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Recommended brake upgrade

Hello gang,
I recently purchased an SB140 C2 build with Guide R brakes. I'm just a novice and love the bike, but the brakes seem a bit lack-luster at best... What would brake upgrade would you all recommend? Ride mostly flow/tech trails here in the PNW.
Thank you!
 

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You may want to make sure they have a good bleed and play with the bite point point first, but the Guide R are at the lower end of SRAM's offering. Here's a good article on their different products: https://off.road.cc/content/buying/...e-disc-brakes-level-t-tlm-ultimate-guide-r-rs

There are of course more brakes than just SRAM, but that is a good start.

Hello gang,
I recently purchased an SB140 C2 build with Guide R brakes. I'm just a novice and love the bike, but the brakes seem a bit lack-luster at best... What would brake upgrade would you all recommend? Ride mostly flow/tech trails here in the PNW.
Thank you!
 

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Sounds good. I'll schedule a brake bleed. I'm pretty good with most of the mechanicals, but I'll leave the bleed job to the pros.
Thank you!
 

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Sounds good. I'll schedule a brake bleed. I'm pretty good with most of the mechanicals, but I'll leave the bleed job to the pros.
Thank you!
You can try that and hopefully it will fix your problem, but instead i would replace them with XT 4 pistons or Magura MT5/MT7.
 

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Anyone here running a bash/guide? I have RF turbine cranks that I swapped over for my build and an MRP bash/guide combo. Guide centered over the chain, I have about 1mm of clearance at the closest point with a 32t ring. I was wondering if another guide would be better like a OneUp.

There are other options like different cranks, but I prefer these since they are allow and I can get them in red. Larger ring would also give more clearance, but it's nice to have the 32 around here and going to a larger ring would mean buying a different bash anyway.
 

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Anyone here running a bash/guide? I have RF turbine cranks that I swapped over for my build and an MRP bash/guide combo. Guide centered over the chain, I have about 1mm of clearance at the closest point with a 32t ring. I was wondering if another guide would be better like a OneUp.

There are other options like different cranks, but I prefer these since they are allow and I can get them in red. Larger ring would also give more clearance, but it's nice to have the 32 around here and going to a larger ring would mean buying a different bash anyway.
Yep, I added the OneUp bash guard, with their chain guide in turquoise.


Works great! Gives me a peace of mind, when tackling janky descents.
 

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So, I now have 10-11 rides on the 140. It took some time to get my position dialed, but I'm very happy with the bike as a successor to the SB5. My SB5 was probably my favorite bike for a long time. I sold it after deciding to move to bikes with a longer reach which was the right decision, but I always missed that something special that the SB5 had. The SB140 is not the same, but it's definitely an evolution. You give up some nimbleness for more capability, but for me I think it's worth it. It climbs tech almost as well, but descends better. There are faster bikes out there, sure, but I prioritize fun over speed and it's got that in spades while still going fast. Great trail bike.
 

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Ok....let's talk sizing:

With the new frames, I've heard many folks chime in on both sides of the coin...."in this new frame, I can ride a medium, in the past I had to go large." "I had to size up due to the new frame design." To me, the new frames are longer, and feel "effectively" bigger than the previous frames (if you were to compare "like" bikes, which is also up for debate....SB5/SB140; SB6/SB165, etc), except for the really long seat tubes on the previous frames. I realize that some like a playful feel, while others like the stability, etc. To confuse things a little, now on the website, there is more overlap in the sizes. XL used to be 6'3" and up, while now, it is 6'1" and above, even though the frames seem to be bigger. Is this an indication of the flexibility the sizing offers? The new lower seat tubes? Etc.

Just wanting to gather ideas, thoughts.
I'm 6'0". After what became a painful deliberation over what size to get I went for the large SB140. I'm only a couple of decent rides in, but already I'm regretting not sizing down to the medium.

I had test rides on both sizes and my first impression was the medium felt more nimble and better balanced, but I was concerned that once I got used to new geometry i'd feel too cramped on the Medium and put my trust in the Yeti size guide - which has me almost in the middle of the large size range.

I'm struggling with the length (wheelbase) of the Large - the front wheel feels just too far out in front for me. That length makes riding a much more demanding effort to get the front/rear balance right to unweight the front end when required. The 48" wheelbase feels anything but 'playful'. You have to think further ahead and plan earlier to unweight the front end - it doesn't want to pop up with a slight weight shift, like i'm used on my previous bike.

Maybe i'll get used to it, and with a few more rides learn to trust the balance point better, but being able to confidently manual it when required feels more challenging when that front end is so far out.

I am seriously considering contacting Yeti to try and buy a medium front triangle, because right now if feels like an expensive mistake.

Anyone else at 6'0" decided a Medium was better than a large???
 

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Looking at getting a new bike. I am looking at the 2021 pivot switchblade and sb140. Any disadvantages with going with the smaller wheel size?
 

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Disadvantage would be rollover and the smaller wheels tend to be slower due to that. You get more agility and likely better cornering to make up for it.

If you want to go fast as possible, then 27 is not the right choice. I have both wheel size bikes and I tend to grab the 140 as my favorite bike to just ride. The 29 is faster in the chunk. Just matters what you value more. If I had to keep only one bike, it would be the 140.
 

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Hey everyone, I ended up picking up my first Yeti in the fall last year. I'm definitely enjoying the poppiness of the SB140, coming from a SC Hightower that felt like a tank.
I'm not a fan of this 2.6 Rekon in the rear, curious as to what you guys are running since I keep thinking the bike could be a bit more nimble going with a narrower tire like a 2.4 or switching both out for a 2.5/2.4 combination.
 

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Hey everyone, I ended up picking up my first Yeti in the fall last year. I'm definitely enjoying the poppiness of the SB140, coming from a SC Hightower that felt like a tank.
I'm not a fan of this 2.6 Rekon in the rear, curious as to what you guys are running since I keep thinking the bike could be a bit more nimble going with a narrower tire like a 2.4 or switching both out for a 2.5/2.4 combination.
Maxxis Dissector works well in the ice and mud of Northern England so far. Grips and sheds pretty well and ticks the bit more nimble box for me
 

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Maxxis Dissector works well in the ice and mud of Northern England so far. Grips and sheds pretty well and ticks the bit more nimble box for me
Running a Dissector as well on the East Coast of the US, EXO+ is holding up to the rocks so far when I sliced through some Rekoms. 2.6 though, so can't speak to different sizes.
 

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Yep, I added the OneUp bash guard, with their chain guide in turquoise.


Works great! Gives me a peace of mind, when tackling janky descents.
BTW, I've discovered on a big logover that the downtube is pretty vulnerable with its extended forward section. No frame damage but the foam rubber protector got peeled up and scraped.
 

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Hey everyone, I ended up picking up my first Yeti in the fall last year. I'm definitely enjoying the poppiness of the SB140, coming from a SC Hightower that felt like a tank.
I'm not a fan of this 2.6 Rekon in the rear, curious as to what you guys are running since I keep thinking the bike could be a bit more nimble going with a narrower tire like a 2.4 or switching both out for a 2.5/2.4 combination.
I run a 2.5 aggressor in the rear. Rolls well, has good traction, corners well and is very predictable. Only place it doesn’t do well is mud.
 
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