Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After following Highdells amazing guide on repacking bearings I have run into a bit of a problem.:confused:
I seem to have completed all the steps shown there and have the wheel running nice and smooth. Then I put it back in the frame and tighten up the quick release and now the disc rotor is tight against the calliper mount and the wheel cant turn. Its almost like it's too far over to the non drive side now. If I have the non drive side cone in a position on the axle where the wheel can turn (when in the frame) then there's a load of up and down, side to side play in the axle. The bearings are new and the hub itself aint that old (so no real wear) and was working well on this bike before I got to grips with it.
I have about 5 threads of the axle sticking out on the drive side but from looking at the guide pics I end up with more threads showing on the non drive side. Its almost like the hub is now thinner.:eek:
And I have installed everything back on that came off:madman:
Essentially the wheel runs real smooth but when put in the frame and the quick release is tightened the disk is tight against the caliper mount.
Any idea what I might have done wrong?Is there anyway that anything could have moved thus allowing the loss of 5mm

I would much appreciate as much help/ideas that anyone can give

Cheers in advance:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
428 Posts
Not sure about your specific hub, but when assembled, the rear axle is usually not symmetric. There is usually more spacers on the non-drive side of the axle than the drive side. Perhaps you installed the axle (really the cone nut, spacers, and lock nut) the wrong way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just a quick update....
I ended up bringing my rear wheel into my LBS and explaining the spacing issues I was having. I picked it up the next day and sure enough all was correct again. Anyway it looks like they had to put in a 8mm spacer on the non drive side of the axle (which I must have lost but really never knew was there). :madman:
Excellent!
Well nothings that straight forward is it?
After the first ride on it the cones are loose again. At least the spacing is correct and all I need to do is tighten them up again....I hope :thumbsup:
 

·
transmitter~receiver
Joined
·
9,334 Posts
a few friends of mine have had issues with the DS cone & lock nut loosening on shimano hubs. since there's no reason for the DS cone and lock nut to move, i solved it by degreasing the axle and putting locktite on it where the DS cone and lock nut sit. i also added locktite between the faces of the cone and lock nut. problem solved/
The newer XT hubs seem to not want to hold their adjustment as well. I'm not sure if it's a DS loosening thing or not, but if you find the DS cone or locknut loose, locktite that *****! make sure you have it spaced right first. :arf:
i use blue locktite so it's removable if you really need to for some reason (can't think of one).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update 2.....

Ok things are not as good as I first thought.
When I noticed side to side play in my rear wheel the ride after having it serviced and re-spaced as mentioned in an earlier post in this thread I thought it was just the cone and lock nut come loose again :madman:
Unfortunately when I looked on both sides the lock nuts and cones were tight :eekster: The side to side play was coming from the normally tightly connected dust cover on the non drive side cone. It seems now that the cone can slide through the dust cover this allows the cone to move inwards thereby freeing up the distance that was protruding through and causing the loosening effect!!!!
Anybody else had this problem before?
I'm wondering if buying another cone and dust cover combination will do the trick or will this just happen again :confused:
 

·
R.I.P. DogFriend
Joined
·
6,891 Posts
Not sure if I totally understand the symptoms you're describing, but if both jam nuts are tight on the cones. . . . . . broken axle or the freehub fixing bolt is loose?

By 'dust cover', do you mean the rubber dust cover on the non-drive side or the metal piece that goes between the jam nut and the cone on the drive side?

If you take the wheel out of the bike, you'll know if the axle is broken (I have broken an axle or two).

I have seen the freehub fixing bolt (the hollow allen bolt that holds the freehub to the hub shell) come loose and when the wheel is still in the bike, you might think it was a loose cone/jam nut.

Really need to know which XT hub you have as the M775 is quite a bit different from M756. After looking at the exploded view of those, I am thinking that may possibly be the hub we're talking about here???

