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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just looking for some feedback as I struggle to make up my mind. I have read the threads on each individual bike, but wondering if people have ridden a couple, few, or all.
Budget is $5-6k. I am 6'1 and 165-175#

What am I missing below

Intense Sniper Trail Pro

Pros:
Second best component set up behind Signal Peak
XO1 Eagle Cassette
Decent Wheelset I can sell
Lightest Dropper
Great HTA and Reach numbers on a large
Lightest bike option as stock?
Two bottle mounts inside frame
XT brakes
Good looking

Cons:
Frame flex at the top of the rear triangle

Spot Ryve 115 5 Star

Pros:
Decent build kit
Enve bar
160mm Revive dropper
Living link platform
Supporting local CO company
Great geo, similar to the Sniper
Sexy

Cons:
Less than stellar wheels
2 water bottle mounts, but 1 is under downtube
SRAM Brakes

Orbea OIZ TR

Pros:
Almost identical build kit to Spot
XT brakes
Lockouts
Possibly lightest?
Custom if possible
2 well placed bottle mounts in frame
Sexy

Cons:
HTA angle is steeper and Reach is shorter than Spot and Sniper and thats w/ a 90mm stem
Narrow bar
Meh wheels that are the narrowest

Signal Peak

Pros:
Best build kit (Full XX1)
Carbon wheels
Fox dropper
Cheapest
2 bottle mounts

Cons:
Heavy, not a lot of room to upgrade to save weight
Similar HTA and Reach to the OIZ
SRAM brakes
Least best good looking (don't want to offend it)


Golden is about 2.5 hrs away so I could demo the Spot.
SLC is about 6 hrs away so that would be a push.
There is an Orbea dealer about an hour away, but don't know about demos

-I will probably upgrade the wheels on any of the choices although the Signal Peak comes with a decent set.
-Brakes might become XTR on any build except the Signal Peak
-Cranks will eventually be swapped on all, but the SP
-Good chance handlebar will be swapped on the Sniper and OIZ

-The Spot not having two in frame mount is a pretty big bummer. I would probably own one if it did.

-The flex of the Sniper is concerning as I haven't heard anything negative about the other bikes yet as far as functionality and durability

I am sure I am forgetting some things, but after looking at these bikes for a few weeks I am maybe leaning towards...I don't know.
 

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Do you want to race the bike primarily or ride it fast and then do a few races a year casually? Remember also that drivetrain and wheels are easy upgrades. So if you don't like them they can be changed some money. Frame, Geometry and pedaling efficiency cannot be changed. The geo is off or the bike does not pedal well you will never fix that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Didn’t know where the best place to post this would be

I want to race this mostly. Weekly short races with a few 50+ mile races a year

Not considering the others because they are expensive, don’t want to deal with the Brain, or a broken bike
 

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They are all about the same price. I love my epic and really like what the brain does for it. A few friends have Blur's and like them too.

I race my epic in short ride and 50 milers too. Also consider the Scott Spark RC and possible closeouts on the 2019 trek top fuel. The newer 2020 top fuels gained some weight.
 

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Guy I race with was showing me how much side-to-side frame flex his Sniper has, quite a lot, and I don't think anything was broken, but he is quite fast on it. I'b be aware of that when looking at those.
 

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I am Walt
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Guy I race with was showing me how much side-to-side frame flex his Sniper has, quite a lot, and I don't think anything was broken, but he is quite fast on it. I'b be aware of that when looking at those.
That's why I decided against a Sniper, even though I really like it.
 

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The Sniper only takes 1 water bottle inside the triangle, and unless something has changed since last year, there are no mounts on the underside of the downtube for a second cage.
Go check some recent posts in the Sniper thread... they have two bottle mounts inside the triangle. Both on downtube. May only be L and XL frames.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah the Sniper flex is a bummer. If that didn’t exist I would probably have bought it by now. It just seems like each of these bikes is so close to being perfect with just one thing being off for me. I think spot is leading the way even though 1 bottle mount in the frame is a downer
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Joe,

I don’t think those bikes are even close to the same price. To get a model in the price range I listed you drop about a full level on SC, Yeti, Spesh, Scott etc. While components can be easily and cheaply swapped, I am not going to swap my suspension
 

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I’m not sure why you think the Signal Peak is heavy, frame weight is the same as the Sniper, weight difference is in components and under/over reporting by mfg.

If the Sniper didn’t flex, I’d be riding one. If I was a racer and wanted to spend a bunch more money, I’d get a Blur or similar.

If you want a trail bike that’ll crossover for racing, the Signal Peak is a nice bike. No complaints, I ride mine a fair bit. I’m 200# and ride the SP on rugged terrain at speed, and it is not flexy.

If you’re really serious about racing, I’d get a serious race bike.

If you’re more of a trail rider who wants to race once in a while, wants a more advanced suspension design, I’d look at the new Ripley or maybe the Trance 29
 

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Joe,

I don't think those bikes are even close to the same price. To get a model in the price range I listed you drop about a full level on SC, Yeti, Spesh, Scott etc. While components can be easily and cheaply swapped, I am not going to swap my suspension
Buy the best frame set you can get 5-6k. GX vs X01 is minor.
 

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Just put on my light bicycles carbon wheels, rocket Ron rear racing ray front. Other mods bikeyoke revive 125, wtb carbon rail seat, xpedo ti pedals, 1295 cogset and chain. Garmin 520 and timbre bell medium frame. Weight now 23.08.

To legitimately get get a 4"-5" FS bike with a dropper, 120mm fork and 12sp drivetrain down to 23# is gonna cost some money and probably require some compromises.
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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To legitimately get get a 4"-5" FS bike with a dropper, 120mm fork and 12sp drivetrain down to 23# is gonna cost some money and probably require some compromises.
Yes, with a 120mm fork it's especially hard, easier with a 100mm 32 SC, this is why I build up frames and do not buy complete bikes. You will only achieve a target weight if you control each and every component going onto the bike.

That said, handlebar/stem (like an integrated syncros unit), seatpost (even still keeping a dropper), grips, wheels (like the ultralight T800 rims and DT240 hubs) are likely places to save weight, it won't save much with a 34 on the front, but probably enough to get it sub 24, very expensive though.
 

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Some might consider a few of those compromises. ;-)

Plus we're talking about large frames here.
before the LB wheels I was at 24.33. The wheels are really light and hoping they hold up. Last bike I had Nox teocallis also with 240 hubs and they help up under my weight perfectly. If not, will have to add a bit of weight. Honestly wasn't shooting for 23 lbs and surprised the bike ended up there. Was thrilled the bike was under 25 out of the box. Other than the wheels, I don't feel like anything on the bike is fragile. I'm around 150-155 and loving the 120mm of travel.

on the large frame point, a buddy is shopping bikes now and would be a large. what kind of weight does that typically add? Didn't think it was much with carbon.
 
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