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robust, yet smooth
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had my old school yak towers forever, but when I upgraded to the current towers, I had a lot of trouble getting them to tighten down correctly. And, of course, I've now broken the dumb plastic (plastic!!!) cam/cover on one of the towers.

Any recorse other than buying a new one? Any user suggestions other than "don't do that again"?

gratzi,

-capt pearl
 

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I meant to do that
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Call Yakima. I had one do that during installation. They determined it was faulty and sent me a new one.
 
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I did the same thing installing my latest Yak rack.I didn't really have any recourse though since I bought them 2nd hand on ebay. As already stated contact Yakima and they should warrenty it. I was surprised at the design though. All you need to do is pry it up with a screwdriver etc and break the plastic tab the locks "lock" into and those fancy SKS locks are useless:rolleyes: My old school towers had metal locking parts that seemed much more secure.
 

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robust, yet smooth
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
wheelerfreak said:
I did the same thing installing my latest Yak rack.I didn't really have any recourse though since I bought them 2nd hand on ebay. As already stated contact Yakima and they should warrenty it. I was surprised at the design though. All you need to do is pry it up with a screwdriver etc and break the plastic tab the locks "lock" into and those fancy SKS locks are useless:rolleyes: My old school towers had metal locking parts that seemed much more secure.
yeah, I'm not exactly a Happy Customer at this moment - I have no complaints about the old design.

-capt pearl
 

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How old is "old school?" I have used the gutter mount towers for 20 years with no issues.

They are still being make so parts are available.
 
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shiggy said:
How old is "old school?" I have used the gutter mount towers for 20 years with no issues.

They are still being make so parts are available.
I don't know when they changed the design. My first Yak rack that I bought in 1992 had a different style towers. The gutter mounts are different in appearance and function than the old towers and the newer Q towers. I wanted to keep the old style towers when I bought a new car, but they don't make the clips that are needed. Take a look at the new Q towers and you'll see that the plastic "flap" is designed as a sort of cam that the locks lock into. Problem is that if you use too much force ( or a thief does the same) and the plastic simply breaks off.
 

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Start slow and taper off
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Yakima should warranty them no problem.

One suggestion: if you're not doing this already, ALWAYS install the rack with two people. Get the rack in position, then at the same time push down the flaps.

A big problem with tightness is that if you install the rack yourself, by flipping down one side, and then the other, you're applying unever pressure. Annoying, yes, but the rack will usually stay tightened.
 

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Start slow and taper off
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shiggy said:
How old is "old school?" I have used the gutter mount towers for 20 years with no issues.
They are still being make so parts are available.
The gutter mounts are still made because Yakima sells pieces to attach to fiberglass roofs/camper tops/etc and the gutter mounts fit those. Otherwise, based on the amount of cars being made in the last 10 years that have gutter mounts, they would have been discontinued.
 

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wheelerfreak said:
I don't know when they changed the design. My first Yak rack that I bought in 1992 had a different style towers. The gutter mounts are different in appearance and function than the old towers and the newer Q towers. I wanted to keep the old style towers when I bought a new car, but they don't make the clips that are needed. Take a look at the new Q towers and you'll see that the plastic "flap" is designed as a sort of cam that the locks lock into. Problem is that if you use too much force ( or a thief does the same) and the plastic simply breaks off.
The gutter mount in the pic looks exactly like the gutter mount towers I bought in 1985.
 

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robust, yet smooth
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yup

wheelerfreak said:
I don't know when they changed the design. My first Yak rack that I bought in 1992 had a different style towers. The gutter mounts are different in appearance and function than the old towers and the newer Q towers. I wanted to keep the old style towers when I bought a new car, but they don't make the clips that are needed. Take a look at the new Q towers and you'll see that the plastic "flap" is designed as a sort of cam that the locks lock into. Problem is that if you use too much force ( or a thief does the same) and the plastic simply breaks off.
I had the SST towers on a Volvo 240 and then a Jeep Cherokee. When I tried to move the rock to my Honda Accord, they no longer made the clips for the old SST towers, and I didn't have any luck with NOS or ebay, so I bit the bullet and upgraded to the new Q towers. The old ones were a snap to install. I had more than an hour in the initial instal of the new ones. So now I need to harass yakima for a replacement.

On a side note, my bars are too long, my wife is tired of smacking her head (I of course, would never admit to smacking my head, b/c then she'd "I told you so"). So, to protect her lovely head, and my helmet hanger, what's the best method.

Also, suggestions for best price on a fairing (although yak outta give me one for my woes and troubles).

neveride - thanks for the suggestion that I get someone to help me intall it. I must admit that I'm still not fond of the plastic cam cover or the floppy pads - i think I lost one in the process, dammit!

thanks all,

-capt pearl
 

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I meant to do that
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capt pearl said:
On a side note, my bars are too long, my wife is tired of smacking her head (I of course, would never admit to smacking my head, b/c then she'd "I told you so"). So, to protect her lovely head, and my helmet hanger, what's the best method.
Shorter crossbars? Take a sawsall, hacksaw or similar and cut off the excess. Install new end caps.

capt pearl said:
Also, suggestions for best price on a fairing (although yak outta give me one for my woes and troubles).
I like rackoutfitters.com: http://www.rackoutfitters.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=479. Although I think the fairing is overpriced, I'm sure it does provide better aerodynamics (gas mileage). It does reduce noise (windnoise = aerodynamic drag).

capt pearl said:
neveride - thanks for the suggestion that I get someone to help me intall it. I must admit that I'm still not fond of the plastic cam cover or the floppy pads - i think I lost one in the process, dammit!
I've had Yakima replace these for me as well for free. Although, I did recently order a new set from here: http://www.rackoutfitters.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1150 at $3.60 apiece. Mine basically disintegrated after a few years. Make sure you order the right one. You're talking about the Tower Pads, right?
 

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robust, yet smooth
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
sethm said:
Shorter crossbars? Take a sawsall, hacksaw or similar and cut off the excess. Install new end caps.

I like rackoutfitters.com: http://www.rackoutfitters.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=479. Although I think the fairing is overpriced, I'm sure it does provide better aerodynamics (gas mileage). It does reduce noise (windnoise = aerodynamic drag).

I've had Yakima replace these for me as well for free. Although, I did recently order a new set from here: http://www.rackoutfitters.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1150 at $3.60 apiece. Mine basically disintegrated after a few years. Make sure you order the right one. You're talking about the Tower Pads, right?
fairing - I can really feel the drag w/ the bars on (which is why they were off, which is why I had to put them on, which is when the tower cam-thingie broke), so I'm hoping the fairing will fix it.

Tower pads? yes. the translucent white floppy things.

thx for the suggestions.

-capt pearl
 

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capt pearl said:
On a side note, my bars are too long, my wife is tired of smacking her head (I of course, would never admit to smacking my head, b/c then she'd "I told you so"). So, to protect her lovely head, and my helmet hanger, what's the best method.

Eh, I hate that. Just get a pipe cutter for 5-10 bucks and shorten them. Just takes a few minutes. Hint - just cut the correct amount off of one side and adjust. I used one to take the rusty ends off of some used crossbars. The plastic coating may get slightly torn.

I wish they'd make reusable bar end plugs.
 
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