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Currently have a Ripley v2 and looking for a 130. I’m 6’ 1” and ride an xl ripley (ibis seems to run small). I’m thinking a large sb130?


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I’m 6’1” on a large SB130 with a 50mm stem and 800mm bars. We’re definitely a height that could go either way between large and XL.

For what it’s worth, I’ve had XL Santa Cruz bikes, and would also go XL with Ibis, but prefer the slightly more manageable wheelbase on the large SB130. And it’s easier to stay over the front wheel on the large.


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The SB130 is a long bike and a bike you definitely want to have in control. You do not want the front tire wondering around, I would suggest to try a L and XL.
I could’ve gone with a medium but went for a small at a 5’6” height. No regrets!
Thank you!


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I’m 6’1” on a large SB130 with a 50mm stem and 800mm bars. We’re definitely a height that could go either way between large and XL.

For what it’s worth, I’ve had XL Santa Cruz bikes, and would also go XL with Ibis, but prefer the slightly more manageable wheelbase on the large SB130. And it’s easier to stay over the front wheel on the large.


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Thank you for that info! Seems like we are very similar. There is no way I could go large on an ibis, and I’m leaning towards large SB 230 based on numbers. LBS is all sold out and not sure when they are getting any in so no demos at this time.

On another note, I’m a bigger guy (250) and 48 years old...so I’m not going to be hitting jump lines and enduro type trails...most of my riding here in Virginia is wooded single track with rocks and roots and a lot of man made flow trails. I have been doing some reading and seems a LR version with the increased shock stroke might make more sense for me? Easier to play with spacers and psi etc? I have a shock wiz and used it on my ibis to get me dialed in and am fairly competent with shock tuning (at least enough to be dangerous I guess!). I don’t think I need the extra fork travel as my 130 on my Ripley has been fine for me, but who knows?


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I have been doing some reading and seems a LR version with the increased shock stroke might make more sense for me? Easier to play with spacers and psi etc? I have a shock wiz and used it on my ibis to get me dialed in and am fairly competent with shock tuning (at least enough to be dangerous I guess!). I don’t think I need the extra fork travel as my 130 on my Ripley has been fine for me, but who knows?


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I just converted my rear to shock to LR by snipping the limiter/spacer, and I’m very happy with the change. I moved up to a grey (0.4) spacer and tweaked my air pressure to create a more supple initial stroke that’s still supportive further into the travel. I kept my fork at 150mm and there has been no effect on climbing. I do wish I had 170mm cranks vs. 175mm to minimize pedal strikes, but that’s a separate issue (and mostly due to my sloppy technique, ha).


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I just converted my rear to shock to LR by snipping the spacer, and I’m very happy with the change. I moved up to a grey (0.4) spacer and tweaked my air pressure to create a more supple initial stroke that’s still supportive further into the travel. I kept my fork at 150mm and there has been no affect on climbing. I do wish I had 170mm cranks vs. 175mm to minimize pedal strikes, but that’s a separate issue (and mostly due to my sloppy technique, ha).


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Agreed. There's no reason NOT to get full stroke out of the shock, even if you stick with a 150mm fork. Unladen, geometry remains the same. And if you like the feel of the 52.5mm stroke, you can always run less sag. When I LRed my shock, I ran 33% sag and it felt a lot better. However, I highly suggest getting a volume spacer to minimize bottom outs. My 2020 DPX2 came with none installed.

And to be completely honest here, the DPX2 is a good shock... on other bikes. The SB130 really shines with a shock that has a large negative chamber like the Float X2 or Ohlins TTX2 Air. I have the Ohlins. I haven't tried a coil yet, but I'm very happy with my Ohlins M.2 coil front and TTX2 Air and Cascade Link. I know the coil guys love their setup. Removing the spacer in the DPX2 is a free improvement and should be done ASAP. It should hold you over until you decide on a better shock to unlock the SB130's true potential.
 

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It’s an RRP press. The red pieces are actually extractors, specific to the bearing size. Then there is a corresponding (blue) piece for pressing in the new bearing.

