[blueranger]

Congrats on the new ride, NOTB is such a great shop. I used to visit Mike and Doug often when I worked in Sorrento Valley. Assume they built your wheels too?

Personally I’d sell the 4.5 and get something further differentiated from the 130. That’s what I did- I’ve got a dedicated XC bike now to complement the 130.

Yep, bought the 4.5 from them as well! Mike built me this wheelset. Can’t say enough good things about this shop, love supporting the LBS.

Thinking I’ll wait a year or so until the covid mtb movement decides they don’t actually like to ride then scoop something up on the cheap. My buddy had a sniper and just got a Ripmo....haven’t seen him back on his sniper since. Time will tell so much new to learn with this bike.

Would love to stay with yeti and get a sb100 but they had too many problems. Maybe a transition spur? Who knows, every ride on the LR gets more and more rewarding in the ups and downs, won’t need a 2nd bike for a while.

 

[motard5]

Any thoughts on Shimano XT BR-8120s vs. SRAM G2 RSC or Ultimate? I’ve had good luck with M8000 brakes, and bad luck with older SRAM, but people seem to swear by the new SRAM stuff.

 

[Dagonger]

Love my m8120..I have 2 sets

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[blueranger]

Can’t say enough good things about the Hayes Dominion A4. Lever pull is unbelievable light (Guide R is HEAVY), eye popping stopping power, fantastic set.

 

[distortion10]

Any thoughts on Shimano XT BR-8120s vs. SRAM G2 RSC or Ultimate? I’ve had good luck with M8000 brakes, and bad luck with older SRAM, but people seem to swear by the new SRAM stuff.

Shimano over Sram all day every day. I agree that Sram has a better lever feel but it’s very marginal. For me Shimano performs longer before require a service.


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[Hannah500]

Hello! I'd love a little help on figuring out how to improve my new bike.

I just picked up a 2021 C2 build. Love it but bike weight is quickly getting out of control (its 34.5 lbs right now). I swapped the Damper to Grip 2 and brakes to SRAM code RSC (both swapped from a 2019 alloy transition sentinel that I just sold). The rest is stock. How did it get so heavy and what is the easiest (and least $$$) way to lighten it up? I definitely feel that weight on the climbs.

The C2 build was the only one in stock. Maybe I should have waited it out and gone with a higher spec but according to the manufacturer's page the C2 is supposed to be sub 31lbs stock. I'd love any advice you might have.

 

[traildozer]

Hello! I'd love a little help on figuring out how to improve my new bike.

I just picked up a 2021 C2 build. Love it but bike weight is quickly getting out of control (its 34.5 lbs right now). I swapped the Damper to Grip 2 and brakes to SRAM code RSC (both swapped from a 2019 alloy transition sentinel that I just sold). The rest is stock. How did it get so heavy and what is the easiest (and least $$$) way to lighten it up? I definitely feel that weight on the climbs.

The C2 build was the only one in stock. Maybe I should have waited it out and gone with a higher spec but according to the manufacturer's page the C2 is supposed to be sub 31lbs stock. I'd love any advice you might have.

The quoted weight is, I think, for a Medium frame bike with no pedals and is based on the listed spec which may not exactly match what your LBS provided. Things like tyre choice can make a big difference.
If you're feeling the weight on the climbs you could go lighter on your wheelset? Not cheap but could generate the biggest difference to climbing characteristics and also reducing the unsprung mass. While your wheels are still pretty new and undamaged you may find them easier to sell too.
Good luck!

 

[Hannah500]

The quoted weight is, I think, for a Medium frame bike with no pedals and is based on the listed spec which may not exactly match what your LBS provided. Things like tyre choice can make a big difference.
If you're feeling the weight on the climbs you could go lighter on your wheelset? Not cheap but could generate the biggest difference to climbing characteristics and also reducing the unsprung mass. While your wheels are still pretty new and undamaged you may find them easier to sell too.
Good luck!

Thanks for the advice! Yeah it's a size medium but good to know about the quoted weights. I just found out my boyfriend swapped the back tire to a double down maxis DHR. While I'm flattered he thinks I shred hard enough to need a rear tire with a downhill casing, I'm not sure the weight penalty is worth it for me at this point so I'll probably swap that back to the stock one today.

A new wheelset is a great idea. Any advice on which one? Especially with good $/gram ratios? I'm coming from more of an xc background and don't know as much about the trail/enduro world and don't want to get something too light that will easily break halfway down Mt. Wilson. There are so many options I'm thinking of making an excel spreadsheet lol. I'd love any recommendations you might have.

