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Well, that did not last long...from Yeti Facebook posting
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Wow. That sucks.
Well, that did not last long...from Yeti Facebook posting
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Those little carbon SI mounting tabs have to take an awful lot of stress. I wonder if the new threaded design puts more stress on them, making failures more likely.Well, that did not last long...from Yeti Facebook posting
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You think they make thin margins on the frame only?Yeti makes more money selling a complete bike than a frame only. It's their way to keep their profits up.
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Any news on this? I have the kit uninstalled as of nowThose little carbon SI mounting tabs have to take an awful lot of stress. I wonder if the new threaded design puts more stress on them, making failures more likely.
Update:Maluco's post prompted me to go have a close look at my frame and this is what I found. Does this count as a crack?
View attachment 1358155
I was thinking about this more. In the original design of the SI, there were 2 thru bolts. When they switched to 4 separate bolts, that probably increased the stress on the mounting tabs since the bolts can now flex independently. And in the latest design, this stress is probably increased yet again, since the threaded screws tie the SI more tightly to the rear triangle.Those little carbon SI mounting tabs have to take an awful lot of stress. I wonder if the new threaded design puts more stress on them, making failures more likely.
Nice! Good thing you checked it out.Update:
Our good friends from YETI is sending me a new front triangle :thumbsup:
Could you? YesCould you potentially swap out the Switch Infinity and the linkage and turn your SB100 to a SB115?
I'm looking to move up in tire size to gain a little more stability. I've searched these forums without finding a great answer.
I'm running to the stock 2.3 Minion/Aggressor combo on the DT Swiss XM 1501 Spine AL 25MM. Would I even notice going to 2.4s? There aren't a lot of options at 2.5. Would 2.6 be pushing the wheel width? Would the Fox 34 Float SC FiT4 be ok with wider tires? Thanks!
I run mine with 2.4 Dissector front and 2.4 Rekon rear on 30 mm internal width rims and it's added some stability and control to the bike compared to Ardent Race 2.35/2.2 on 27 mm rims that I had before. I don't think you can fit a 2.6 in the rear.I'm looking to move up in tire size to gain a little more stability. I've searched these forums without finding a great answer.
I'm running to the stock 2.3 Minion/Aggressor combo on the DT Swiss XM 1501 Spine AL 25MM. Would I even notice going to 2.4s? There aren't a lot of options at 2.5. Would 2.6 be pushing the wheel width? Would the Fox 34 Float SC FiT4 be ok with wider tires? Thanks!
Do you have the original (V1) SI bolts, the first attempt at a fix (V2), the next attempt with nylock (V3), or the latest attempt with threaded bolts (V4)?Based on the previous posts about the SI linkage tabs cracking I thought I would check mine and found this....
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Unless you are a carbon specialist or engineer, your eye doesn’t mean much.Do you have the original (V1) SI bolts, the first attempt at a fix (V2), the next attempt with nylock (V3), or the latest attempt with threaded bolts (V4)?
The V4 bolts shouldn't loosen up like the V1-V3 bolts. However, that means more stress on the carbon tabs that hold the SI. To my eye, those tabs look pretty small for all the stress they have to take (vertical and lateral).
I know it is not the original one piece V1 bolt, or the latest threaded V4 bolt version. How do you tell the difference between V2 and V3?Do you have the original (V1) SI bolts, the first attempt at a fix (V2), the next attempt with nylock (V3), or the latest attempt with threaded bolts (V4)?
If it has the nylon patch on the thread its V3. With V2 you had to add locktite to the thread.I know it is not the original one piece V1 bolt, or the latest threaded V4 bolt version. How do you tell the difference between V2 and V3?