Really nice tool, and I can buy kits to fit bearings on any new bikes down the road too.


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Merry Christmas!

Would you happen to know the sizes of RRP extractor and presses needed to do this job?


Also, I was on the trail the other day and read into another person on the same bike who mentioned something about adding a .1 MM shim or two to the bike and I am not sure wear he meant. Does anyone know anything about this?

Cheers!
 

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Merry Christmas!

Would you happen to know the sizes of RRP extractor and presses needed to do this job?


Also, I was on the trail the other day and read into another person on the same bike who mentioned something about adding a .1 MM shim or two to the bike and I am not sure wear he meant. Does anyone know anything about this?

Cheers!
All of the parts I used (with links) are in post 3140 in this thread. The RRP adapter kits needed are #2 and #11, in addition to the RRP bearing tool itself.

Here’s an outline of the spacers mentioned (this guy uses spacers on an SB150, but same issue on the SB130):

I did insert two 0.1mm shims/spacers when I serviced my bearings, FWIW.


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All of the parts I used (with links) are in post 3140 in this thread. The RRP adapter kits needed are #2 and #11, in addition to the RRP bearing tool itself.

Here’s an outline of the spacers mentioned (this guy uses spacers on an SB150, but same issue on the SB130):

I did insert two 0.1mm shims/spacers when I serviced my bearings, FWIW.


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Thanks man!
 

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Has anyone else had an issue develop on their XT drivetrain where it can be indexed perfectly, until you ride it? So indexing in the work stand is spot on then indexing under load is way off and no amount of barrel adjustment will allow smooth shifting through the full cassette. The bike has become unrideable as I can't hold a gear and I don't want to damage the cassette by pressing on.

I'm on an SB130LR, riding this drivetrain for 550km and not really had any issues, cassette looks great, teeth not showing much sign of wear. The only work I've done on the bike recently was a bearing replacement and SI service. The indexing has just started to creep a few rides after that. For reference the chain is pretty new and I've double checked the length is correct, the clutch is working perfectly, sag is set correctly (accounting for the holiday weight), B screw and limit screws are spot on, and the cable moves freely within the housing. I don't have a tool for checking hanger alignment but it was fine before and the bike hasn't taken any knocks so I'm doubtful that is the cause. I'm running the 8100, 30t crankset with 52mm chainline, as I thought others were on here so please correct me if that could be an issue.

I'm wondering if the cable outer could be pinching as the front and rear triangles move? Thinking something could have changed when I was accessing the SI unit for service. Planning to pull the cable out and check that next but it looks and moves fine in the stand.

Does anybody have any ideas for me before I go crying to my LBS? I hate not being able to figure stuff out.

Also, we don't seem to be able to search within the thread anymore. That was a really useful feature for this monster thread.
 

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Has anyone else had an issue develop on their XT drivetrain where it can be indexed perfectly, until you ride it? So indexing in the work stand is spot on then indexing under load is way off and no amount of barrel adjustment will allow smooth shifting through the full cassette. The bike has become unrideable as I can't hold a gear and I don't want to damage the cassette by pressing on.

I'm on an SB130LR, riding this drivetrain for 550km and not really had any issues, cassette looks great, teeth not showing much sign of wear. The only work I've done on the bike recently was a bearing replacement and SI service. The indexing has just started to creep a few rides after that. For reference the chain is pretty new and I've double checked the length is correct, the clutch is working perfectly, sag is set correctly (accounting for the holiday weight), B screw and limit screws are spot on, and the cable moves freely within the housing. I don't have a tool for checking hanger alignment but it was fine before and the bike hasn't taken any knocks so I'm doubtful that is the cause. I'm running the 8100, 30t crankset with 52mm chainline, as I thought others were on here so please correct me if that could be an issue.

I'm wondering if the cable outer could be pinching as the front and rear triangles move? Thinking something could have changed when I was accessing the SI unit for service. Planning to pull the cable out and check that next but it looks and moves fine in the stand.

Does anybody have any ideas for me before I go crying to my LBS? I hate not being able to figure stuff out.

