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CEO Product Failure
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Need some input. I am at my wits end. I have a SantaCruz Tallboy4 (XL if that matters) with SRAM X01 12sp shifter and SRAM X01 rear derailleur. Earlier this summer, the shifter failed and was replaced. A few weeks after the new shifter was installed, the shifting became enormously difficult. Shifting up the cassette (to a larger gear in back) actually wore a hole in my ride glove and flexed the shifter mount on the handlebar. Shifting up the cassette was also very slow and sometimes required pushing the shifting beyond the desired gear.

In late July, a completely new SRAM inner cable and cable housing were installed, within a week, same issue. This time, I replaced the derailleur and replaced the cable and inner wire Jagwire Elite inner wire and Pro cable housing. It shifted much better for a while. .

Some 300-400 miles later, its October and the same issue is occurring but worse. There is so much resistance to up shifting that the shifter lever feels like its about to snap. Zero rain rides, zero rides in mud, the bike gets hand washed using a 5 liter portable water sprayer.

So practically new rear der and shifter. Two sets of cables. And still shifts like cr*p. All the work has been done my local SC dealer. They are fantastic about service. However, the bike is going back in for the same issue for the 4th or 5th time.

I need suggestions. Do I need a Goat Link? Is there a better cable housing-inner wire set up to consider? Calls have been made to SRAM and SC. Unfortunately, everyone is perplexed.

TIA.

-Binge
 

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That is perplexing, especially since everything is mostly new. XO1 is generally smooth and long lasting ime.

It sounds like a gunked up cable and the fact that the shifting was much improved after you changed the cable somewhat confirms that. No explaining why it didn't last though.

I'm guessing the cassette & chain are in good shape, that would affect shifting quality but not the stiff shifting.

I vote that it has to do with the connection between the shift lever and the derailleur. So in other words the cable. No idea why the previous replacement didn't work, a properly routed cable install should go for a year or 3 minimum.
 

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Disconnect the shift cable from the derailleur and pull the cable clear. Attach a small locking pliers to the end of the shift cable so that there is resistance, but the cable can still move. Try shifting and see if the resistance is better/worse/same.

If it is better, the you know the issue is coming from the derailleur and/or cable routing to the derailleur.

If it is unchanged, then you know the issue is coming from the cable routing through the frame or the shifter itself.

If coming from above the derailleur, remove the housing/cable from the bike, reattach the locking pliers and try the shifting. If better, the issue is the routing through the bike. If unchanged, then it is coming from the cable/ shifter interface or the shifter itself.

Remove the housing, reattach the locking pliers closer to the shifter and retry.

Basically, you’re removing the variables and moving back toward the shifter one piece at a time to determine the cause of the cable drag.

Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Never trust a fart
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4,546 Posts
Disconnect the shift cable from the derailleur and pull the cable clear. Attach a small locking pliers to the end of the shift cable so that there is resistance, but the cable can still move. Try shifting and see if the resistance is better/worse/same.

If it is better, the you know the issue is coming from the derailleur and/or cable routing to the derailleur.

If it is unchanged, then you know the issue is coming from the cable routing through the frame or the shifter itself.

If coming from above the derailleur, remove the housing/cable from the bike, reattach the locking pliers and try the shifting. If better, the issue is the routing through the bike. If unchanged, then it is coming from the cable/ shifter interface or the shifter itself.

Remove the housing, reattach the locking pliers closer to the shifter and retry.

Basically, you’re removing the variables and moving back toward the shifter one piece at a time to determine the cause of the cable drag.

Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Best advice for this problem.
 

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Never trust a fart
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I'm not sure about that, the cable resistance will always be less when it's detached from the derailleur.
While true, following this procedure will narrow down to where the majority of the resistance is. Process of elimination. This is how I did it when I was working in bike shops along with several other way more experienced mechanics that I worked along side of. Therefore I'll stand by saying that this is the best advice to narrowing down his resistance issue. Especially if the OP has internally routed cables where cables can cross if the bike doesn't run full housing inside the frame.
 

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While true, following this procedure will narrow down to where the majority of the resistance is. Process of elimination. This is how I did it when I was working in bike shops along with several other way more experienced mechanics that I worked along side of. Therefore I'll stand by saying that this is the best advice to narrowing down his resistance issue. Especially if the OP has internally routed cables where cables can cross if the bike doesn't run full housing inside the frame.


Agree that it can be a helpful diagnostic tool but I'm just saying that resistance will always be less when detached from the derailleur so that doesn't eliminate the cable as the problem.

Just having a hard time imagining how a new XO1 shifter and derailleur could be contributing to the problem the op is experiencing.
 

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It sounds like the cable might be getting bound up. Maybe a kink is forming overtime where it comes out of the main tube to the chain stay? Looking at pics of Tallboy’s, it appears it comes out pretty low and then goes straight up and then bends back again to the derailleur… I’d take the cable and housing out and inspect it to be sure it’s not kinking and going in and out smoothly.
 

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shift to hardest gear

remove rear wheel

push the derailleur over to verify smooth operation

Pull the shifter cable out and lay it out straight. Post a pic of how it looks. Weird kinks etc.

as im sure you know. Your shop will be able to identify an excessive shift pressure. We all suspect the issue is cable damage that accumulates due to routing.

i routinely shift to hard gears w my knuckle by just bumping my gx shifter. Easy gears require a reasonable push.

i have thousands of km and thousands of shifts on my bike. No maintenance issues yet.
 

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Never trust a fart
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Agree that it can be a helpful diagnostic tool but I'm just saying that resistance will always be less when detached from the derailleur so that doesn't eliminate the cable as the problem.

Just having a hard time imagining how a new XO1 shifter and derailleur could be contributing to the problem the op is experiencing.
If he dissects the cable run and inspects each section, it will eliminate that section of cable until he gets all the way back to the shifter. Eliminate one problem at a time. The cable is the easiest and cheapest thing to do.
 

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CEO Product Failure
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2,403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A very weird update to share. I took the bike to the shop. The shop removed the housing and cable. The section of housing concealed within the rear swing arm was twisted like a cork screw. This bound the cable up and was creating the resistance and additional effort to shift.

No one has any idea as to how, why, or what caused this.

Any suggestions to assist in preventing this from repeating are appreciated. My thought is to seal/anchor the cable housing/frame intersections (penetrations) with silicon or some other non-permanent adhesive but need to verify if this is SantaCruz approved.
 
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