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emu26 said:
Haven't you heard Matt, it's not dust and bush fires down here at the moment, it's floods and bush fires.

Bush fires in South west WA and flooding of sort or another across 5 states. Gotta love the "lucky country" :)
yep, it's a crazy place, that's for sure. When we were in Melbourne during the King Lake bush fires (200+ dead?) people were drowning in floods and being eaten by crocodiles in Queensland. My folks are pretty relieved that we're now in safe USofA :)
 

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I've tried the LXP-RS and gives a nice beam pattern, just needed to enlarge the hole on the holder so the dome fits in, since it's XP-E optic. The light is a bit more concentrated than with the modified Boom-SS reflector. But if you want some serious throw, go for the Fraen FRC-N. With no mods it throws even better than MC-E. I've also tried the Iris wich works pretty good with no holder and projects the square pattern of the die, but it's huge even with no holder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Aluminum Square Tubing, 1" SQ {A} x 3/4" ID {B} x .125" Wall Sq. Tube , from Speedymetals.

Aluminum Rectangular Tubing, 1" {A} x 2" {B} x .125" Wall {C} Rect. Tube Speedymetals.

Aluminum Square Tubing, 3/4" SQ {A} x 5/8" ID {B} x .063" Wall {C} Sq. Tube 6063-T52 Aluminum, from Speedymetals.

Rip the ¾ inch tube length wise to give 2 halves or U channel. Then cut U channel to appropriate length to fit into light body.

In the 1 inch square tube the Regina outside edge can be sanded to remove the small lip. It will then fit into the 1 inch square tube without distorting the reflector.

The driver in both lights are the 3-mode regulated Circuit Boards from Shiningbeam.
In the Dual XML light I am using the Poormans 7135 Driver Setup, brought to our attention by rlouder via CPF. Thanks rlouder……….
So cut the outside corners of the tube at 45 degrees. Slots were also cut using table saw.
Makes for a tidy 3 mode light.




I recut the 1 inch square to have only four slots, three fins.
The originals were cut with five slots, four fins, each side and the fins came out a little too narrow on some of the housings.






 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Will build a few here and there.
Nice to have a reserve in case one of my riding buddies needs a light.
About half of the first batch has one really thin fin.:mad:
I have some Gun-Kote on order. A few coats and bake in the oven might thicken the fin up enough to keep it from breaking off. :skep:
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Same information posted to the
DIY Light Database
Update to a more step by step process.

The cut bodies will have some edge overhang so take a knife and trim/bevel the edges.


The ¾ inch slug will need to have edges rounded and some sanding to fit inside the light body. Sand and round edges enough to be able to push the slug in with a mild/moderate amount of force.


Tin the leds. Much harder to tin when star has been thermal epoxied to the slug.


Prepare driver. This is the 2800 mA, 3 mode from Shining beam. Remove spring and solder positive wire on.


Attach negative to outer gold colored ring either top or bottom. Top was done here to make attachment to switch easier.


Thermal epoxy 7135 chips to slug. Channel locks used to hold together until epoxy sets. Velcro wrapped around grips to hold driver in place.


Used dremel grinding stone to remove lip from the Regina optic.


Step drill Regina out to ¼ inch.


Use a slug to trace the front and back plate of the light on 1.2 mm polycarb and cut out with scissors.


Used 5 minute epoxy to fix Regina to led star after soldering driver wires to the star pads.


Regina, slug, and driver ready to be pushed into light body.


Light body gets thermal epoxy.


Slide slug into body.


Take front and back polycarb 1.2 mm plates. Stack both and continue pressing slug into light body.


Wires can be threaded out through switch hole and end of light can be tapped with soft faced hammer.


Remove the polycarb plates.


Leaves about 1 mm to work 5 minute clear epoxy around to seal the polycarb in place over the reflector.


Getting ready to mix.


Mixed with one toothpick. Discard that one. Use tip of clean toothpick to work epoxy around polycarb/light body junction.


Driver and switch connected.


Negative wire connected and Marine shrink tube placed over wires. * If you plan to use a bolted/screwed on mount this area behind the driver is the area the hole will need to be drilled for installation. I use Velcro or Dual Lock on my lights. *


Polycarb plate with center drilled ready for JB Weld Kwik.


Mix a little more black than grey to get darker epoxy color.


Epoxy worked into back of light body and feathered against internal body edges. Place light on flat surface and heat body and epoxy with heat gun so it self levels.


Used a little less epoxy than needed to completely fill back cavity to flush. Prefer a little droop so dried epoxy has slight recessed look to it.


Mini Tamiya connectors

Another section of Marine heat shrink tubing place on wiring and shrank with heat gun.

Use Velcro or 3M Dual lock on my light. *A mount could be drilled and screwed/bolted in before polycarb rear plate was installed.*

Lights done with both Rustoleum Fine Texture paint and Gunkote.


Light bodies cleaned with Dawn dish soap to remove oils. Then dipped in rubbing alcohol and wiped dry. Next light bodies are heated to 150 degrees F and sprayed with the paint/coating product.
Let dry for 30 minutes and then bake in oven for 1 hour at 350 degrees F.
Rustoluem Left, Gun-Kote Right.


Brass brush used to test scratch resistance of both products after baking and cooling.


The Rustoleum resisted better against scratching.

The bare stripe on the Rustoleum was from the wire rack the light was dried and baked on. The bottom could be resprayed and baked, but it is getting covered in 3M Dual lock so not worth the effort for me.
 
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