 130/140 fork. 150mm would potentially throw the balance off between front/rear...raise the BB and slacken the head angle. The rear is what, 115mm travel?

However, nothing to stop you from trying...and go with what works for you.

OK lets see if I have all that... I can buy a new 150mm fork and reduce it to 140mm or I can save time and money by upgrading the damper from a grip2 34-36 fork on my existing fox 34?
 

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The bike geo is made for 130/140 fork. 150mm would potentially throw the balance off between front/rear...raise the BB and slacken the head angle. The rear is what, 115mm travel?

However, nothing to stop you from trying...and go with what works for you.

OK lets see if I have all that... I can buy a new 150mm fork and reduce it to 140mm or I can save time and money by upgrading the damper from a grip2 34-36 fork on my existing fox 34?
In a nutshell...yes.

The fox 34 is not going to be nearly as stiff as the 36.
But, you can get similar dampener with the grip2 and it will undoubtedly be lighter. ~1/2lb maybe...not sure on the weight delta between 34 vs. 36. I’m sure someone else will chime in.

If you go based on the marketing...34 is trail, while 36 is classified as enduro.

Not sure how much ‘better’ the grip2 is over the fit4, it offers more options to dial it in, but unsure if the cost is justified.


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I ran a 36 and tried both 140mm and 150mm air shafts and settled on 140mm. If the STA was steeper I'd have stuck with 150mm.

The 36 will add a bit more weight up front, but you get used to it real quick. The improved steering/stiffness and damping (even if you get the RC2) is well worth it.

My advice - Get a F36, keep the F34 around. When/if the time comes to move on from 4.5 you can always swap the original fork and use the F36 on your next trail bike. With the Fox 38 being introduced seems like the 36 will become the standard trail fork. Even the new Rockshox SID race fork has 35mm stanchions now.
 

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I was just looking into upgrading the entire group set but sure is pricey, is there a cheaper way to improve on my shifting to make it more crisp and responsive?
Is this Yeti a 170 or 175mm?
 

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I was just looking into upgrading the entire group set but sure is pricey, is there a cheaper way to improve on my shifting to make it more crisp and responsive?
Make sure it’s setup correctly, high/low, b-tension adjustment, correct chain length and indexed properly.

Bent derailuer hangers and worn chain/cassette can also cause for poor shifting.


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I’ve run 150, 140, and 130 in front on mine and prefer 130. That’s partly handling. Partly that my my Fox 34 feels stiffer at 130. And partly that I have a big bike for big trails and mostly take the 4.5 on zippy/flowy ones.

On rear tires, be careful. There isn’t much room back there.


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Here are my key features on my sb45c it's lunchride inspired...

Pike @ 140mm with Vorsprung Luftkappe installed. Why? 35 mm stanchions v 34 for the same weight and less than a 36.

Monarch debonair plus - piggyback shock for added capacity for DH and my weight (#215 no gear). Vorsprung Tractive tune...best airshock I've had.

30mm internal rims 2.5wt DHF/2.4 dhr2/2.3aggreasor/2.4dissector rears

Here is the full build list so you can get an idea...


Custom XL frame build..
Invisiframe
Chris King turq headset
Renthal apex stem 50mm
yeti 780mm 31.8 bar
Ergon grips
Ergon saddle
150mm fox transfer
Wolftooth remote
140mm Pike with Vorsprung Luftkappe
Rockshock Debonair plus with Vorsprung Tractive custom tune
170mm XO1 bb30 carbon cranks
Enduro bearings bb30 bottom bracket
XT 11sp 10-46 cassette
XT chain
XTR shifter
XTR M9020 Trail brakes
203/180 ice tech 6 bolt rotors
Yeti Turq derailleur hanger
Dt Swiss xm481 30mm rims from sb55c
Maxxis 2.5 DHF exo max Terra/2.3 Double Down aggressor rear
Full custom designed Stoked decal kit -fork, shock,downtube, inner and outer crank arms


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I’ve run 150, 140, and 130 in front on mine and prefer 130. That’s partly handling. Partly that my my Fox 34 feels stiffer at 130. And partly that I have a big bike for big trails and mostly take the 4.5 on zippy/flowy ones.

On rear tires, be careful. There isn’t much room back there.


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Agreed, there are other bikes for other purposes. Thanks for sharing!
 

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@ Dragoner, Sweet ride Dragoner, I've been hearing that about the monarch debonair plus with Vorsprung Tractive custom tune. So does a shop need to do the Vorsprung Tractive Tune custom etune or does it come via options?
Is it a safe assumption that you've had the DPX2s on your bike before these?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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DPS vs DPX2

Hello to the learned brains here!! I have the stock DPS shock on my bike but have the chance to pick up a cheap DPX2! Other than one's a DPS and one's a DPX2 (and the benefits such as improved architecture, Kashima coating etc.), I'm not sure what all the mysterious letters mean. Could someone help?

The DPS is: P-S, 3 pos Evol LV, 7.5 x 2.0, 0.6 spacer, DCL, DRM, CML

The DPX2 is: F-S, 3 pos Evol LV, 7.5 x 2.0, 0.2 spacer, CM, DRM, Rezi A F F

So what do the differences of:
  • 0.6 spacer vs. 0.2 spacer
  • DCL vs CM
  • CML vs Rezi A F F

..... actually mean?