Other than the wheels, is it just a matter of slowly upgrading the components over time? Seems like no one upgrade really changes the weight by more than 100g but I guess if all your parts are 100g lighter it starts to add up. Honestly I'll probably just get a new wheelset and see how it feels before going full weight weenie. I know it's not an xc bike but 34.5 lbs just seems like a lot for a carbon 130/150 bike. Thanks again for all your help and for any other advice you might have!

 

[DETarch]

Hello! I'd love a little help on figuring out how to improve my new bike.

I just picked up a 2021 C2 build. Love it but bike weight is quickly getting out of control (its 34.5 lbs right now). I swapped the Damper to Grip 2 and brakes to SRAM code RSC (both swapped from a 2019 alloy transition sentinel that I just sold). The rest is stock. How did it get so heavy and what is the easiest (and least $$$) way to lighten it up? I definitely feel that weight on the climbs.

The C2 build was the only one in stock. Maybe I should have waited it out and gone with a higher spec but according to the manufacturer's page the C2 is supposed to be sub 31lbs stock. I'd love any advice you might have.

Agreed with traildozer, I think wheels and tires are the biggest opportunity to drop weight on the C2 build. I have a carbon BTLOS wheelset on DT 240 hubs that is sub-1600g that made a noticeable difference. And depending on the terrain you ride, you may be able to get away with slightly lighter tires. I wouldn't compromise much on rubber though, personally.

There are lots of places for small incremental losses (e.g. swap GX cassette for XX1, swap handlebar for carbon, etc.), but the cost per gram is going to be pretty high.

I was preoccupied for a bit with dropping weight on my 130, and it's an expensive pursuit that can easily veer into performance compromises if taken too far!

 

[DNW]

Thanks for the advice! Yeah it's a size medium but good to know about the quoted weights. I just found out my boyfriend swapped the back tire to a double down maxis DHR. While I'm flattered he thinks I shred hard enough to need a rear tire with a downhill casing, I'm not sure the weight penalty is worth it for me at this point so I'll probably swap that back to the stock one today.

A new wheelset is a great idea. Any advice on which one? Especially with good $/gram ratios? I'm coming from more of an xc background and don't know as much about the trail/enduro world and don't want to get something too light that will easily break halfway down Mt. Wilson. There are so many options I'm thinking of making an excel spreadsheet lol. I'd love any recommendations you might have.

Other than the wheels, is it just a matter of slowly upgrading the components over time? Seems like no one upgrade really changes the weight by more than 100g but I guess if all your parts are 100g lighter it starts to add up. Honestly I'll probably just get a new wheelset and see how it feels before going full weight weenie. I know it's not an xc bike but 34.5 lbs just seems like a lot for a carbon 130/150 bike. Thanks again for all your help and for any other advice you might have!

I am not sure you need a double down tire, that seems like an easy way to drop some weight. I have continued to use the standard 2.3 Aggressor in the back for a couple years in some jagged AZ conditions and as long as I am running the right pressure I have not blown or torn any tires. I am 200 lbs and not super graceful...

I started with a C1 build, and upgraded over time with a focus on dropping weight where I could while still not sacrificing durability. Lighter bar and stem were the first upgrades, then carbon rims (BTLOS with DT Swiss 350s), and later a XX1 cassette. It is still probably 32-33 lbs, but it rides so much better than the 10 year old 32 lb bike it replaced.

 

[pedantic]

I am not sure you need a double down tire, that seems like an easy way to drop some weight. I..... It is still probably 32-33 lbs, but it rides so much better than the 10 year old 32 lb bike it replaced.

I have a T2 130 in XL. All in (with Time ATAC pedals), I'm at 33 lbs. I live in Western CO and am running a DHF/DHR combo. My wheels are Arch MK3, Sapim CX Ray, and White Ind hubs (1730 grams, $700). My perspective is that the bike rides lighter than it is. On my bike I value the durability of a beefier tire. My wife, however, values lower rotational weight. She runs Ardents. Her tires don't frequently leave the ground.

I think I would try to lose weight by swapping out tires. As you mention, those double downs are portly. This way you're losing weight where it counts. Then, I would look for a lighter weight wheelset. My two cents.

 

[blueranger]

I had a 2.3 EXO aggressor for 2+ years, finally tire a sidewall gash but it served its purpose well. Upgrading to the DD casing could definitely be felt - much heavier noticeable power required to move it.

I HATE Ardents, just cant find the grip in SoCal terrain, 1st thing I swapped with I got my 4.5 (2.3 agressor EXO rear and 2.35 Magic Mary front).

