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Here is yet another upgrade for my Marwi (new style) Nightpro bike light.
First off, thanks to all of those on the forum here whom I have gleaned information from and have provided input.
This is my parts list:
Marwi Nightpro housing (new bullet style) and switch
Aluminum insert to mount LED mounted 20mm star mcpcb heat sink (shown in the 3rd image down - message me if you are interested in 1). This acts as a mount and heat sink to disperse the led emitter heat to the outer Marwi housing.
Cree-XML LED mounted to a 20mm star mcpcb - u2-1c-tint-p-75
8xamc7135-28a selectable mode driver (jumper'd to a 2 mode low/high setting & I un-soldered the spring off the board)
Fraen FRC-N1-MCE-0R reflector
34.8mm glass lens
The reflector is actually made for a Cree MCE led but the XML U2 led is supposedly brighter. It is smaller in size (5mm x 5mm) so it actually fits the opening at the bottom of the reflector no problem.
Here is an image of my purchased parts and my original Marwi new/bullet style light (disassembled and shown without the lens retention ring).
Assembly procedure below:
Solder led leads to the driver:
Apply thermal grease/paste to both the insert and the rear of the mcpcb star (I used Arctic Silver Ceramique paste):
Insert led leads from rear of insert, screw star in place using blue loctite (you will have to countersink the star under the flat head screws so that the screws get as low as possible so as not to interfere with the reflector), and solder leads to appropriate contacts. I like having the star screwed in place so I can replace/upgrade the led later on if need be. Some choose to glue it in place but I'm not sure how difficult it would be to break that bond.
View of rear of insert/mcpcb/led assy with battery leads soldered in place (this is a good time if you want to solder/jumper your driver for a specific mode - see following image courtesy of El34)(Mine is jumpered for low/high mode - see the 4th star to the right is soldered/jumpered to the outer ring which is Battery -):
This driver image is similar to the driver I used (I removed the center spring on my driver as you may have noticed):
Apply thermal paste/grease to the outside of the insert and the inside of the light housing. Slide the insert assembly into the housing, set the reflector in place, followed by the o-ring, the lens, and then the lens cap. Prior to assembly, you will need to drill out the hole in the light housing with a 1/8" drill bit (it currently is a tapped hole), and lightly sand the inside of the housing to remove the burrs in this area. BTW - The o-ring is not the original. You will need to make a stop to your local hardware store in the plumbing department for the next size up o-ring with a thicker cross section. The final turn on the lens cap compresses the o-ring and tightens the lens and reflector in place.
When assembled, the insert assembly presses up against the rear of the reflector (the reflector is a high temp plastic so there is not an issue of shorting the led out) giving the best possible throw this combination can provide. This can be a little tricky getting the reflector centered on the led but it is doable. Also, the rear of the reflector will need to be filed down to remove the little ridges/standoffs (where arrow is pointing to in image). Depending on how well your leads are soldered to the MCPCB contacts, you may need to file some clearances on the reflector as well (circled areas).
Ready to solder the driver leads to the switch leads. I solder the leads and then heat shrink the connection.
Here is the light fully assembled. The screw that holds the switch cap in place is used to also keep the insert in place. Some choose to press fit this insert but I like to take things apart easily if I need to. Plus, the machining tolerances do not need to be as fussy for a slip fit as they do for a press fit (too tight of a press fit and you could split your housing, in theory of course).
First off, thanks to all of those on the forum here whom I have gleaned information from and have provided input.
This is my parts list:
Marwi Nightpro housing (new bullet style) and switch
Aluminum insert to mount LED mounted 20mm star mcpcb heat sink (shown in the 3rd image down - message me if you are interested in 1). This acts as a mount and heat sink to disperse the led emitter heat to the outer Marwi housing.
Cree-XML LED mounted to a 20mm star mcpcb - u2-1c-tint-p-75
8xamc7135-28a selectable mode driver (jumper'd to a 2 mode low/high setting & I un-soldered the spring off the board)
Fraen FRC-N1-MCE-0R reflector
34.8mm glass lens
The reflector is actually made for a Cree MCE led but the XML U2 led is supposedly brighter. It is smaller in size (5mm x 5mm) so it actually fits the opening at the bottom of the reflector no problem.
Here is an image of my purchased parts and my original Marwi new/bullet style light (disassembled and shown without the lens retention ring).
Assembly procedure below:
Solder led leads to the driver:
Apply thermal grease/paste to both the insert and the rear of the mcpcb star (I used Arctic Silver Ceramique paste):
Insert led leads from rear of insert, screw star in place using blue loctite (you will have to countersink the star under the flat head screws so that the screws get as low as possible so as not to interfere with the reflector), and solder leads to appropriate contacts. I like having the star screwed in place so I can replace/upgrade the led later on if need be. Some choose to glue it in place but I'm not sure how difficult it would be to break that bond.
View of rear of insert/mcpcb/led assy with battery leads soldered in place (this is a good time if you want to solder/jumper your driver for a specific mode - see following image courtesy of El34)(Mine is jumpered for low/high mode - see the 4th star to the right is soldered/jumpered to the outer ring which is Battery -):
This driver image is similar to the driver I used (I removed the center spring on my driver as you may have noticed):

Apply thermal paste/grease to the outside of the insert and the inside of the light housing. Slide the insert assembly into the housing, set the reflector in place, followed by the o-ring, the lens, and then the lens cap. Prior to assembly, you will need to drill out the hole in the light housing with a 1/8" drill bit (it currently is a tapped hole), and lightly sand the inside of the housing to remove the burrs in this area. BTW - The o-ring is not the original. You will need to make a stop to your local hardware store in the plumbing department for the next size up o-ring with a thicker cross section. The final turn on the lens cap compresses the o-ring and tightens the lens and reflector in place.
When assembled, the insert assembly presses up against the rear of the reflector (the reflector is a high temp plastic so there is not an issue of shorting the led out) giving the best possible throw this combination can provide. This can be a little tricky getting the reflector centered on the led but it is doable. Also, the rear of the reflector will need to be filed down to remove the little ridges/standoffs (where arrow is pointing to in image). Depending on how well your leads are soldered to the MCPCB contacts, you may need to file some clearances on the reflector as well (circled areas).

Ready to solder the driver leads to the switch leads. I solder the leads and then heat shrink the connection.
Here is the light fully assembled. The screw that holds the switch cap in place is used to also keep the insert in place. Some choose to press fit this insert but I like to take things apart easily if I need to. Plus, the machining tolerances do not need to be as fussy for a slip fit as they do for a press fit (too tight of a press fit and you could split your housing, in theory of course).