Thank you.
 

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Copied From another user “Iggs”

https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/fox-custom-tune-codes-1075842.html

I have this info saved

Fox Tune Code info

https://www.cogentindustries.co.za/d...k-information/

In the above picture we can see the ID being C372. Once you have this code you can head over to the FOX website and enter the information on this page: https://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike



The page will list information regarding the specific code, the above shock gives us:


2017, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, 3pos-Adj Evol SV, FOX, AM, 7.875, 2.0, CL, RM, Climb F, Orange Logo

Fantastic but what does this all mean? Let’s break down the info, some of it more obvious than others:

2017: Year of manufacture
FLOAT DPS: Model
F-S: Factory Series
K: Kashima Coating
3pos-Adj Evol SV: 3 Postion Adjuster, Evolution air chamber with Standard Volume/Eyelet
FOX: Manufacturer
AM: After Market i.e. not OEM/Stock with a bike
7.875: Eye to eye length in inches
2.0: Stroke length in inches
CL: Compression Light
RM: Rebound Medium
Climb F: Climb Mode Firm Lock Out
Orange Logo: Decal Color
Now that we know what the codes mean let’s explore some of them a little further.

F-S: Factory Series
Other options could include E-S – Evolution Series, P-S – Performance Series. This is the spec of your shock model and they each have different features such as more refined tuning on the high-end models and Kashima coating as listed above on the Factory Series.

3pos-Adj Evol SV: 3 Position Adjuster, Evolution air chamber with Standard Volume/Eyelet
Lever actuated Open, Medium, Firm modes. Open mode adjust tuning range (1, 2, 3) on the Factory Series as above.
Other options are Remote actuated Open, Medium, Firm modes or iRD electronic activation.

Evolution air chamber is an optional air sleeve upgrade that improves responsiveness and sensitivity.

SV refers to the air chamber size and eyelet size. Other configurations could be LV – Large or XV – Extra Large. This is important when upgrading and builds as the shock might not fit in your frame and cause issues under compression. For more information on this visit this page on the FOX website.

The last three codes we are covering can get very detailed and deserves a post of their own which we will cover at some stage. Herewith a short explanation of each.

CL: Compression Light
This refers to the level of compression damping of the shock so “L” is light compression. You will need to consider your type of riding as well as frame leverage ratios and take this into consideration. Other options are M – Medium, F – Firm.

RM: Rebound Medium
This refers to the level of rebound of the shock so “M” is medium rebound. You will need to consider your type of riding as well as frame leverage ratios and take this into consideration. Other options are L – Light, F – Firm.

Climb F: Climb Mode Firm
When you are in your firm mode on the adjustment lever or lock out as it is also known this will give you a firm feel with the least amount of pedal-bob. Other options are L – Light, M – Medium.

Shock tunes are set from the factory for the manufacturers frame and leverage ratios to cover as many bases as possible. The settings are predetermined to allow for lighter riders and heavier riders to get a good base setting that would let them enjoy riding. The range is set to cover a wide range of riders. If you get to the point where you feel you need fine control over a certain aspect of your suspension, it’s generally accepted you know what you’re missing from the basic setup. Then you get into custom tuning.

One way of finding the right match for your bike or frame is to get the original shock spec and tune id and looking at something that matches up with that.

Suspensions are all different and can get quite technical and there is a lot more detailed information that we can go into when it comes to some of the above parts of the code but we will leave that for future articles.


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Re-release SB4.5? SB115....

SB4.5.jpg

Hi guys, got a bit excited with the SB115 launch as it seems more or less a SB4.5 with a bottle cage! here is my 4.5:

I use it more or less for rougher XC rides to complement my Enduro rig.

Size S
RS Reba 130mm
RS Monarch XX shock (with lockout)
KS LEV 125mm dropper
FSA 740mm SLK handlebar, FSA SLK 90mm stem
SRAM Guide Ultimate brakes (trickstuff pads), 203mm Hope rotors
Wheels ZTR Crest MK3, Hope Pro4 hubs
Schwalbe Racing Ralph and Ray 2.25
Shimano XT 12 speed, SunRace cassette, KMC Chain
Race Face Next Sl G4 crank with RF spindle power meter
Cruel components 34T Oval Chainring
Crank Brothers Eggbeater 2
 

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For the individuals that upgraded the rear shock to Fox DPX2, did you run the standard off the shelf tune? Or did you get a custom tune from Fox or other?


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yes I did....If I remember correctly, the dpx2 I bought had medium both compression and rebound, more damping than the stock dps shock...quite happy with the dpx2 so far....
 

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yes I did....If I remember correctly, the dpx2 I bought had medium both compression and rebound, more damping than the stock dps shock...quite happy with the dpx2 so far....
What was the tune of the original Float DPS you had? XC or Trail tune?

Based on what I’ve been able to dig up, the XC tune has the standard volume EVOL can and medium compression/rebound.

The trail DPS shock tune was Large EVOL can with light compression and medium rebound.

DPX2 default tune is medium compression/rebound.


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For the individuals that upgraded the rear shock to Fox DPX2, did you run the standard off the shelf tune? Or did you get a custom tune from Fox or other?


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I have loved my Vorsprung Tractive tuned Monarch debonoair plus...if found used plus the cost of the tune..imho would outperform a stock Dpx2 at less or same cost.


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