Now running Assegai front DHR II rear (stock 130LR spec), so far so good! The rear outer knobs are already showing wear, haven't ridden the bike too much yet, will see how they hold up.

 

[traildozer]

Thanks for the advice! Yeah it's a size medium but good to know about the quoted weights. I just found out my boyfriend swapped the back tire to a double down maxis DHR. While I'm flattered he thinks I shred hard enough to need a rear tire with a downhill casing, I'm not sure the weight penalty is worth it for me at this point so I'll probably swap that back to the stock one today.

A new wheelset is a great idea. Any advice on which one? Especially with good $/gram ratios? I'm coming from more of an xc background and don't know as much about the trail/enduro world and don't want to get something too light that will easily break halfway down Mt. Wilson. There are so many options I'm thinking of making an excel spreadsheet lol. I'd love any recommendations you might have.

Other than the wheels, is it just a matter of slowly upgrading the components over time? Seems like no one upgrade really changes the weight by more than 100g but I guess if all your parts are 100g lighter it starts to add up. Honestly I'll probably just get a new wheelset and see how it feels before going full weight weenie. I know it's not an xc bike but 34.5 lbs just seems like a lot for a carbon 130/150 bike. Thanks again for all your help and for any other advice you might have!

I can't recommend a wheelset but Stan's flow rims can be pretty light for alloy, as well as cheap and durable plus they seat really well. Can't recommend the Neo hubs though, and getting wheels built up becomes quite expensive compared to off the shelf.

I'd keep the tyres you've got for a while (agreed, swap the DD casing off) so you can explore tyre pressures and grip, it's a much more important thing than rolling resistance if you want to get the 130 into its operating window. I agree with Pedantic's post, in that you can save a lot of weight in the tyres (also that the bike rides lighter than it is). It sounds like you'll probably be fine with EXO or EXO+ should you upgrade to another set of Maxxis down the line.

I would recommend doing a bit of research and compiling a list of components you want to swap in. Have that list handy and keep an eye on the market place/buy-swap-sell pages as well as the web-retailer sale times. Spacing out the upgrades will allow you to sell some parts in between, learn a bit more about your bike, reset your weight expectations, and see if your mindset gets swayed slightly more towards grip and durability. Honestly, as you start to get more engaged with the bike and begin to hook up the descents you might find yourself conserving on the climbs so you've got energy left for the downhill - that was how it went for me and now I just about crawl up the climbs

Disposable parts like rear mech can be left until they get broken but cassette could be upgraded and there are/were a bunch of people selling new/near new top spec 51t cassettes (so they can get the 52t which you probably have but may not need). Bars are a tricky one because if you chase weight saving alone you could end up with excessive vibration at speed, and that's never fun - there are plenty of carbon options that should feel good but don't cut them down to your XC length in one go, give yourself a chance to try slightly wider for a bit.

 

[motard5]

Yeti quotes moto dry weight style, so no sealant and probably strips too. Example the website states 30.70lbs for the TLR T1. So you’re saying my size L with sealant and light pedals is 2lbs over the quoted weight at 32.7lbs?

 

[Radical_53]

Why shouldn’t that be accurate? Apparently you never put a bike on a scale before.
Variances in tire weights, pedals and size specific stuff (doesn’t large get a longer dropper post than medium?) add up easily.


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[traildozer]

Who knows? It probably is dry weight but that normally just means reservoirs would be empty, there's not really an equivalent for bikes. I wouldn't be surprised if they don't just add component and frame weights.
How much sealant you use is up to you. Conservatively that probably accounts for 150g of weight if you have 75ml of sealant in each tyre. Pedals, ~350g. Maybe another 80g of grease, loctite, gripper paste, and chain lube. 100g of frame protector (probably) - that's well over a pound already before you account for the larger frame. If you read some of the review pages you'll see the testers weigh their bikes, and they're not far off quoted numbers and I doubt they give out test bikes with no grease or sealant.

Conversely, my Large TLR I built from the frame up is surprisingly close to the quoted 30.7lbs at 33lbs as it now has an Ohlins TTX22M coil with a 600lb spring, Hope Tech 3 brakes running post mount adapters for massive 2mm thick Galfer rotors, Secus on the fork, Alloy rims, Hope hubs and EXO+ tyres, heavy duty stem, 200mm dropper, longer crank arms, fidlock bottle mount, Rockguardz over the original protector, and chunky double lock-on Oury Grips. That seems insane to me that I've only added 1kg.

I honestly don't think that much about bike weight. I did just go and weigh mine out of curiosity, though!