Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner

101 - 120 of 157 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
That’s very interesting. I run about 230psi at 180lbs and get around 33% sag. Am definitely using full travel but no harsh bottom out. I occasionally back off the LSC to fully open to make it more supple over low speed chunk.
Yeah, that seems to be consistent with what I've experienced. I haven't actually felt a harsh bottom out on the small drops and features. And I'm getting pretty much full travel. Also, lowering that LSC, increases the supple-ness. I've countered with a bit more rebound dampening as the air spring compresses easier with lower LSC, and wants pop back into place, tossing the rear end up a bit more than I'd like.

Just anticipating hitting the bottom as the features get larger.... :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
another SB140

finally the frame arrived and i built the bike on the weekend.
Man the invisiframe fits perfect but it's really a lot of work.
The downtube protektor is filled with slapper tape.
The frame itsself is, with 7.3 lbs, heavier than i expectet, the final weight with 210mm dropper post, Highroller 2,5" on 33mm Syntace Ci wheels plus Pedals and water bottle mount is 12,97 kg.

1'st ride was fine so far :)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
F0E26452-D6B6-45A4-87F6-992B90EF6F8C.jpeg

My new rig...
Sb140 with CaneCreek Helm Coil 140mm travel
Mullet 27.5/29 Raceface wheels
XTR 11sp
XTR brakes
OneUp Dropper and cockpit.

Can’t wait to get it out and rip it apart in the AES series this year!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
invisiframe is a good idea and the kit fits really perfect.
I would be curious to see this color in nature, but i think it is even more beautiful than on pictures (like the turquise one)!
Is it a Turq frame in M?
Yes it's a medium Turq with axle and seat collar.

The color is more orange in nature. But it's more reddish vs the orange 150.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
The possibility of going mullet with this bike really interests me...so...how does it ride?



How does it ride?
I absolutely love bombing the descents, on my local trails ( a mix of fast flow & roots, with occasional small lips & log ledges, plus a few rocky patches), on this thing.
It really boosts my confidence, given how robust the frame is (compared to the Mach 4 and Enduro), especially in the rear triangle.

It's more "Enduro" than my Specialized Enduro Comp(2018-2019).

The SB140:
- is .2 degrees steeper on the seat tube angle
- has the same head tube angle but has more trail due to the reduced offset fork
- has 11.2mm longer wheelbase
- has 16mm longer reach
- has same length chain stays

But I don't feel "over-biked" on-trails since it:
- has 10mm less travel, front
- has 30mm less travel, rear


Given that steeper seat tube angle it pedals just as good as, if not better than, my Pivot Mach 4, going up our trails' sharp switch backs and punchy climbs.

You can really feel the bike propel forward when you're out of the saddle sprinting.


But still...
I haven't hit anything really big (5ft+) drops or hit nearby bike parks, yet...
..but I'm sooo looking forward to it, next spring!!

I do wonder if the reduced travel will nudge it into the "under-biked" category, for park use(?). Kind of doubt it though. Putting Code brakes and a 200mm front rotor on it, definitely gives it stopping power.


Ultimately, the SB140 really feels "natural" and toss-able. There's no sense of the bike resisting inputs. It just goes, pretty much where ever I point it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
How does it ride?
I absolutely love bombing the descents, on my local trails, on this thing.
It really boosts my confidence, given how robust the frame is (compared to the Mach 4 and Enduro), especially in the rear triangle.

It's more "Enduro" than my Specialized Enduro Comp(2018-2019).

The SB140:
- is .2 degrees steeper on the seat tube angle
- has the same head tube angle but has more trail due to the reduced offset fork
- has 11.2mm longer wheelbase
- has 16mm longer reach
- has same length chain stays

But I don't feel "over-biked" since it:
- has 10mm less travel, front
- has 30mm less travel, rear


Given that steeper seat tube angle it pedals just as good as, if not better than, my Pivot Mach 4, going up our trails' sharp switch backs and punchy climbs.

You can really feel the bike propel forward when you're out of the saddle sprinting.


But still...
I haven't hit anything really big (5ft+) drops or hit nearby bike parks, yet...
..but I'm sooo looking forward to it, next spring!!