Also, we don't seem to be able to search within the thread anymore. That was a really useful feature for this monster thread.
I have over 1000 miles of riding on the 12S XT and then XTR and I’ve noticed that cable routing and the cleanliness of your inner and outer cable are huge factors in shifting quality. More so than the old Shimano 11S and anything SRAM makes.

Back then, I used the Shimano XTR inner and out cables but they were out of stock for a while. Worked great, but the inner cable wears quickly and starts to get fuzzy. I use Jagwire Pro now since it’s way easier to get. But I coated the inner cable with slideway oil(Fox Gold can also work). I also used the sealed extended end caps to keep the oil in and the dirt out. I’ve been riding on these cables for 300 miles now and I’ve had no shift issues. But you gotta be careful to not get dirt in while coating the inner cable with oil.
 

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I have over 1000 miles of riding on the 12S XT and then XTR and I’ve noticed that cable routing and the cleanliness of your inner and outer cable are huge factors in shifting quality. More so than the old Shimano 11S and anything SRAM makes.

Back then, I used the Shimano XTR inner and out cables but they were out of stock for a while. Worked great, but the inner cable wears quickly and starts to get fuzzy. I use Jagwire Pro now since it’s way easier to get. But I coated the inner cable with slideway oil(Fox Gold can also work). I also used the sealed extended end caps to keep the oil in and the dirt out. I’ve been riding on these cables for 300 miles now and I’ve had no shift issues. But you gotta be careful to not get dirt in while coating the inner cable with oil.
Thanks for the response! I'll fully inspect the cable and housing and see if either needs replacing or oiling. Hopefully that is the cause of the issues (y)
 

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Has anyone run a 42mm offset fork on the 130? It will be set up LR version.

Also, what are recommendations on the best fork for enduro/trail right now? I'm a lighter rider and have been considering the Fox 36 2021 and Rockshox Lyric rc2. I've also tried my friends Cane Creek Helm II and thought it was magically plush compared to any other fork but I have not had a chance to try the new Fox or Lyric.
 

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Has anyone run a 42mm offset fork on the 130? It will be set up LR version.

Also, what are recommendations on the best fork for enduro/trail right now? I'm a lighter rider and have been considering the Fox 36 2021 and Rockshox Lyric rc2. I've also tried my friends Cane Creek Helm II and thought it was magically plush compared to any other fork but I have not had a chance to try the new Fox or Lyric.
I have had the Helm MKII on my 130LR since November, so not much riding on it and still dialing it, but it is already the best feeling fork I have run. I ran the DVO Diamond before, which was already a great fork. I have not tried a 2021 Fox 36 nor a Lyric, but I can say that the Helm feels perfect right out of the box.
 

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I have had the Helm MKII on my 130LR since November, so not much riding on it and still dialing it, but it is already the best feeling fork I have run. I ran the DVO Diamond before, which was already a great fork. I have not tried a 2021 Fox 36 nor a Lyric, but I can say that the Helm feels perfect right out of the box.
I have been running a DVO diamond actually and am going to sell it. I've had issues with it and am on my second one which I still can't get to feel good for me. DVO is amazing with customer service so I can't speak poorly of them at all, but at this stage I'm just tired and bored and want to move on to something else. The Helm is without a doubt the plushest fork I've ever been on.
 

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Has anyone run a 42mm offset fork on the 130? It will be set up LR version.

Also, what are recommendations on the best fork for enduro/trail right now? I'm a lighter rider and have been considering the Fox 36 2021 and Rockshox Lyric rc2. I've also tried my friends Cane Creek Helm II and thought it was magically plush compared to any other fork but I have not had a chance to try the new Fox or Lyric.
If I were getting a new fork, I’d try a Mezzer, for sure. Lots of good info in the thread here about it.

I will say that my 36 Grip2 is not particularly plush, and would probably be even less so for a lighter rider (I’m ~190 lbs ready to ride). It’s plenty supportive and good through chunk and big hits, but I continue to be a bit disappointed with its small bump performance.


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Has anyone done this to their frame? It happened to me few weeks back, and today i got my front triangle replacement
Today after 6 weeks waiting

1910737
 
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