Here is the link to the M775 exploded view:

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t...FH/EV-FH-M775-2700A_v1_m56577569830732434.pdf

and the link to the M756 exploded view:

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t...FH/EV-FH-M756-2099C_v1_m56577569830746212.pdf

or it could be the M765 (easy to tell as it uses centerlock rotors):

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t.../FH/EV-FH-M765-2266_v1_m56577569830608937.pdf
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I thought my explanation would have that effect :D

Here's a quick Photoshop effort to show the non drive side area that might help me explain :confused:
(not the exact hub. It was the best pic I could find of the bits I wanted though)

The lock nut and cone are tight.
The axle is not broken but the dust cover which the cone protrudes through is allowing the cone to move freely through it. I'm pretty sure that they should be fixed together though (no movement at all).
Its not the axle is moving through the cone as such (as that is threaded), more that the body of the hub can now slide along/over the cone with the dust cap. (pink arrow)

Any clearer?? :eekster:
 

Attachments

·
transmitter~receiver
Joined
·
9,334 Posts
jt2 said:
I thought my explanation would have that effect :D

Here's a quick Photoshop effort to show the non drive side area that might help me explain :confused:
(not the exact hub. It was the best pic I could find of the bits I wanted though)

The lock nut and cone are tight.
The axle is not broken but the dust cover which the cone protrudes through is allowing the cone to move freely through it. I'm pretty sure that they should be fixed together though (no movement at all).
Its not the axle is moving through the cone as such (as that is threaded), more that the body of the hub can now slide along/over the cone with the dust cap. (pink arrow)

Any clearer?? :eekster:
no clearer.
if the body of the hub is sliding relative to the cone (and axle), the cone is not adjusted properly. the dust cover shouldn't have anything to do with it, as it is not firmly attached to anything.
are you sure the DS locknut and cone are not loose?
if you paid the LBS to fix it and it's loose after one ride, i'd take it back and ask them to fix it again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
I was told that it should have a little play when off the bike, but when the wheel is installed there should no longer be any side to side play.

I agree that dust cover really doesn't play into anything. Sounds like you just didn't get it tight to begin with...much like I am unable too.
 

·
R.I.P. DogFriend
Joined
·
6,891 Posts
Well it's a little clearer. . . . . .

The cones against the bearings against the bearing race should keep the axle from moving in the hub shell (aside from a very slight amount of bearing play).

That 'dust cap' in your pic is supposed to be attached to (part of) the cone, not loose from it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Exactly jeffj!!
That's the only explanation I could come to myself.
The "Dust Cap" as its called on the shimano tech doc must be attached to or part of the cone unit.
In the first pic is how it looked when back from service at LBS.
All was tight, in place and running correctly at this point.
In the next pic is how it looked after the first ride after that service.
Now there is an amount of side to side wobble because the "Dust Cover" and hub have moved/slid along the cone until it meets the lock nut.
I was able to put a flat headed screwdriver between the "Dust Cover" and the locknut and prize them back apart until the hub was all back in the position it should be (as in first pic)
 

Attachments

·
Never enough time to ride
Joined
·
1,575 Posts
From what your describing your freehub has come loose and needs to be tightened. It's gonna take a fairly large allen wrench, and require the removal of the axle again. Fairly common issue on XT hubs, if your not sure what to do with it shinano's tech docs help a lot but a shop will typically know what to do.

happy trails...

squish
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Unfortunately that's not the case squish.
The hub had just been serviced at my lbs.
I checked for movement on the hub, axle, cones or locknuts before posting.
Only thing that has moved is the hub body over the cone outwards towards the locknut on the nds.
Thanks for the thought though :thumbsup:
 

·
transmitter~receiver
Joined
·
9,334 Posts
jt2 said:
Unfortunately that's not the case squish.
The hub had just been serviced at my lbs.
I checked for movement on the hub, axle, cones or locknuts before posting.
Only thing that has moved is the hub body over the cone outwards towards the locknut on the nds.
Thanks for the thought though :thumbsup:
if the hub shell moves relative to the axle then either the axle is broken or the hub isn't adjusted properly.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top