Ultimately, the SB140 really feels "natural" and toss-able. There's no sense of the bike resisting inputs. It just goes, pretty much where ever I point it.
That's high praise! Thanks for the insight. Did you ride a regular SB140 before you went mullet?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
I’ll finally get to ride mine next weekend in Ponca And Leatherwood, so Ill be able to post up my review.

I typically rideXC on a SB100, so this should be quite a bit different for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
Yeti SB140 Build...first 100 miles...

Am really liking my #sb140. Built it up to replace my Pivot Mach 5.5. I’ve been riding a SB100 for a year and a half and really prefer to switch infinity over the dw link. I have a 100 miles on it over the past week or so and it climbs and descends very well. The SI platform is very stable without any perceived bob during climbs and flats, the bike feels almost bottomless on the descents.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Ok....let's talk sizing:

With the new frames, I've heard many folks chime in on both sides of the coin...."in this new frame, I can ride a medium, in the past I had to go large." "I had to size up due to the new frame design." To me, the new frames are longer, and feel "effectively" bigger than the previous frames (if you were to compare "like" bikes, which is also up for debate....SB5/SB140; SB6/SB165, etc), except for the really long seat tubes on the previous frames. I realize that some like a playful feel, while others like the stability, etc. To confuse things a little, now on the website, there is more overlap in the sizes. XL used to be 6'3" and up, while now, it is 6'1" and above, even though the frames seem to be bigger. Is this an indication of the flexibility the sizing offers? The new lower seat tubes? Etc.

Just wanting to gather ideas, thoughts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Ok....let's talk sizing:

With the new frames, I've heard many folks chime in on both sides of the coin...."in this new frame, I can ride a medium, in the past I had to go large." "I had to size up due to the new frame design." To me, the new frames are longer, and feel "effectively" bigger than the previous frames (if you were to compare "like" bikes, which is also up for debate....SB5/SB140; SB6/SB165, etc), except for the really long seat tubes on the previous frames. I realize that some like a playful feel, while others like the stability, etc. To confuse things a little, now on the website, there is more overlap in the sizes. XL used to be 6'3" and up, while now, it is 6'1" and above, even though the frames seem to be bigger. Is this an indication of the flexibility the sizing offers? The new lower seat tubes? Etc.

Just wanting to gather ideas, thoughts.
My interpretation on manufacturers’ sizing guidelines is that the “new” geometry has grown reach more than ETT - therefore shorter folks can better fit a longer (reach) bike if they so desire and are looking for a shred sled as opposed to a more “trail” bike feel. Just my $0.02.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
My interpretation on manufacturers’ sizing guidelines is that the “new” geometry has grown reach more than ETT - therefore shorter folks can better fit a longer (reach) bike if they so desire and are looking for a shred sled as opposed to a more “trail” bike feel. Just my $0.02.
I run medium on my SB165. I've never felt like it was too small...I'm 5'10" with a wingspan slightly shorter than my height. I didn't try out a large, but I've often been curious as to what I might be "missing" had I gone large. Also, would the purpose of the bike make a difference? IOW, if I like medium on my SB165, is it necessarily that medium would be the way to go on a SB140, or even SB100? Just tossing nuggets out there...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Sorry if this has already been asked but I'm brand new to the thread, and didn't want to start a new one.

In looking at the SB140, there are 5 "levels" as I am learning. T1 T2 T3, C1 and C2.

Do you recommend the Turq over the Carbon? Or is it just a waste of money? The component packages are different too.

Assuming I narrow down a choice to a C1 vs C2, where would you land comparing the components between the 2? Is the C2 worth it over the C1?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,602 Posts
Sorry if this has already been asked but I'm brand new to the thread, and didn't want to start a new one.

In looking at the SB140, there are 5 "levels" as I am learning. T1 T2 T3, C1 and C2.

Do you recommend the Turq over the Carbon? Or is it just a waste of money? The component packages are different too.

Assuming I narrow down a choice to a C1 vs C2, where would you land comparing the components between the 2? Is the C2 worth it over the C1?
T3 builds are best value due to Shimano drivetrain inmho.
T vs C builds are also impacted by suspension components...

Turq T3 builds are my choice ifaking a full bike purchase..

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
 
101 - 120 of 157 Posts
Top