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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought that I'd post the weight of some XT M760 cranks that I just purchased from Fett. He was using them as single speed cranks and had made very similar, machined modifications to the spindle and pedal holes that Macsi had made to reduce the Q-factor as mentioned in this thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=101076&highlight=LX+polishing , and also WOY had made in a previous thread.

Fett sold them to me because his new frame has a 73mm BB shell and the spindle is now too short for that size. I was going to go with RaceFace Deus, but I decided that I didn't want to pass this deal up. I will be polishing these XTs soon as Macsi did with his LX cranks and I'll post pics when done. Those are Extralite 2x9 (44/30t) rings with Extralite chainring bolts that I got from Dirt Boy, XT BB cups and retention bolt. The center sleeve will not be used, but one spacer is included on one of the cups.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Here's a shot of the arms with retention bolt alone. The bolt weighs 2g. The pinch bolts are the stock ones...

Edit: I guess I should call it an "adjustment" bolt rather than a "retention" bolt for the non-drive side...
 

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Hmm, interesting. I was just thinking about how i could lighten my crank area without losing the stiffness/reliability of my XT. I already run without the plastic 'retention' bolt (preloaded with QR to set tension), bb spacers and tube but the arm still only goes so far onto the axle meaning i have to have a couple of raceface dues spacers on the axle to make up the gap. I would like to get the arm that little bit further in so could you tell me what exactly was done to the axle/left arm of these to allow them to run closer?

Cheers,
Rich.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm running it with exactly what is pictured--only the one spacer on the drive side and no spacers on the non-drive side. No other spacers are needed. The axle does not go "all the way" through the non-drive side crank arm, but has enough internal thread and clamping area (for the pinch bolts) with the adjustment bolt fully tightened for it to work great. This is with the axle shortened by some 20mm...

I have no play and plenty of clearance by each crank arm for my frame due to the nature of the outboard bearing design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I realized right after taking those pics, that I really don't need the rear portions of those chainring bolts since the 30t ring has them already incorporated, so the actual weight of the working crankset is going to be a 2-3g less--not to mention what the polishing might acclomplish... Just for you super weenies out there... :p
 

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what bottle cage is that?

It looks like the ones that Quick.Step and Discovery are using... I've been curious about what they are. My Time cages haven't been all that killer, and apparently Boonen, etc, aren't very stoked with them, either. What is it?
 

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cheers, ill have to investigate mine. Though ive remembered a set of CODA duo cranks ive got somewhere that im going to dig out and measure, so that might be an alternative with added benefit of $$$ from the sale of XT ;0)

Cheers.
Rich

and thats a TACX cage if im not mistaken, nice but not that light and possibly needs special bottles?? TACX also make the best tyre lever ive ever used, not that i use em much but great help for DH tyres and Roadie clinchers.
 

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Question about this thread

If I went 2x9 44T-30T on the XT M760 integrated crank set, but did not make any other modification, could I use just one spacer on the drive side and none on the non-drive side as is being done in the above setup?

Thanks in advance.

Right now, I have two spacers on the drive side and one on the non-drive side. Each spacer ~3 mm
 
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